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Andrew Grima Unique Citrine Diamond and 18 Karat Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring 1973

About the Item

A faceted oval citrine, diamond and engraved 18 karat gold cocktail ring, by Andrew Grima, 1973. Signed Grima. Stamped with maker's mark AGLtd. London hallmark date letter "S" for 1973. This British modern cocktail ring showcases a large-size faceted oval citrine gemstone, expertly chosen to radiate a warm golden glow that captures the essence of elegance. The colorless diamond accents in the setting further accentuate the center gemstone, adding a touch of sparkle. The design brilliance which exemplified Grima's work is superbly demonstrated in this ring by the way the citrine is ingeniously wrapped with a single strand of 18-karat gold textured wire, which allows the center stone to shine from all angles. This ring is an excellent example of the originality and creativity that marked the cohort of independent British jewelers, mainly working in London, who transformed jewelry design after World War II. Grima perfected the art of casting directly from nature and everyday objects. He was also interested in letting the natural beauty of the stone remain the primary focus of his designs, sometimes avoiding the use of any metal and using diamonds sparingly, and sometimes he added a textured gold setting to his pieces that became part of his trademark style. Andrew Grima led the design revolution in jewelry during the 1960s and 1970s. He had studied mechanical engineering and then joined his then father-in-law’s jewelry business, HJ Company in 1946. He started his own business in 1951, and eventually employed several dozen jewelers. He never trained as a jeweler. In 1966, Grima was the first and only jewelry designer to win the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design; in the same year, he was awarded the Queen’s Award for Export. He was awarded the Royal Warrant in 1970. Grima won 12 DeBeers International Diamond awards and became a Freeman and then Liveryman of the Goldsmiths’ Company. Grima's jewelry can be found in numerous important private collections, including that of Queen Elizabeth II as well as members of her family, and in the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths in London, among others. Grima died on December 26, 2007.
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