Antique Tortoiseshell and Gold Butterfly Brooch
Located in Baltimore, MD
art butterfly brooch is also featured in Vivienne Becker's book Antique and 20th Century Jewelry
Garnet, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Gold
Aldo Cipullo for Cartier 18K Gold and Sodalite "Rounds" Necklace
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, p. 107. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: According to Renato Cipullo and
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$10,284
W 2.56 in D 1.86 in L 4.02 in
Antique Art Nouveau Buckle Peacock Feather Piel Frères Polychrome Enamel Brass
By Piel Frères
Located in Munich, Bavaria
executed by Piel Frères, Paris around 1900. An identical buckle is published in Vivienne Becker's book
Brass, Enamel
Jean Schlumberger (Book)
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
By Jean d'Ormesson, Charlotte Gere, Vivienne Becker, Jean Schlumberger & Diana Vreeland. This is a
Antique Austro-Hungarian Etruscan Revival Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Jewellery by Vivienne Becker and Victorian Jewelry Design by Charlotte Gere. Signed, Austro-Hungarian
18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
John Paul Cooper "The Kingfisher" Arts & Crafts Necklace
By John Paul Cooper
Located in London, GB
, rather than following the ideology of his contemporaries who worked mainly in silver, cf. Vivienne Becker
Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, Gold
Blue Green Tourmaline White Diamond Gold Double Stone Ring, Shimell & Madden
Located in Dallas, TX
Vivienne Becker captures the essence of the collection best, stating that Shimell and Madden is “Resolutely
Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold, Yell...
$1,575
W 0.26 in D 0.12 in L 0.32 in
Pink Sapphire White Diamond Yellow Gold Duo Stud Earrings, Shimell & Madden
Located in Dallas, TX
. Financial Times columnist Vivienne Becker captures the essence of the collection best, stating that Shimell
White Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Diamond, Multi-gemstone, 18k Gold, Yellow ...
$3,960Sale Price|20% Off
Brilliant Pink Sapphire White Diamond Yellow Gold Galaxy Ring, Shimell + Madden
Located in Dallas, TX
pieces of exactitude. Financial Times columnist Vivienne Becker captures the essence of the collection
Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold, 1...
$19,950
H 2.21 in W 2.21 in D 0.52 in
TIFFANY & CO. 1965 Aldo Cipullo Geometric Pendant Brooch 18Kt Gold & Chrysoprase
Located in Miami, FL
his own company as a freelance designer. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo
Chrysophrase, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$19,985 / set
D 0.38 in Dm 1.06 in
ALDO CIPULLO 1973 Buttons Knots Clips On Earrings In 18Kt Gold With Onyxes.
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Miami, FL
own company as a freelance designer. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making
Onyx, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$19,985 / set
H 1.49 in W 1.18 in
CARTIER 1972 Aldo Cipullo Earrings In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Rock Quartz & Onyx
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, Pp-136-137 for similar examples (see
Onyx, Quartz, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$28,500 / set
H 1.34 in W 1.26 in D 0.63 in
CARTIER 1973 By Aldo Cipullo Clips Earrings 18Kt Gold Rock Crystal & Carnelians
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, Pp-136-137 for
Carnelian, Rock Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$22,950 / set
H 1.5 in L 1.02 in
CARTIER 1969 Aldo Cipullo Clips Earrings In 18Kt Yellow Gold, Lapis & Diamonds
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, Pp-44-45 for
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$49,950
W 1.42 in L 6.75 in
CARTIER 1970 Aldo Cipullo Bracelet In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Lapis & VS Diamonds
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, Pp-176-178 for a similar example pictured
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$24,985
H 2.21 in W 2.21 in D 0.91 in
ALDO CIPULLO 1970 Maltese Pendant-Brooch In 18Kt Gold Diamonds & Lapis Lazuli
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Miami, FL
his own company as a freelance designer. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$85,950
W 1.46 in D 0.37 in L 22 in
Aldo Cipullo 1970 Graduated Necklace in 18kt Yellow Gold with Red Coral and Onyx
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Miami, FL
his own company as a freelance designer. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo
Coral, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$89,500
H 2.04 in L 16 in
Picchiotti Festoon Necklace In 18Kt Gold With 40.21 Ctw In Diamonds And Rubies
By Picchiotti
Located in Miami, FL
for excellence in the making of Fine Jewelry. Literature: Vivienne Becker. Picchiotti: The First
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
$23,500 / set
W 0.63 in D 0.45 in L 1.97 in
Picchiotti Dangle Drop Pearls Earrings 18Kt Gold 4.07 Ctw Diamonds And Emeralds
By Picchiotti
Located in Miami, FL
craftsmanship – and a grand passion for excellence in the making of Fine Jewelry. Literature: Vivienne Becker
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold,...
PICCHIOTTI Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Gold With 4.77 Ctw in Emeralds And Diamonds
By Picchiotti
Located in Miami, FL
: Vivienne Becker. Picchiotti: The First Fifty Years. 2022. For similar pieces illustrated. Note: Muzo is a
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
$29,985 / set
W 0.71 in L 2.17 in
Picchiotti Dangle Cluster Earrings in 18Kt Gold With 18.16 Ctw Diamonds & Pearls
By Picchiotti
Located in Miami, FL
the making of Fine Jewelry. Literature: Vivienne Becker. Picchiotti: The First Fifty Years. 2022. For
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Plique Ajour Enamel Old Mine Diamond Pearl Lady Wings Pendant Brooch
Located in Antwerp, BE
depicted on picture # 30 in the book "Art Nouveau Jewelry" by Vivienne Becker (1985, Thames and Hudson
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Damascene Shakudo Nature Miniatures 18 Karat Gold Link Bracelet
Located in Antwerp, BE
inspired Gilbert & Sullivan’s comic opera ‘The Mikado’. See Vivienne Becker’s ‘Antique & Twentieth Century
American Art Nouveau Gold Lion Cufflinks
Located in New York, NY
male and female lion heads in relief. Pictured in “Art Nouveau Jewelry”, by Vivienne Becker, E. P
14k Gold
Plisson et Hartz Art Nouveau Diamond Gold Woman Flower Sculpture Scarf Ring
By Plisson et Hartz
Located in London, GB
, 1053, 1056, 1057,1058, 1059, 1060 & 1063. Vivienne Becker, Art Nouveau Jewelry, London 1985 (reprint
Diamond, 18k Gold
French Art Nouveau Plique-à-Jour Enamel Diamond Gold Maiden Necklace
Located in New York, NY
. Original retail box. Circa 1900. Pictured in “Art Nouveau Jewelry”, by Vivienne Becker, E. P. Dutton
White Diamond, 18k Gold
Rare Wilhelm Fühner Pforzheim Arts & Crafts Necklace
Located in Toronto, ON
. Item Weight: 11.53 grams. Lit.: Art Nouveau Jewelry. Vivienne Becker. Pp 160 and 235. Becker records
French Art Nouveau Opal Plique-à-Jour Enamel and Gold Ring
Located in New York, NY
Demand, Paris, 2015, page 33. And, Art Nouveau Jewelry, Vivienne Becker, E.P Dutton, 1985, plates 120
Opal, 18k Gold
PLISSON & HARTZ Art Nouveau Pendant/ Brooch
Located in London, GB
Vivienne Becker mentions in Art Nouveau Jewelry, Plisson et Hartz were an important jewellery firm who
Diamond, 18k Gold
White Gold Dragon Bracelet by Otto Jakob 2012
By Otto Jakob
Located in London, GB
" wide Extremely fine See The Impossible Collection of Jewelry by Vivienne Becker Showcases 100
White Gold
René Foy Art Nouveau The Vestal Virgins Brooch Pendant
Located in London, GB
, Vivienne Becker, 1985, p. 219, pl. 119. The Paris Salons 1895-1914, Jewellery, Alastair Duncan, 1994, Vol 1
Diamond, 18k Gold
Bluish Green Tourmaline White Diamond Handmade Gold Ring, Shimell & Madden
Located in Dallas, TX
Vivienne Becker captures the essence of the collection best, stating that Shimell and Madden is “Resolutely
Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold, Yell...
F. RASUMNY Gold Cyrano de Bergerac Pendant
Located in Amsterdam, NL
Nouveau Jewelry Vivienne Becker 1985, p.231 & 236 Art Nouveau, The French Aesthetic Victor Arwas, 2002
18k Gold
CARTIER 1970 Aldo Cipullo Door Knocker Earrings IN 18Kt Gold With Onyxes
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
pictured in the page 90 at the Cipullo book write by Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker. Black Onyx
Onyx, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Henri Vever Art Nouveau Silver Thistle Cloak Clasp Designed by Ferdinand Erhart
Located in London, GB
Purcell, French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, London 2001,illustrated p.1037; Vivienne Becker, Art
Silver, Gilt Metal
René Lalique Art Nouveau Enamel and Gold Boxed "Automne" Pendant
By René Lalique
Located in New York, NY
20th Century Jewellery, by Vivienne Becker, NAG Press London, 1980, page 213, Plate 17.14. A similar
18k Gold
1950s Christian Dior Brown Crystal Earrings
By Christian Dior
Located in London, GB
Vivienne Becker and features on page 171 so these can be precisely dated to 1958. Made by the very famous
Crystal, Rhodium
Dazzling Antique Georgian Almondine Garnet Pansy Necklace, circa 1800
Located in Baltimore, MD
and in Antique and Twentieth Century Jewelry by Vivienne Becker (see the full page black and white
Garnet, 18k Gold
Sold
W 0.59 in L 1.57 in
Aldo Cipullo 1970 New York Rare Wrench Charm Pendant in Gilded Sterling Silver
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Miami, FL
: Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Assouline 2021, Pp-107 for a similar
Gold Plate, Sterling Silver
Cartier 1974 Aldo Cipullo Clip Earrings 18Kt Gold with 4.96 Ctw in Diamonds
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
. Literature: Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Assouline 2021, pp-136-137 for
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Cartier 1974 Aldo Cipullo Clip Earrings 18Kt Gold with 2.95 Ctw Diamonds Rubies
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Assouline 2021, pp-136-137 for similar examples (see figures). Provenance
Diamond, White Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sold
W 1.18 in L 1.38 in
Cartier 1974 Aldo Cipullo Sculptural Earrings 18Kt Yellow Gold With Onyx & Coral
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, Pp-136-137 for
Coral, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sold
H 1.18 in Dm 1.18 in L 1.18 in
Cartier 1974 Aldo Cipullo Earrings In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Green & Black Jade
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
designer. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker
Jade, Black Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sold
H 1.02 in W 0.95 in D 0.18 in
ALDO CIPULLO 1972 Playful As Hearted Clips-On Earrings In Solid 18Kt Yellow Gold
By Aldo Cipullo
Located in Miami, FL
and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, for similar examples from this
Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Sold
H 1.26 in W 1.18 in D 0.47 in
CARTIER 1973 Aldo Cipullo Earrings In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Rock Crystal & Onyx
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
1975 he found his own company as a freelance designer. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker
Onyx, Rock Crystal, Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Sold
H 2.09 in W 0.95 in L 16 in
Picchiotti Necklace Chain In 18Kt Gold With 34.52 Ctw Diamonds And Sapphires
By Picchiotti
Located in Miami, FL
craftsmanship – and a grand passion for excellence in the making of Fine Jewelry. Literature: Vivienne Becker
Diamond, White Diamond, Quartz, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold,...
Sold
W 0.91 in L 1.77 in
Michele Della Valle Clips Earrings 18kt with 26.24 Ctw Paraiba Tourm & Sapphires
By Michele della Valle
Located in Miami, FL
of sea and sky are the colors of jewels for which he has become celebrated." Vivienne Becker. Note
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Tourmaline, Paraiba, Go...
Arts & Crafts Necklace Pforzheim C.1900 Wilhelm Fühner
Located in Toronto, ON
. Item Weight: 11.53 grams. Lit.: Art Nouveau Jewelry. Vivienne Becker. Pp 160 and 235. Becker records
Celebrating 50 Years of David Morris, "Book"
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
making by noted writers such as Vivienne Becker.
Vintage Chanel brooch/pendant, made by Gripoix gold plated 1995 A
By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel
Located in Stuttgart, DE
badge of honour, the brooch is a bauble of power, writes Vivienne Becker in the FINACAL TIME
Gold Plate
Fiery Oval Australian Opal White Diamond Gold Three Stone Ring, Shimell & Madden
Located in Dallas, TX
to develop their designs into intricate pieces of exactitude. Financial Times columnist Vivienne
Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Opal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1950s Christian Dior Brown Crystal Necklace and Earrings
By Christian Dior
Located in London, GB
pastel and aquamarine. This latter colourway is documented in Henkel & Grosse Pforzheim by Vivienne
Crystal
Sold
H 1.3 in W 0.67 in D 0.67 in L 26 in
Tiffany Co. 1976 Schlumberger Egg Necklace Chain in 18kt Gold with Lapis Lazuli
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Lambert Mellon Collection from the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, VMFA 2019. Vivienne Becker, Tiffany & Co
Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sold
W 1.02 in D 0.47 in L 1.07 in
Cartier 1972 by Aldo Cipullo Spirals Swirls Clips Earrings in Textured 18Kt Gold
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
and Vivienne Becker, Assouline 2021, pp-136-137 for similar examples (see figures). Provenance
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
CARTIER 1971 By Aldo Cipullo Ziggurat Stepped Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Yellow Gold
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
offered at the sale. Literature: Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker. CIPULLO MAKING JEWELRY MODERN
Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Sold
H 1.18 in Dm 1.18 in L 1.18 in
Cartier 1974 Aldo Cipullo Geometric Earrings 18Kt Yellow Gold With Onyx & Coral
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Assouline 2021, Pp-136-137 for similar
Coral, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Cartier 1970 Aldo Cipullo Geometric Toi Et Moi Ring in 18Kt Gold with Gemstones
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
. Literature: Cipullo Making Jewelry Modern, Renato Cipullo and Vivienne Becker, Assouline 2021, Pp-83-85 for
Onyx, Rhodocrosite, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2000 Cartier Panthère Figurative Lakarda Yellow Gold HP600186 Wristwatch
By Cartier
Located in Bishops Stortford, Hertfordshire
in a way no other icon or creature can be. Bérénice Geoffroy-Schneiter and Vivienne Becker, along
Yellow Gold
Art Deco Lame Broche Fringed Shawl
Located in New York, NY
Art deco lame floral patterned shawl with ivory silk fringe, 48 x 38 plus 22" fringe. Excellent condition w slight oxidation in center.
Hermès Birkin 35 Rose Sheherazade GHW
By Hermès
Located in London, GB
- Pink - Exotic leather - Crocodile Porosus - Gold-tone hardware - Comes with keys, clochette, lock and CITES - Comes with original dust bag - Condition: Good This pre-owned item is ...
John Galliano Red Knitted Maxi Dress with Heart Cut-outs, SS 2000
By John Galliano
Located in London, GB
▪ Brand: John Galliano ▪ Creative Director: John Galliano ▪ Collection: Spring-Summer 2000 ▪ Fabric: 60% Viscose, 40% Cotton ▪ Details: Open-knit heart shaped cut-outs ▪ Size: Mediu...
Hermès Birkin 35 Black GHW
By Hermès
Located in London, GB
- Black - Exotic leather - Crocodile Porosus - Gold hardware - Two rolled top handles - Front flap closure with twist-lock fastening - Includes dust bag, clochette, keys, and padlock...
Chatelaines: Utility to Glorious Extravagance (Book)
By various
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
Chatelaines are decorative and useful waist-hung items that are both practical and decorative, which recreate the concept of the medieval chatelaine or lady of the castle wearing her...
Bochic "Orient" Ruby & Multi Fancy Sapphires Brooch in 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic "Orient" Ruby, & Multi Fancy Sapphires Brooch in 18K Gold & Silver Blue Natural Oval Shape Ruby - 4 carat Multi Color Sapphires from Sri Lanka - 18 carats Green Ga...
Garnet, Kunzite, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver
$2,900
H 1.58 in W 1.66 in L 16.15 in
Art Nouveau 18K Gold Ombre Enamel Peridot Pearl Diamond Necklace, circa 1900
Located in New York, NY
Beautiful Art Nouveau period 18K gold, Ombre enamel, faceted peridot, diamond and natural pearl necklace. With a central oval peridot measuring 9mm by 6mm, surrounded by fine stylize...
Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, 18k Gold, Enamel
Antique Victorian Ruby 0.10 Carat Diamond 15 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Brooch
Located in London, GB
Unusual and fine antique Victorian brooch handcrafted in 15 karat yellow gold composed of 3 decorative floral section featuring an approximate 0.10 carat diamond old European round c...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
$12,920
H 12 in W 16 in D 3 in
Chanel 2004 Rare Vintage Bible Book CC Limited Edition Minaudière Clutch Bag
By Chanel
Located in Miami, FL
Chanel 2004 Rare Vintage Bible Book CC Limited Edition Minaudière Clutch Bag Year: Fall 2004 Gold accent Black suede book motif Diamond quilted Signature CC patch Tassel detail In...
John Galliano Lace Cardigan and 2 Camisoles Set
By John Galliano
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous cardigan and camisole set in black knit lace plus an additional matching red camisole all from John Galliano. The set consists of 2 flower pattern lace knit camisoles one ...
Antique Art Nouveau 14K Gold River & Seed Pearl Flower Dangle Pendant w/ Chain
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (14) Genuine River & Seed Pearls - Baroque & Round Shape - Stem Set - Nice White Color Material: Solid 14K Yellow Gold Weight: 6.70 Grams Overall Width: 27.1mm (1") H...
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
AUSTRIAN HUNGARIAN 1915 Enameled Beetle Watch Ring In 18Kt Gold & Diamonds
Located in Miami, FL
A rare Austrian-Hungarian watch ring. This is an extremely rare and unusual clock-ring, created in the early 20th century during the Austrian-Hungarian empire period, circa 1915. Th...
Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, 18k Gold, Enamel
$2,782Sale Price|20% Off
H 0.95 in W 3.15 in D 2.37 in
Rare circa 1900 Sterling Silver Diamond and Enamel Powder Compact with Lipstick
Located in GB
Wimbledon Furniture We are delighted to offer For sale this stunning circa 1900 French or Italian Sterling silver Diamond & Enamel powder compact with lipstick A very good looking a...
Sterling Silver, Enamel
John Galliano for Christian Dior One Shoulder Silk Dress
By John Galliano, Christian Dior
Located in Water Mill, NY
A beautiful ethereal one shoulder dress from Christian Dior comprised of layers of semi sheer black silk over an opaque silk under dress. It has one shoulder with 2 panels of softly...
$79,200
H 8 in W 14 in D 5.1 in
Hermès Birkin 25 Noir Black Lizard Lisse Exotic with Palladium Hardware K
By Hermès
Located in Forest Park, GA
The Hermès Birkin 25 in Noir Black Exotic Lizard is a rare expression of timeless luxury and impeccable craftsmanship. Crafted from exquisite exotic lizard skin, this iconic handbag...
Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Hedgehog Sweet Yellow Gold Brooch Pin
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Hedgehog Sweet Brooch Pin by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. This vintage Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger brooch features an adorable hedgehog design crafted in 18k ye...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.