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Couture DiorDesigner WesternGermany MaxMuller TealCrystal GoldGilt Textural Ring
About the Item
With a cross-over ring interior and textured exterior like raw silk that matches Christian Dior rings marked "Chr. Dior Germany" from the late-1950s and 1960s, this bold modernist yellow-gold gilt custom-made cocktail ring features a teal green stunningly-sparkly glass crystal that was masterfully foil-backed and bezel-set by Max Muller (1907-1991).
In 1946 when he was the most famous of the war-displaced Gablonz costume-jewelry makers from the Jizera Mountains in Czechoslovakia, he re-opened his design business near Kaufbeuren, Western Germany, where until 1987 he created original mostly unsigned works, such as exclusive pieces for Dior since 1955.
By mid-century Muller became internationally known for his historic replicas for the film industry. So today, some of the largest collections of his extremely rare work were acquired by female movie stars, such as Sophia Lauren who wore pieces by him at her wedding. His use of only the highest quality of crystal pastes and complexity of colorful settings is on par for that time period with U.S.-based designer Henry Schreiner or Paris-based Roger Jean Pierre.
This sculptural ring that appears chiseled around the sides is also finely textured with a linear pattern that shifts direction to echo the shifting direction of curvilinear gouges.
With a loupe, some minor losses of gilt and top edges of the crystal can be found, but they do not detract from the views while worn when they are imperceptible. We think this only makes the faux gem look more like a real stone with microscopic inclusions.
We could not take our eyes off of the vibrant crystal on this ring that is the same unusual color that can be found in some of Muller's well known works, such as for Marlene Dietrich. This was our first clue before we found the matching Dior key elements, which can not be attributed to other jewelry designers.
Please see our other fashion listings for Muller jewelry from Kaufbeuren, Western Germany, to compare some of his other designs that also feature shimmering crystals in dramatic yet minimal settings.
- Creator:Max Müller Kaufbeuren
- Ring Size:6.5 US, Not Resizable
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1955-1975
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244220061592
About the Seller
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Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
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- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
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