French Ruby and Diamond Ring

This late Victorian 18K gold double snake ring, set with a diamond and a ruby, was created in England in 1892. It is designed as two engraved snake heads, each with an old European-c...

Composed of silver, lacquer and reverse painted and engraved crystal, this exceptional ring was a collaboration of two French modernist artists, Després and Cornault. The ring centers a glass crystal prism above a polychrome abstract-design painting in miniature by Cornault, mounted by Després within a silver and black lacquer surround, flanked by stepped and incised chevron form shoulders with subtle dark patination. Uniting an intriguing abstract painting with the geometry of interlocking planes and layered strata, this rare ring is powerful work of painterly and sculptural modernism. Product Details: Item #: R-21132 Artist: J Després and E Cornault Country: France Circa: 1930 Size: 6.75 (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information) Materials: Glace peinte/Reverse-painted crystal; Black lacquer; Silver Signed: "J. Desprès", "JD" maker's mark, French guarantee stamp for silver. Provenance: Given by the artist to his niece, and by descent in her family. Exhibition History: "Étienne Cournault (1891-1948)" at Musées de la Cour d’Or à Metz, 25 June to 24 October 1994. This ring was presented as number 94 in the exhibition catalogue. Literature: This ring appears in "Jean Després; Jeweller, Maker and Designer of the Machine Age", Thames & Hudson, 2009, by Melissa Gabardi, on p. 197. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: This important ring is one of a small group of “Bijoux-Glaces” or “Mirror Jewels”. These jewels represent the collaboration between two French Modernist artists, Étienne Cournault (1891-1948) and Jean Després (1889-1980). Cournault was from Lorraine, and had been educated at L’Ecole de Nancy in graphic and applied arts. He was active in Paris as a painter, draughtsman, and print maker in the 1920s. Moreover, he was the premier practitioner of the rarified technique of reverse painting on crystal, which he elevated from a traditional decorative art by creating intriguing miniature paintings of Surrealist and Cubist inspiration. Cournault met Després, an accomplished silversmith who moved in the circle of Modligiani, de Chirico, Braque and Signac, when Jacques Doucet commissioned the artists to complete an ornate metal table...

Ring in 18kt yellow gold set with one cabochon cut ruby 1.74 cts and 32 diamonds 0.85 cts Size 54        

The buckle ring has been seen in jewelry since the Victorian era, symbolizing unending love. This 14k rose gold pinky ring features a retro version of the motif—with a streamline design that brings to mind the era of Cadillac cars and luxury train travel. Eleven table cut square natural rubies create the rectangular buckle; six round brilliant cut diamonds are set in white gold and cascade through the center of the buckle, offsetting the warm tones of the ring with a cool line. When viewed from the side, the profile of the diamond setting is elevated as it integrates into the buckle. The rose gold and rubies compliment each other beautifully in this sweet, retro pinky ring...