Art Deco Sapphire And Diamond Cross Over Ring In Platinum Circa 1930

Beautiful opal and diamond ring by Hancocks, set to the centre with an oval opal cabochon weighing 2.95 carats and with attractive play of colour claw set between diamond shoulders s...

An Art Deco citrine brooch by Cartier, circa 1930. The brooch is designed as an oval of golden round cut citrines interspersed with white old cut diamonds. A tapering line of channel...

A fabulous Art Deco ‘Un Cercle’ clip brooch by Van Cleef and Arpels c.1931, the brooch of open circular form set throughout with brilliant cut diamonds, embellished to each side with baguette diamonds and to the centre front with an angular geometric motif channel set with baguette and brilliant cut diamonds, the lower half with cut out details adding to the contrast between the curved and straight edges, all in platinum with a hinged opening, the top right quarter folding forwards to allow the brooch to be clipped in place. This is an iconic VCA design that has featured in books and exhibitions on the jewellery of this prestigious Maison. An archival advert for ‘Un Cercle’ shows how versatile the clip is, the clever mechanism allowing it to be pinned easily to hats, clothing and even an evening bag. Anywhere you need a touch of pure glamour, pin the ‘Circle’ and it is instantly elevated. Maker Van Cleef & Arpels Period Circa 1931 Origin French Gemstones 14 x baguette diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 1.2cts 81 x brilliant cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 6.4cts Setting Platinum signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Bte SGDC numbered and with workshop mark for Rubel Freres and French assay mark Weight 23 grams Dimensions 4.9cm / 1.9” in diameter 0.5cm / 0.2” wide at narrowest point tapering to 1.1cm / 0.43” at widest point Condition Very fine Literature & Exhibitions See ‘Set in Style – The Jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels’, Sarah D. Coffin p.225 for an image of this brooch design alongside an archival advert for it. Directors Notes The names of Jean and Robert Rubel are relatively unknown today but during the 1920s and 30s they ran one of the most important jewellery workshops in Paris. Responsible for creating many beautiful and iconic jewels of the period, predominantly for Van Cleef & Arpels, the firm was one of the ‘unsung heroes’ of French haute joaillerie in the first half of the 20th Century. Before emigrating from Hungary to France, the brothers had run a successful jewellery shop in their native Budapest. They settled in Paris and opened a workshop at 22 rue Vivienne, not far from the Place Vendôme, in 1915. They gradually built their business and reputation for fine quality craftsmanship and within ten years they were working for some of the most prestigious Parisian jewellers. One such client was Van Cleef & Arpels who began working with Rubel Frères sometime around 1923 and the two firms would go on to form a close working relationship that would last for twenty years. They remained in Paris, quietly creating their masterpieces for sale in the Place Vendome boutiques, until 1939. It was then that they were offered the opportunity to move to America where Van Cleef & Arpels had recently opened offices. The two brothers were asked to set up and supervise a workshop in New York which would make the Van Cleef jewellery...

A beautiful and elegant French-cut diamond and sapphire eternity ring by Hancocks, set alternatively with one rectangular French cut diamond followed by two square French cut sapphir...

A beautiful vintage diamond and platinum ring c.1930s, centred with a wonderfully unusual mixed cut diamond, the rectangular cushion shape with a combination of brilliant and step cu...

A beautiful Edwardian pearl and diamond ring by Gattle, c.1910, the ring vertically set to the front with two brownish-purple round natural saltwater pearls between tapered shoulders set with old cut diamonds all in millegrain settings to an ornately engraved platinum mount with square section band. This elegant and sophisticated ring is set with two lovely pearls of unusual colour with attractive overtones, they are perfectly complimented by the old cut diamonds sprinkled down the sides and the foliate engraving on the ring. Maker Gattle Period Edwardian, circa 1910 Origin America Gemstones 2 x natural saltwater pearls 7.8mm with certificate from the Netherlands Gem Laboratory 24 x old cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 0.4cts Setting Platinum signed Gattle Weight 5.6 grams Dimensions UK finger size J 1/2, US size 5 Head 16mm tall x 17mm wide inclusive of shoulders Condition Very fine Directors Notes New York jeweller E.M. Gattle &Co. might not be a well known name today but during the first decades of the 20th Century they produced jewellery that rivalled some of the best names in American jewellery at that time such as Tiffany & Co., Marcus & Co. and Raymond Yard. Emanuel Gattle was born in Plattsburg in the far north of New York State in 1858 and left home for the bright lights of the city at just 19. Four years later he opened his eponymous jewellery store at the corner of Broadway and 27th Street. Little information or jewels from his early years survives but he was obviously successful and moved premises to 5th Avenue in 1900. It is his Edwardian and Art Deco jewellery that cemented his reputation and as one of New York’s finest jewellers. Images from the company’s catalogues of ‘The Gattle Building’ show a very large and impressive premises and the pictures of jewels that fill the catalogues pages illustrate a huge range of designs and styles. The Gattle Book from 1914 talks about their re-modelling services for your “old fashioned and discarded pieces of jewellery” and advises clients to send in lists of the pieces they no longer wear in order for Gattle to recommend ways to re-use the stones in more contemporary designs. They go on to state "we import our own gems, design our own mountings, and Gattle Jewelry is developed under the supervision of our own experts." Innovative designs, quality gems and materials and excellent craftsmanship combine to create exceptional pieces. Jewels such as Art Deco wide strap bracelets set with substantial diamonds and emeralds, diamond and jade bracelets, coloured stone rings...

An Art Deco sapphire and diamond oval plaque ring, with an Edwardian-cut diamond, in the centre of a decorative openwork cluster of round brilliant and Edwardian-cut diamonds, in mil...

Marquise ring circa 1920-1930 in platinum set with calibrated diamonds and sapphires. This ring with a typical geometric pattern from the 1920s-1930s is adorned with 3 larger diamond...

An Art Deco ring with sapphires and diamonds in platinum, ca. 1930s. The four sapphire carrés in the centre are flanked by two ...

One Art Deco emerald and diamond platinum ring featuring one oval cabochon cut emerald weighing 15 ct. Enhanced by 30 single...

Art Deco Blue Sapphire And Diamond Ring handcrafted In Platinum. The details are as follows : Diamond weight : 1.40 carat approx...

An art deco platinum ring with sapphires Beautiful antique cocktail ring, created in America during the art deco period, back i...