Aspen - Choker Necklaces

Exquisite woven natural Oriental Pearl, Platinum and Diamond Collier de Chien, Cartier, New York, signed and numbered, Edwardian, circa 1910. Seventy-nine diamonds of high color (approximately G/H) and high clarity (approximately VS) describe a buckle and clasp motif for the front of the neck and finished with a diamond clasp. The estimated diamond weight is 1.65 cts. The clasp is fitted with an invisible spring mechanism which will expand (or contract) the length 3/8th of an inch. The total length of the Collier de Chien (dog collar) is 13 inches expandable to 13 3/8th inches. The width varies between .50 inches and .75 inches. The piece has a weight of 22 grams. The natural pearls which are woven into a complex but subtle pattern consists of sizes ranging from 1.7 to 2.7 mm. The pearls, all with clean surfaces (or skins), are well matched in their luminescence and color. The collar is in fine condition and was may have been recently restrung. While it would not be an easy alteration, it could be lengthened (with matching natural pearls) or shortened. We would quote a price, and the time involved, if such an alteration is requested. Notes from the archives: Several reasons place the time for creation of this Cartier piece to be quite early in the firm's history in New York. While it was Louis who put in place the plans for Cartier, New York, which began in late 1909 on lower Fifth Avenue, it was Pierre who actually operated the New York store just as Jacques was the brother selected for London with Louis holding down Paris of course. Since roughly 1903, Edwardian jewels emphasized designs that combined platinum, diamonds and natural pearls so that by 1910 such examples were de rigueur for a proper lady. For example, Nadelhoffer (p. 49) shows an oriental natural pearl dog collar done in 1908 by the Paris shop for the Princess de Ganay in which the weaving is quite similar to the woven seed pearl work in our piece. Similar to most Cartier dog...

Antique brooch displaying a wonderful array of enameling. It is pinned on a woven pearl contemporary dog collar which has a gold clasp. It can be worn both as the center to this collar or removed and worn separately. The woven pearl collar is 2.75 inches wide and 13.5 inches in length. We can lengthen the pearl collar if needed. "Je Bless et Je Gueris" (I wound and I heal) is written on cupid's shield, there are two kissing doves, and at cupid's feet is his quiver of arrows. Surrounding this portrait enamel scene is a basse-taille enamel which is done to emulate small pearls. Framing this most charming scene is vibrant cobalt blue guilloche enamel. Many enamel brooches of the period commemorated lost love...

18K yellow gold necklace possessing fine white brilliant cut diamonds and fine natural vivid blue sapphires. The 10 diamonds are estimated to weigh 1.15 cts. These well matched and...

Van Cleef & Arpels gold and diamond choker necklace. This classic neckpiece fits just at the collar. It is 15 inches long and terminates with a 18 diamond studded clasp. The diam...

Andrew Clunn necklace centering fine natural coral surrounded by white diamonds. The diamonds are all well cut and estimated to weigh 1.9 cts., they are all near colorless, G, and v...

Natural amethyst necklace of deep purple color, the 66 amethysts are well matched and are 6.2 to 6.4 mm. in size. The necklace is 16.5 inches long with a fish hook type gold color c...

18K unusual and fine link gold chain, 18 inches long and weighing 62.6 grams. The link is a bit more unusual than we see of this type, and the barrel clasp is well done. It is an ea...

Platinum diamond Riviere necklace possessing well matched, well cut, fine diamonds totaling approximately 13 cts. These 89 brilliant cut diamonds, ranging in size from .15 cts. up to .45 cts., are all near colorless (H) and very slightly included (VS). The fancy clasp...

Antique guillochee red and white opaque enamel charming necklace with old cut diamonds and natural pearls. There is a flip up/down bale so that a pendant or drop can be suspended fr...

18K gold classic late 19th century necklace. 14 inches in length, worn at the neckline. This piece is easy to wear and very distinctive. Notice how well this solid but delicate ne...

In the style and workmanship, of the great designer Marina B. (but not signed), this striking necklace centers an important fine natural emerald weighs approximately 25+ cts. This ...

Moonstone of exceptional quality amounting to approximately 16 cts. (112 stones) are set in this 18K necklace which has fine white diamonds set in small gold buttercups. These 196 b...