Fashion legend Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s sole fine jewelry collection included some of the most exciting and original works ever made — she loved costume jewelry but simply couldn’t resist designing with diamonds. Today, whether or not a given design happens to bear the house’s iconic logo, vintage Chanel bracelets, pendant necklaces, earrings and other accessories lend a bold touch to any ensemble.
Chanel established her business as a Paris hat shop in 1910 and started selling clothing in 1913. She introduced her costume jewelry in the 1920s, when the economy was roaring and fine jewelry was the main mode of adornment among her clients. Fearless about giving offense, Chanel proclaimed, “I love fakes because I find such jewelry provocative, and I find it disgraceful to walk around with millions of dollars around your neck, just because you are rich.”
Then, in 1932, in the midst of the Great Depression, Chanel dramatically switched gears and designed her first and only diamond jewelry collection, Bijoux de Diamants.
The lyrical and bold Chanel designs centered on five motifs: fringe, ribbons, feathers, the sun and stars. A dramatic diamond fringe headpiece was worn over the brow, while a fringe bracelet draped down the palm. A ribbon was tied in a bow at the front of a necklace and the top of a headband. These textile motifs linked the collection to the couturier’s clothes.
Even as rave reviews flowed in from the members of the press who attended the collection’s single showing, the International Diamond Corporation caved to the demands of the men in the French jewelry industry who forcefully expressed their firm belief that a fashion designer, and a female one at that, didn’t have the talent to make important jewels. At the same time, they were worried that Chanel’s diamond necklaces, brooches, bracelets and other creations would compete with their collections and cut into their profits. The pieces were broken up after the exhibition, and a planned London showing was canceled.
Afterward, Chanel never designed another diamond jewelry collection. Instead, she focused on costume and the demi-fine pieces she made in collaboration with Fulco di Verdura, when he worked at Chanel during the 1930s.
In 1993, the House of Chanel revived its fine jewelry business. Over the years, it has made near-exact renditions of the 1932 designs and imagined new silhouettes incorporating the original five motifs, as well as other themes beloved by Chanel, such as the lion, representing her Leo zodiac sign, and camellia flowers.
Find a range of vintage Chanel earrings, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Chanel Silver CC Chain Purple Bead Long Piercing Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Silver CC Chain Purple Bead Long Piercing Earrings *Marked 06 *Made in France *Comes with the original box -It is approximately 2" x 0.55". -Very...
$704Sale Price|37% Off
Chanel Silver Metal Square Clip On Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Sheung Wan, HK
- Vintage 90s Chanel silver metal square clip on earrings. - Engraved “Chanel Paris” in front and “31 Rue Cambon” at the back. - Size: 2cm x 2cm...
Chanel Tweed Black Inlay Lucite Bangle Bracelet
By Chanel
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Chanel clear lucite chain inlay, black string bangle bracelet D 2 1/2”, circus 12 H 1 1/8”, original pouch, stamp 14S. Comes with original pouch.
Chanel Gold Quilted Hoop Clip On Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
These authentic Chanel Gold Quilted Hoop Clip On Earrings are in excellent vintage condition from the 1980’s. Large front facing gold hoops are etched with signature Chanel quilting...
Chanel Rare Vintage Gold Plated Argyle White CC Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Rare Vintage Gold Plated Argyle White CC Brooch *Marked 93 *Made in France *Comes with an original box -Approximately 2.1″ x 1.7″ -It has a dent ...
$1,109
Chanel 11A round brooch
By Chanel
Located in Krakow, PL
CHANEL 11A CC Round Brooch 5.2 cm Very good condition. No original packaging.
Chanel Vintage Gold Toned Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Chanel Vintage Gold Toned Earrings. Four CCs adorn each earring, and several rhinestones encircle the gold-toned earrings. Signed Chanel. Made...
Gold Plate
Vintage CHANEL Logo CC gold toned cuff Haute Couture
By Chanel
Located in PARIS, FR
This Vintage CHANEL gold toned cuff is a timesless piece to add to a collection. Featuring the iconic interlocking CC logo of the House of Chanel, this remarkable clamper bracelet ha...
Gold Plate
Chanel Bird Cage Pearl LA PAUSA CC Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
These authentic Chanel Bird Cage Pearl LA PAUSA CC Earrings are in excellent condition from the 1980’s. Pouch or box included. PBF 12552
Chanel 18ct White Gold Lucky Charms Motif Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire
Chanel 18ct White Gold Lucky Charms Motif Necklace Product Details Xupes Ref: COMJ841 Brand: Chanel Model: Lucky Charms Motif Necklace Type: Necklace Serial Number: 1***** Accomp...
White Gold
Chanel Gold Quilted Hoop Clip On Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
These authentic Chanel Gold Quilted Hoop Earrings are in excellent vintage condition. Round gold hoop dangles from a small demi hoop. Etched with signature Chanel quilted pattern. ...
Gold
Chanel Gold-Plated Vintage 1981 Faux Baroque Pearl Necklace
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
Chanel Gold-Plated Vintage 1981 Faux Baroque Pearl Necklace PRIMARY DETAILS SKU: 153272 Listing Title: Chanel Gold-Plated Vintage 1981 Faux Baroque Pearl Necklace Condition Descri...
Gold Plate
Chanel Amethyst Diamond Miami Marlin Fish White Gold Brooch Pendant
By Chanel
Located in Southampton, PA
18k White Gold Miami Marlin Fish Diamonds And Amethysts Brooch Pendant by Chanel. With round brilliant cut diamonds VVS1 clarity, G color total weight a...
Amethyst, Diamond, White Gold
Chanel Custom Gold Plated Gilt Metal CC Logo Heart Long Necklace 95P, 1995
By Chanel
Located in Central & Western District, HK
Brand: Chanel Reference: JW365 Total Length of Necklace: 58cm Measurement of Chanel Logo: 4x4cm Material: Gilt Metal Year: 1995 Made in France Please Note: the jewelries are guarant...
Gold Plate, Gilt Metal
Chanel Vintage Gold Plated Windmill Pearl Clip on Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Vintage Gold Plated Windmill Pearl Clip on Earrings *Marked Chanel -It is approximately 1.45" x 1.45". -Classic and beautiful -In a very good condition. 2040-44768
Chanel Vintage Gold Plated CC Rope Cross Large Clip on Earrings
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Vintage Gold Plated CC Rope Cross Large Clip on Earrings *Marked 28 *Made in France *Comes with the original box -It's approximately 1.5″ x 1.3″. -Very pretty and classic -I...
Chanel Haute Couture Head Jewels in Gold Metal and Swarovski Strass
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel-(Made in France) Haute Couture head jewels in gold metal and Swarovski strass. Additional information: Dimensions: Height: 14 cm Condition: Very good condition Seller R...
Gilt Metal
Chanel Earrings with Pearly Cabochon and Glass Paste
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Golden metal earrings with pearly cabochon and glass paste. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Height: 2.5 cm Seller Refe...
Vintage 1994 CHANEL Gripoix Pearl Torsade Bar Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Kingersheim, Alsace
Vintage 1994 CHANEL Gripoix Pearl Torsade Bar Brooch Measurements: Length: 3.94 inches (10 cm) Width: 1 inch (2.5 cm) Features: - 100% Authentic...
Chanel Golden Metal Brooch with Diamond Shape
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Golden metal brooch with a diamond shape ornamented with red and green glass paste cabochons. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimens...
Chanel Tiered Tweed Leather Chain Clover Charm Necklace
By Chanel
Located in Kingersheim, Alsace
Tour du cou réglable de 41 cm à 49 cm ; Hauteur 7,5 cm CHANEL Tiered Tweed Leather Chain Clover Charm Necklace Measurements: Height: 2.95 inches (7.5 cm)...
Chanel Round Earrings in Golden Metal
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - Round earrings in golden metal featuring an Army cap in red enamel metal. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Diameter: 4 cm Seller Referenc...
Gilt Metal
Chanel Golden Metal Earrings, Pearls and Red Glass Paste Cabochons, Fall 1989
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel -Golden metal earrings, pearly pearls and red glass paste cabochons. Ready-to-wear collection Fall-Winter 1989. Additional information: Dimensions: Ø 4 cm Condition: Very goo...
Gilt Metal
Vintage CHANEL Coco Double Buckle Black Leather Cuff Bracelet
By Chanel
Located in Kingersheim, Alsace
Vintage CHANEL Coco Black Leather Buckle Cuff Bracelet Measurements: Height: 2.56 inches (6.5 cm) Circumference: 6.50 inches to 8.27 inches (16.5 cm to 21 cm) Features: - 100% Authentic CHANEL. - Wide black leather with engraved COCO on the leather. - Double buckle fastener with engraved CHANEL. - Gold tone hardware. - Signed Chanel 01...
Chanel Brand New Light Gold CC Bead Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Brand New Light Gold CC Bead Brooch *Marked 22 *Made in Italy *Comes with original box, pouch, booklet, tag, camellia and ribbon *Brand New -App...
1stDibs offers a range of Chanel jewelry and watches. These unique items were designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. While searching for the most stylish antique or vintage Chanel jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you'll find that Chanel diamond jewelry & watches can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look, from our inventory of 142. This collection includes 1,700 pieces, as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. Modern and Contemporary are some of the most popular styles of Chanel jewelry & watches available on 1stDibs. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th Century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider jewelry & watches by David Webb, Yves Saint Laurent and Robert Goossens. Prices for Chanel watches and jewelry can vary depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. The price for these items starts at $172 and tops out at $205,000, while pieces like these can sell for $2,077 on average.
Our love for diamond rings, luxury watches and other antique and vintage fine jewelry and estate jewelry goes back thousands of years.
Jewelry has long been a symbol of spiritual strength, wealth or power and, of course, a means of personal expression. While materials and processes employed by the world’s most popular jewelry houses — Tiffany & Co., Cartier, BVLGARI and others — have evolved over time, humans still gravitate toward many of the same accessories that our ancestors wore.
Ancient Egyptians were often hard at work designing jewelry and adorning themselves with an array of necklaces, rings and other items, and nearly every Egyptian, rich or poor, was buried with some kind of jewelry. When King Tut’s burial chamber was excavated, it revealed a sense of style that inspired Art Deco jewelry designs.
Brooches and pins remain essentials in our jewelry boxes, although we no longer require them to fasten our garments, as was once their primary use. Rings, which have always been signifiers of eternity, still serve as romantic gifts and tokens of affection. Antique, new and vintage engagement rings, even if it can be difficult to choose the right one, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. [Fun fact: It wasn’t until the 14th century that we learned how to effectively cut diamonds, a critical step in revealing the stone’s brilliance.]
Hoop earrings are imbued with symbolism and cultural significance for many, and on view in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Ancient Near Eastern Art Gallery is a pair of simple gold hoops from Mesopotamia dating to between 2600 and 2500 B.C. We’ve even created our own new, sacred symbols — the Cartier Love bracelet, for example, with its distinctive locking mechanism, is an understated and modernist symbol of love’s promise (with its own captivating history to boot). And, crafted by French jeweler Jacques Arpels of Van Cleef & Arpels, the Magic Alhambra necklace channels luck for the wearer with its universally adored design, which is informed by four-leaf clovers, a plant synonymous with good fortune.
Whether it’s our sentimental charm jewelry, costume jewelry, chunky retro bracelets or minimalist earrings created by the likes of contemporary designers WHITE/SPACE and Agmes, luxurious jewels can elevate any outfit, regardless of your personal style.
Find a wide-ranging collection of authentic antique, new and vintage jewelry today on 1stDibs.