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Essex Intaglio

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Ring
Located in Napoli, IT
Past Sights Beautiful example of Victorian period Essex Crystal reverse intaglio ring depicting
Category

Antique 1860s European Victorian Signet Rings

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold

Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch
Located in London, GB
background in 18kt gold. Essex Crystal or reverse intaglio are made from a cabochon (domed) crystal which
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Dog Ring
Located in Firenze, IT
The domed round shape rock crystal reverse intaglio painted to depict a Yorkshire Terrier. Mounted
Category

Antique 1890s English Victorian Dome Rings

Materials

Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

1940s Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Yellow Gold Tie Clip
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive vintage Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 14 karat yellow gold 'sailboat' tie clip
Category

Vintage 1940s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Essex Reverse Intaglio Black Scottie Platinum Iridium Diamonds Ring
Located in Berkeley, CA
The intricate detail of this hand painted reverse intaglio Scottie dog shows cute little ears, a
Category

Early 20th Century American Victorian Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Equestrian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Antique 14K Gold Brooch Pendant
Located in New York, NY
Fabulous Edwardian Period Equestrian Essex Crystal pendant/brooch in the shape of a beautifully
Category

Early 20th Century British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Edwardian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal 14K gold nautical bracelet & broach set
Located in Surfside, FL
Edwardian square Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal handpainted nautical bracelet & broach set, in 14k
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

14k Gold

Late Victorian 18k Gold Intaglio Essex Crystal Cuff Links with Birds
Located in Monroe Township, NJ
links. Crafted from luxurious 18k gold, each cuff link features a beautifully detailed Intaglio Essex
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 9 karat yellow gold 'dog' cocktail ring; part of
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Late Victorian Dome Rings

Materials

Crystal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Horse Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a horses
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 9 karat yellow gold cocktail ring; part of our
Category

Antique 1890s English Victorian Dome Rings

Materials

Crystal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and 18k Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel, framed within a plain and unembellished 18k yellow gold
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau 14kt yellow gold Essex Crystal Brooch
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Braintree, GB
perfectly. Essex Crystal: The center of the brooch features an Essex crystal, a reverse intaglio carved and
Category

Vintage 1910s American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Horse Essex Crystal Earrings Enamel 14 Karat Gold Equestrian Racing
Located in New York, NY
. Essex Crystal The colloquially termed ‘Essex Crystal,’ or reverse carved intaglio is to many an
Category

Antique 19th Century British Victorian Stud Earrings

Materials

Crystal, Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold

Recent Sales

Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch
Located in London, GB
background in 18kt gold. Essex Crystal or reverse intaglio are made from a cabochon (domed) crystal which
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Bird Floral Motif Necklace
Located in Houston, TX
Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal intaglio Bird floral motif necklace.
Category

Antique 17th Century British Victorian More Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin, Austria
Located in Dusseldorf, NRW
Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin 14k rose gold (580/1000
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Austrian Victorian Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Terrier Locket
Located in New York, NY
An adorable Victorian Essex crystal reverse intaglio locket. This 18k gold locket features a
Category

Antique 1880s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Exquisite Essex Crystal and Diamond Ring
Located in New York, NY
intaglio in Essex crystal. The process to make a piece like this is a long and highly skilled effort of
Category

Antique 1850s British Early Victorian More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal German Shepherd Cufflinks
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A pair of reverse intaglio Essex crystal cufflinks, each depicting a German Shepherd dog. The
Category

Antique Early 1900s Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Horse Ring
Located in Holland, PA
14k Yellow Gold Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Ring. With domed round shape rock
Category

Antique 1880s British More Rings

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Antique Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Spaniel Gold Stick Pin
Located in Toronto, ON
18K Yellow Gold and Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Spaniel Dog Stick Pin, C.1910. Tan, White and
Category

Early 20th Century Brooches

Reverse Intaglio Crystal Essex Crystal Dog Brooch Locket, circa 1880
Located in Toronto, ON
Antique English reverse intaglio crystal dog brooch, C.1880. The 15K brooch of circular shape with
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian More Jewelry

Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Jack Russell Stick Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
is remarkably lifelike. The piece is made using a complex reverse intaglio technique. It was
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Gold

Art Deco Essex Crystal Terrier Cufflinks
By Glorious Antique Jewelry Collection
Located in Stamford, CT
Known as reverse crystal intaglios or Essex crystals, this pair, carved backwards into the back of
Category

Vintage 1920s British Art Deco Cufflinks

Materials

Agate, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Fox Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex
Category

Antique 19th Century British Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a pair of 'English
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold

Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
an oval form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex
Category

Antique 1880s Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Essex Crystal 14 Karat Yellow Gold Equestrian Reverse Head Cufflinks
Located in Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire
These Cufflinks feature an equestrian design with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex Crystal
Category

Antique 1890s Cufflinks

Materials

14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Diamond and Essex Crystal, Yellow Gold Dog Brooch - Victorian
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional Victorian diamond, essex crystal and 9k yellow gold reverse intaglio dog brooch
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, 9k Gold

1890s Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Dress Studs
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
with an exceptional circular hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal, each depicting a different
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Vanity Items

Materials

Yellow Gold

Antique Gold Reverse Painted Essex Crystal Link Bracelet Showing Hunting Scenes
Located in Princeton, NJ
bracelet was extremely popular. -14 karat yellow gold -Reverse painted Essex crystal intaglios -Circa
Category

Early 20th Century English Late Victorian Link Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Sapphire and Diamond Yellow Gold 'Brussels Griffon' Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
a feature hand painted Essex crystal reverse intaglio, depicting a 'Brussels Griffon' dog. The
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

Fine Gold Reverse Intaglio Painted Crystal Pendant, circa 1880
Located in Toronto, ON
Very Fine 19th century Gold Reverse Intaglio painted Crystal `Essex Crystal’ large Pendant, English
Category

Antique 19th Century Pendant Necklaces

Victorian 18K Gold Fox Terrier Reverse Carved Intaglio Rock Crystal Stick Pin
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
reverse carved intaglio (also known as a reverse painted intaglio, or ‘Essex crystal’). A round cabochon
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Westminster Terrier Stuart Crystal Ring "Best in Show"
Located in Stamford, CT
look as if he were saying "what did I do now?" The ring, an Essex Crystal or Reverse Crystal Intaglio
Category

20th Century More Rings

Materials

Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Victorian Jockey Essex Rock Crystal Intaglio Bracelet, circa 1895
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A delightful Victorian Jockey Essex Rock Crystal Intaglio Bracelet, ca. 1895 The bracelet features
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Late Victorian Link Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Art Deco Reverse Crystal Intaglio 'Essex Crystal' Dachshund
Located in Stamford, CT
guilty about leaving. This is the incredible art of reverse crystal intaglio also known as essex crystal
Category

Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Stick Pin
Located in Holland, PA
14k Yellow Gold Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Stick Pin. With domed round shape
Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Antique 14k Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Painted Intaglio Horse Charm Medallion
Located in New York, NY
borders the crystal. A true collector's piece for those that collect reverse intaglio Essex crystal
Category

Antique 1890s European Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold

JE Caldwell & Co Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Brooch Pin
By J.E. Caldwell & Co.
Located in Holland, PA
14k Yellow Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Brooch Pin by JE Caldwell & Co. With domed
Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Gold Crop Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio, 14 carat yellow gold and 14 karat white gold 'riding
Category

Vintage 1920s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Terrier Pendant
Located in Stamford, CT
containment. Essex crystal or reverse crystal intaglio, another name for the art, was painstakingly hand made
Category

Antique 1880s Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, 15k Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog and Horse Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each cufflink consists of two Essex crystal panels
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Fox' Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a fox's
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Pheasant' Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a pheasant. The links
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Exceptional Essex Crystal English Bulldog Brooch Set With Diamonds & Sapphires
Located in Tampa, FL
This exceptional Essex crystal brooch features a hyper realistic reverse intaglio of an English
Category

Antique Late 19th Century European Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Rock Crystal, Platinum, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Reverse Crystal Intaglio West Highland Terrier Ring
Located in Stamford, CT
look as if he were saying "what did I do now?" The ring, an Essex Crystal or Reverse Crystal Intaglio
Category

20th Century Fashion Rings

Materials

Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Jack Russell Dog Stick Pin 15 Karat Gold & Mother Of Pearl
Located in Preston, Lancashire
the gold circular mount. These stunning reverse intaglio crystal or Essex crystal pins are becoming
Category

Vintage 1920s British Art Deco Brooches

Materials

15k Gold

Essex Crystal Gold Horse Cufflinks
Located in New York, NY
Fabulous pair of 14 carat yellow gold horse Essex, or reverse intaglio cufflinks. Very
Category

Vintage 1930s American Cufflinks

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

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Mid-Century Yellow Gold Dog Charm Bracelet
Located in Stamford, CT
Vintage 1960's handmade triple spiral link 14k yellow gold charm bracelet with five detailed dog charms; retriever, setter, shepherd, collie. 7.5 inches in length. 14k yellow gold ...
Category

Mid-20th Century Charm Bracelets

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique von Aminoff Intaglio Signet Ring solid 18K Gold Carnelian ØUS11.75/7.5gr
Located in SE
Signet Intaglio Ring featuring banded / two-layered Carnelian (type of Agate) stone with the heraldic depiction of a Coat of Arms of Russian / Swedish / Finnish noble family von Amin...
Category

Antique 1890s Finnish Empire Signet Rings

Materials

Carnelian, 18k Gold

Vintage 14K Gold Hand Painted Reverse Intaglio Fox Horse Dog Watch Bracelet
Located in Montclair, NJ
This gorgeous vintage watch bracelet features wonderful portraits of a dog, fox and a jockey riding a horse done in a reversed intaglio technique. The bracelet also features a Swiss ...
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Wrist Watches

Materials

14k Gold

Berca Terrier Motif Reverse Crystal Diamond Yellow Gold One-of-a-Kind 1950s Ring
By BERCA
Located in Valenza, IT
Essex Glasses or Reverse Painting Under Crystal featuring a Fox Terrier in a 0.22Kt diamond and yellow gold signet or cocktail ring setting. The multicolor, vivid painting creates an...
Category

Vintage 1950s Italian Modern Signet Rings

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, White Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Seal Sunflower Sunburst Motto Agate Bloodstone Gold Pendant Italy
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Wonderful example of an Empire gold seal with an Italian motto engraved in an oval bloodstone: "giamai ingrato". The intaglio depicts a field with a sunflower, a river or a lake, a s...
Category

Antique 1810s Italian Empire Desk Accessories

Materials

Agate, Gold

Victorian 19.30 Ct. Madeira Citrine Diamond Pearl Pendant
Located in Napoli, IT
Rare Find This authentic Victorian period pendant is 1880 ca. Very pretty and distinctive from the period designed with a gorgeous bow topping the oval shape main pendant of fine gem...
Category

Antique 1880s European Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Citrine, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Silver

Victorian Substantial Hand-Carved Carnelian Seal Pointer Dog Fob Pendant
Located in Narberth, PA
A fob is an adornment or a seal that hangs from the ribbon or chain of a pocket watch. Its purpose is to decorate or add weight to the watch chain itself making it easier for the wat...
Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Carnelian, 14k Gold

Antique Georgian Star Sapphire Diamond Guilloche Enamel 14K Gold Ring Circa 1830
Located in New York, NY
Stunning Georgian Period cabochon star sapphire, diamond, cobalt blue guilloche enamel 14K gold ring. Circa 1830 This beautiful antique ring dates from the George IV/Regency Period. ...
Category

Antique 19th Century Georgian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Star Sapphire, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold

1925s Art Deco 2 Carat Emeralds 2.20 Carat Diamonds Platinum Ring
Located in Poitiers, FR
Ring in platinum. Sublime art deco ring, its entire platinum setting is closed set on its top with a Colombian emerald- cut emerald and an antique- cut diamond. This duo of gems is s...
Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Platinum

Edwardian Ruby and Diamond Bombe Ring - Burma No Heat
Located in Hummelstown, PA
Crowned with a crystalline magenta red ruby, this lovely Edwardian bombe style ring boasts four rows of richly saturated calibre rubies divided by twinkling single cut diamonds that ...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

Van Cleef & Arpels Baguette Diamond Platinum Eternity Band Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Berlin, DE
Van Cleef & Arpels Baguette Diamond Platinum Eternity Band Ring 100% original product! Including certificate of authenticity. US Ring Size: 5 7/8
Category

20th Century Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Quartz 18 Karat Yellow Gold Fish Antique Cufflinks
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as link style cufflinks terminating with reverse carved Essex crystal quartz cabochons. Painted to depict various fish in oceanic scenes with waves, rocks, seaweed, and foli...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Victorian Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Quartz, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Georgian Cupid's Heart and Arrow Ring
Located in Hummelstown, PA
The most ubiquitous symbol of Georgian love was the heart, and still is even today. This romantic Georgian ring centers on a glinting rose-cut diamond heart, struck by Cupid's arrow,...
Category

Antique 1820s Unknown Georgian Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond

Rare circa 1900 Sterling Silver Diamond and Enamel Powder Compact with Lipstick
Located in GB
Wimbledon Furniture We are delighted to offer For sale this stunning circa 1900 French or Italian Sterling silver Diamond & Enamel powder compact with lipstick A very good looking a...
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Victorian Vanity Items

Materials

Sterling Silver, Enamel

Cartier Diamond Crossover Ring, French, circa 1970
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Cartier diamond crossover ring. Set with two drop shape brilliant cut diamonds, one D colour, VVS2 clarity, with a weight of 1.17 carats, the other D colour, VVS1 clarity, with a wei...
Category

Vintage 1970s French Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

CARTIER Serpenti Emerald Yellow Gold Vintage Snake Ring
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
This fabulous Cartier ring from the iconic Serpenti collection is crafted in 18k yellow gold and set with a pair of green round emerald eyes weighing an estimated 0.02 carats. Made i...
Category

Vintage 1970s Band Rings

Materials

Emerald, Yellow Gold

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Essex Intaglio For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate essex intaglio for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 14k Gold and Yellow Gold. Finding the perfect essex intaglio may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 20th Century. Creating a essex intaglio has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by J.E. Caldwell & Co. are consistently popular. A essex intaglio of any era or style can lend versatility to your look, but a version featuring Rock Crystal, from our inventory of 5, is particularly popular. See these pages for a cabochon iteration of this accessory, while there are also round cut cut and uncut cut versions available here, too. When shopping for a essex intaglio, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.

How Much is a Essex Intaglio?

The price for a essex intaglio starts at $950 and tops out at $7,200 with these brooches, on average, selling for $3,600.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.