Black Cord With Ruby Beads And Tahitian Pearl

Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.

As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”

Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.

The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”

Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”

That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”

Find Ella Gafter earrings, rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Also called Y necklaces as they are designed to hang a certain way, vintage drop necklaces are striking and adaptable. They can enhance everything from a casual sweater-and-jeans combo to an elegant heels-and-evening-dress pairing.

Adornment is an ancient human practice, with archeologists identifying early jewelry made from bones, claws and shells. As technology has advanced, so too have jewelry designs and the design of necklaces, from the simple to the intricate.

Drop necklaces come from lariat-style necklaces, which are chain necklaces that end in a tassel or pendant. A drop necklace’s design, meanwhile, is long with open ends, and it usually does not have a clasp. It consists of a single chain that wraps around the neck and a centerpiece — sometimes featuring a diamond or pearls — that hangs down to the middle of the chest. Drop necklaces frequently come in lengths from 16 to 20 inches, with the vertical lines making them appear longer than other necklaces of the same length.

Drop necklaces are extremely versatile, able to be worn knotted, draped or looped. They can be chunky statement pieces or thin, minimal designs. The range of drop necklaces that can be found on 1stDibs can accentuate the plunging necklines of modern looks or add flair to a basic ensemble.