Presentworth Evening Dresses and Gowns
to
17
8
1
1
2
3
9
15
10
3
2
2
2
2
25
14
8
8
8
3
OscarDeLaRenta 1975 Handpainted Silk EmpireWaist RibbonTied Blue Gown Maxi-Dress
By Oscar De La Renta
Located in Chicago, IL
Designed by U.S.-based Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for his 1975 Resort collection, this deeply-draping two-layer empire-waist silk gown maxi dress is handpainted in a blue-cream-an...
Category
1970s American Maxi Dress
OscarDeLaRenta 1982 MuseumShown Handpainted Floral Abstract CrepeDeChine Caftan
By Oscar De La Renta
Located in Chicago, IL
U.S.-based Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for Spring 1982 created a number of styles of bold vibrant uniquely-handpainted crepe-de-chine caftans that helped define his five-decade fas...
Category
1980s American Caftans
Couture LingerieLike Beaded Silk Cutwork Balenciaga Style 2000s Black Vest Apron
Located in Chicago, IL
This couture lingerie-like spaghetti-strapped black silk-satin apron vest--with extraordinary graphic cutwork featuring a heavily hand-beaded breast-plate and appliques--was custom made by a young designer for a New York City female...
Category
Early 2000s French Aesthetic Evening Dresses
MartinMargiela 1990 1stRetrospectiveCollection1994 Sheer Black Convertible Apron
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
As a variation of the traditional waiter-style apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for Spring/Summer 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment was part of his Spring 1994 collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white-cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive-fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies it a one of his favorites that he re-editioned from his first 10 fashion shows.
This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war.
Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections.
Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...
Category
1990s Italian Aesthetic Evening Dresses
1990s Jil Sander BiasCut Black Sheer Linen DeepVneck LongSleeve Tunic Mini Dress
By Jil Sander
Located in Chicago, IL
With the finest fabric and tailoring--the base expectation for all progressive minimalist luxurious fashions designed for powerful women by German Jil Sander before the Prada-buyout ...
Category
1990s German Mini Dress
1990s Alaia Paris Bias Cut CurvilinearSeamedButt DropWaist Draping Knit Dress
By Azzedine Alaïa
Located in Chicago, IL
In the early 1990s in France, Paris-based Azzedine Alaia (1935-2017) designed this knit pullover chemise-style sleeveless lavender violet viscose dress that features bias panels in b...
Category
1990s French Chemises
Couture 1960s PacoRabanne Paris MadeInFrance Handpainted SilkChiffon Pareo Dress
By Paco Rabanne
Located in Chicago, IL
In the 1960s, the Paris-based revolutionary futurist haute-couture designers included Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne, who was the last to died in the 21st Century in...
Category
1960s French Delphos Gowns
TomFord 2001 1stYearYSL PlungingV CutOut Draped Gown Sheer Silk Black Maxi Dress
By Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Located in Chicago, IL
American Tom Ford, for his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Paris/Rive Gauche while also creative director at Gucci, designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black formal evening gown...
Category
Early 2000s French Maxi Dress
Couture ThierryMugler 1990s CorsetStyle SilkLined Denim WideShoulder Power Dress
By Thierry Mugler Couture
Located in Chicago, IL
In the 1990s, French Thierry Mugler (1948-2022) designed this haute-couture labeled and numbered corset-style topstitched zigzag-panel ecru 100%-cotton-denim cocktail dress, which is...
Category
1990s French Cocktail Dresses
MartinMargiela S/S 2008 PlungingVneck Bias Ruched Black HalterTop HighSlit Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
From one of the last fashion collections for French Maison Martin Margiela by its renowned founder Belgian artist Martin Margiela before he prematurely retired in 2009, this asymmetr...
Category
Early 2000s Italian Aesthetic Evening Dresses
BillBlass 1970s TuxedoLike EcruSatinTrim BoldShoulder BlackWoolCrepe ShiftDress
By Bill Blass
Located in Chicago, IL
Around 1970 when Bill Blass introduced his eponymous brand after becoming a leading couture fashion designer among New York City society, he created this sleek tuxedo-like ecru-satin...
Category
1970s American Evening Dresses and Gowns
Balenciaga NicolasGhesquiere SilkFlowerPrint StructuredShortSleeve BiasCut Dress
By Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière
Located in Chicago, IL
While at Paris-based Balenciaga in late 2007, Nicolas Ghesquiere designed this 100%-silk bias-cut paneled dress that explodes with a grey and pale-yellow flower print and features un...
Category
Early 2000s French Aesthetic Evening Dresses
1980s VictorCosta GatheredRuched RedSatin BlackVelvet LongSlit Formal Maxi Gown
By Victor Costa
Located in Chicago, IL
For a formal special event, this 1980s maxi dress sleeveless gown by American designer Victor Costa features glamorous glossy red satin that is gathered, ruched and topstitched in bo...
Category
1980s American Maxi Dress
1980s BergdorfGoodman Costa Corseted Strapless Quintessential Little Black Dress
By Victor Costa, Bergdorf Goodman
Located in Chicago, IL
This timeless quintessential corseted,
shirred, ruched and topstitched "little black dress" produced by Victor Costa in the 1980s was made for the high standards of New York's trendsetting Bergdorf Goodman. It was the first U.S. luxury department store to order exclusive special-occasion dresses from this Texas designer and subsequently to give him a namesake in-store boutique. He soon became associated with the feminine glamorous gowns worn by "PYT" (Costa-speak for pretty young things) on the Dallas-based television-series "Dynasty", which idealized status-conscious Texan women mostly via fashion. With a strapless curvaceous sweetheart neckline, narrow sinuous folds of crepe silk-blend jersey cross diagonally below the decollete, while contrasting vertical ruching defines the seven bones of the invisible corset structure that is fully lined on the interior.
Under the bust in front below the empire-like peaked high waist, the fitted tucked underlay of the cocktail dress wraps around the back to end as an overlay in front, where the opening on the left side extends to the bodice like a discreet slit. The freely hanging bias-cut overlay in front is gathered underneath each breast for a forgiving central drape that adds additional curves to make the wearer's torso underneath appear in sleek condition despite a potentially less than ideal figure.
The dress closes with a concealed zipper in the center of the back, with exterior hook-and-eye fastening to narrow the waist. There is a second concealed hook-and-eye fastener at the top of the zipper.
Although the only remaining tag is the Costa/Bergdorf label, it is a contemporary U.S.-size 8, which will also suit a large-busted size 6 or a svelte size 10.
Now 88 years old, Victor Costa (b.1935) became widely known by the 1980s in The States for perfecting affordable luxurious gowns that could be mistaken for one-of-a-kind flamboyant designs by foreign couturiers Christian Lacroix, Arnold Scaasi, Oscar de la Renta or Valentino Garavani. Early on, the avid female sketcher...
Category
1980s American Cocktail Dresses
JohnGalliano 1stYearChristianDior SilkChiffon BiasCut Layered BallerinaDressGown
By Christian Dior, John Galliano for Christian Dior
Located in Chicago, IL
During John Galliano's first year as French fashion-house Christian Dior Creative Director in Paris for haute couture and ready-to-wear in 1997, he designed for his Spring/Summer 199...
Category
1990s French Ballerina Dresses
Couture 1990s LingerieLike EyelashLace Silk Red & Black Evening Sheath Dress
Located in Chicago, IL
This couture lace transparent red-and-black floral-pattern silk sleeveless evening midi dress, with an eyelash-lace boatneck and hem, is constructed with torso tucks above and below ...
Category
1990s American Evening Dresses
LingerieLike 1950s Ruched CrepeSilk & SemiTransparentOrganzaNetSkirt Mini Dress
Located in Chicago, IL
This unusual mid-century lingerie-style black mini dress with a semi-transparent skirt that conjures a historic pinup-girl like Bettie Page is suitable as a mini dress as part of an evening ensemble. It was probably meant by its New York designer to be paired with slim cropped pants, which became popular in The States after worn by Hollywood-movie actresses Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. The A-line short dress was most likely made by the former ready-to-wear fashion company following the revolutionary debut by French Christian Dior of his couture cinched-waist-voluminous-skirt "New Look" collection, whereafter German Sonja de Lennart introduced "Capris" in 1949, and American Hugh Hefner launched Playboy magazine in 1953.
The complex hourglass-shaped garment features a double v-neck four-seamed ruched lined bodice in a crepe silky woven fabric. Its defined gathered bust extends from the chest seams at two angles to form short dolman sleeves only in the front, while there are arm seams in back. The gathered see-through black faux-lace organza flared skirt reveals a black velvet-textured scalloped floral pattern with a net underlayer. With beige lining, the self-trim band at the waist enables the folded scalloped-lace pattern to continue to stand out on the opaque black torso. The edges of the peplum and sleeves are further cut in a scallop shape to resemble more delicate eyelash-lace trim.
The brand label of the obsolete line is the only interior tag that remains. Camouflaging the midsection, the flattering dress will best suit a U.S.-size 6. It can also be worn by larger sizes with a relatively slim waist and small or large bust as there is no restriction at the hips or wide armholes. At the waistline, a hook and looped cord fasten over the bypass zipper to better conceal it. Notably, the steel-tab-and-teeth zipper is an original U.S-made Murlen model, which was used in new clothes from the 1940s to 1960s and helps to date the mid-century dress.
Category
1950s American Mini Dress
JohnGalliano 1999 BiasCutSilk ChevronWoolFanPleat TealGreen Elongated ShiftDress
By John Galliano
Located in Chicago, IL
While John Galliano was also creating his early Christian Dior haute-couture fashion collections as its acclaimed creative director, for Fall/Winter 1999 ready-to-wear for his ongoing eponymous Paris-based fashion house, the Brit designed this teal-green woven-wool day-to-evening dress with a luxurious bias-cut satin silk underlay and couture-like finishing. Evidenced by this dress, at that time Galliano was championed by the editors of U.S. Vogue as the leader of the sleek ultra-feminine trend. The influential magazine had earlier helped to establish him in Paris with a U.S. financial backer for an independent atelier and in America among high-end retailers--from where this dress was purchased by the sole owner, but never worn.
Although its streamlined elegance that creates a striking silhouette has the look of a conservative linear dress...
Category
1990s French Sheath Dresses
Antique NativeAmerican Leather BraidedSeamsStrapsNeckline Sleeveless Hide Dress
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique Native American brown chamois suede leather sleeveless chemise dress, which was handmade during the "reservation era" between 1870-1930, is made from two soft supple ani...
Category
Early 20th Century American Chemises
CommeDesGarcons 1999 RunwayLook12 BiasCut TranslucentSatin SalmonPink Maxi Dress
By Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo Comme Des Garcons
Located in Chicago, IL
Rei Kawakubo designed this translucent salmon-pink bias-cut satin sleeveless maxi dress evening gown for her brand Comme des Garcons, which debuted on a model at Paris Fall Fashion Week as "Look 12" among the Vogue photo-coverage of her Spring/Summer 2000 collection (see our last photo of the ensemble).
The unusual V-neck shape creates a deep central drape in the front of the unlined dress that prevents the synthetic semi-transparent fabric from clinging to the torso. To continue to flatter the curvy shape of the lower body like the bias-cut enables, such as while walking, Kawakubo added an additional piece of fabric with a circling angular seam that rises from the wider hem.
With the exception of the brand tag, all others were cut off by the sole owner to eliminate bulk and visibility through the dress. If the buyer would prefer, the fabric can be made shinier and completely smooth with professional pressing.
If the buyer would like to create a layered ensemble with this gown as seen on the runway, we have other textural colorful tops to choose from with over-dyed unique appliques from this same Spring/Summer 2000 collection. However, we think our backless-mannequin photos show that this minimal dress...
Category
Early 2000s Japanese Evening Gowns
CommeDesGarcons 2003 RunwayLook1 Ruched Parachute Convertible White Dress Gown
By Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons
Located in Chicago, IL
For his design mentor Rei Kawakubo's Japanese brand Comme des Garcons, Junya Wantanabe made this inimitable semi-transparent white taffeta floaty ruffled-V-neck sleeveless pullover dress with distinct parachute elements, cutwork, and adjustable ruching and draping as "Look 1 and 2" (see photos) for the Parisian fashion show debut of his Spring/Summer 2003 collection. The stunning combination of contrasts range from romantic-to-combat themes, gathered-to-flowing construction, raw-to-finely-finished edges, soft-to-hard materials, and gossamer-to-dense textural fabrics.
Secured on the exterior of the dress with bold silver-tone metallic hardware, the parachute-like 100%-cotton grosgrain straps are mostly enclosed within multiple diagonal and vertical ruched channels to enable symmetrical or asymmetrical draping and lengthening of the thin synthetic fabric into multiple swags. Strap ends can freely hang from the functional hardware on the front of the dress and below its sides--as if they could be yanked to release the fabric into a drifty parachute sail.
With the potential to be a stunning formal overlay if worn with a minimalist wedding gown or long skirt, the reverse side of the voluminous dress is equally remarkable for its ruffled diamond-shaped cutout at the lower back, where it is intersected by a trio of linked thick straps that are secured to a looped ruched channel. This creates an elongated bustle with a dramatic central 19-inch slit between the two swags that each extend 43 inches below the outer shoulder hem.
This premiere-catwalk dress is distinguished from others in Wantanabe's "Parachute Jumper" collection by the complexity of its top. Two ruched straps form an X-shape via silver hardware at the upper back, extending to the front over the shoulders to form an adjustable face-flattering ruched V-neck with silver-hardware-linked narrow straps. The soft folds of the neckline contribute to the raised ruffle collar, as well as flow to the shoulder seams.
The hand-cut hem was designed unfinished and meant to fray, although it has not given its minimal wear and very good condition consistent with only age and storage. See our photos of the care/material tags.
All tags remain, including from the Italian concept-store 10 Corso Como, where it was purchased in Milan. The "Made in Japan" size is a large-running "S" due to the pullover and adjustable style of the dress, which is equivalent to an Italian-size 44 or U.S.-size 6.
Beyond a convertible dress...
Category
Early 2000s Japanese Evening Dresses
StellaMcCartney 2003 Runway Silk Satin Print Zip Jacket OffShoulder Bubble Dress
By Stella McCartney
Located in Chicago, IL
Arguable the most significant design in the Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2003 collection--since our versatile garment debuted in different colors on the runway and was worn by the British designer to take her fashion-show bow--this pink-printed dark-grey silk-blend zip-front bubble-shaped mini dress with white-satin stripes and pink piping was a favorite of the show's Vogue critic and her father Beatles co-founder Paul McCarthy.
Vogue wrote: "Her hippest new idea came in the form of puffy satin bombers--she transformed one, a fusion of sport and chinoiserie print, into an off-the-shoulder bubble dress. McCartney is so into the glam-bomber idea, in fact, that she bounded onto the runway wearing a black version herself."
The garment's voluminous batwing sleeves and stretch-cotton ribbed neckline and hem, plus custom golden-charm two-way zipper, enable it to have two different necklines and lengths to convert to a shorter puffier bomber jacket.
Notably, the versatile piece that is subtly printed with mock-Beatles lyrics seems to have been the first tribute fashion-design that McCartney created to reference her father. Prior, she had credited her stylish mother Linda for instilling her with a love of fashion and inspiration for her initial namesake collections, which followed her first commercial collections with Phoebe Philo for Chloe.
For background, when McCartney was a young girl in 1978, the mock-rock band The Rutles parodied a Beatles song, which was recorded by EMI as "Ging, Gang, Goolie". Given its lyrics, the chinoiserie-style dragon motifs were substituted by McCartney with bird skeletons...
Category
Early 2000s British Mini Dress
CommeDesGarcons 1996 Convertible Padded RedRoseJacquard & NavyCotton Skirt Cape
By Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons
Located in Chicago, IL
In 1996, Japanese Junya Wantanabe (b.1961) made this sculptural red whorled-rose jacquard padded cocoon coat/evening jacket/cape to convert to an equally unique and versatile asymmet...
Category
1990s Japanese Cocoon Coats
Vivienne Westwood 1998 CorsetStyle MarilynMonroe Velvet Moire Red Cocktail Dress
By Vivienne Westwood, Vivienne Westwood Gold Label
Located in Chicago, IL
British Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) designed this corset-style hourglass-shaped red velvet evening dress with its outsized double bow and sheer moire faux-underlay while producing her "Dressed To Scale" collection in 1998 with protege Andreas Kronthaler. A design from this collection set a Westwood-clothing auction record at Christie's London when a corseted silk gown fetched over $41,000.
This fresh interpretation of the classic Marilyn-Monroe silhouette was dubbed the "MM Corset Dress" for Westwood's semi-couture Gold Label, while it can still be made-to-measure as a bespoke dress (see photo of model wearing version as a white wedding gown...
Category
1990s British Evening Dresses
AlexanderMcQueen 2002 Shredded Silk Chiffon Wool Black Evening Gown
By Alexander McQueen
Located in Chicago, IL
British Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) designed this curvaceous uniquely-draped wool and hand-shredded silk-chiffon black cocktail-dress evening-gown for his Autumn/Winter 2002-2003 collection "Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious", which set a ready-to-wear $37,500 auction record in 2020 for its complimentary black billowing silk coat. Comparatively, a 1stDibs midi-dress listing similar to ours from his subsequent fashion-season collection for a raw-edge-cut silk chiffon red dress for Spring/Summer 2003 in good condition sold for $10,144. Our intricate ruched semi-transparent silk chiffon and sleek lined opaque wool hourglass midi dress is in very good condition. Although made in Italy, the tagged size 38 will suit a French 38/US 4-6.
Like the 2020-auctioned coat from Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, the gown is also among the few that encapsulate this collection according to Alexander McQueen, who was quoted by magazine Numero: "This collection was inspired by Tim Burton. It started out dark and then got more romantic as it went along." This is why The Met Costume Institute showcased a runway ensemble including the aforementioned coat in its museum retrospective, "Savage Beauty", a year after the designer died...
Category
Early 2000s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
Related Items
Badgley Mischka Beaded Black Silk Lace Evening Gown Size US 10
By Badgley Mischka
Located in New York, NY
Badgley Mischka glamorous black silk lace evening gown, size US 10.
Gown features hand beaded and embroidered lace with glass jet beading, and neckline with glass jet beads along cu...
Category
Late 20th Century American Evening Gowns
NWT Christian Dior by John Galliano Origami Dress Runway Fall 2006 Wedding Gown
By Christian Dior, John Galliano
Located in Baar, CH
New with tags, this never-before-worn archival piece has been carefully stored for the past 18 years, preserving its pristine condition.
An absolutely stunning and rare masterpiece ...
Category
Early 2000s French Evening Gowns
Chanel Documented Tweed Mother-of-Pearl Bridal Dress
By Chanel
Located in San Francisco, CA
Presented as look 5 on the Chanel Spring 2012 runway at the Grand Palais in Paris by Karl Lagerfeld, this documented ivory tweed dress is destined for bridal perfection. With mother-...
Category
2010s French Wedding Dresses
ROBERTO CAVALLI long dress
By Roberto Cavalli
Located in Rubiera, RE
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Long dress, black background, floral pattern, thin straps.
Deep neckline on the back.
90% polyamide/nylon
10% Elastane/Spandex
SIZE L
Made...
Category
2010s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
Prada Multicolored Irridized Plastic Disks Cocktail Dress
By Prada, Miuccia Prada
Located in Sharon, CT
A similar example was exhibited and illustrated in 'Schiaparelli & Prada Impossible Conversations' MMA
2012.
Category
Early 2000s Italian Chemises
Thierry Mugler S/S 1994 White Pleated Dress
By Thierry Mugler
Located in New York, NY
Thierry Mugler S/S 1994 White Fan Pleated Dress; with pleated gathering to central metal ring at midriff, satin-covered lightly-boned corset to interior.
Fi...
Category
1990s French Evening Dresses
Azzedine Alaia Velvet Mini Dress in Deep Burgundy
By Azzedine Alaïa
Located in San Francisco, CA
Azzedine Alaïa burgundy velvet dress from 1980s-1990s. Spectacularly structured mini dress with front-facing metal zipper. Formed into a tulip-li...
Category
1990s Mini Dress
Giambattista Valli Ivory Crepe Sleeveless Summer Wedding Gown Dress EU 40
By Giambattista Valli
Located in New York, NY
Elegant Giambattista Valli ivory crepe sleeveless wedding gown has a delicate fitted bust, darts to accentuate the length of waist, which is finished with a stitched ribbon at the wa...
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
New Gucci 90th Anniversary Runway Silk JUMPSUIT 2011 Sz 38 with a 1970's Vibe
By Gucci
Located in Leesburg, VA
Gucci Fall/Winter 2011
Gucci's 90th anniversary Fall Runway show
Frida Giannini cited her influence was Anjelica Huston 1970's
Brand New With Tags
$3275
Italian Sz 38
Gucci Silk Ju...
Category
2010s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
Gene Shelly Sequin Bridal Dress
By Gene Shelley
Located in San Francisco, CA
This decadent, FULLY beaded capsleeve dress is an exceptionally beautiful example of Gene Shelly's work. The hand-beaded stretch wool fabric hugs the body, making dancing a joy. This...
Category
1960s Wedding Dresses
Thierry Mugler Strapless Black Satin Gown, c.1980s
By Thierry Mugler
Located in New York, NY
Thierry Mugler Strapless Black Satin Gown, c.1980s
Thierry Mugler Strapless Black Satin Gown featuring asymmetrical, gathered corseted bodice with rhi...
Category
1980s French Aesthetic Evening Dresses
DOLCE & GABBANA red & white silk ROSE FLORAL HALF SLEEVE SHEATH Dress 42 M
By Dolce & Gabbana
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Dolce & Gabbana rose print sheath dress in multi-color silk (92%) and elastane (8%) with a round neck. Closes on the back with a concealed zipper. Lined in silk (97%) ...
Category