A Pierre Balmain Couture Ballgown numbered 87681 in Cream Silk Circa 1955/1957

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A Pierre Balmain Couture Ballgown numbered 87681 in Cream Silk Circa 1955/1957

About the Item

Circa 1955/1957 France Majestic cocktail or ball gown in silk ottoman embroidered Champagne by Pierre Balmain Haute Couture numbered 87681, model Versaille. Sheath dress with large plunging neckline with bare back, accented with a drape, pleated satin on the chest. Baleiné bustier lined with cream tulle. Skirt in corolla with five skirts of tulle and and taffeta petticoats and rich satin stitch embroidery inspired by the Age of Light and evoking the Hall of Mirrors at the Château de Versaille. Embroidery from Lesage or Maison Rébé in silk threads, pearls, cabochons, rhinestones, chenillettes and metallic sequins. Cream satin woven label from Pierre Balmain Paris and cotton bolduc indicating the number 87681. A few discreet little stains and halos and slight yellowing of the tulle of the bustier lining, otherwise non-fused and very resistant silk ottoman. Beautiful structural condition and embroidery in superb condition, A Collector Dress ! Provenance Collection Gilles Labrosse France. Measurement: French equivalent size 36. Size 68 cm, chest 87 cm, height skirt 69 cm, bustier height in front of 23 cm. Balmain was founded in 1945 by Pierre Balmain. From the outset, Monsieur Balmain’s boldly feminine and opulent signature style offered a startling contrast to the utilitarian looks of the day, creating a distinctive, super-feminine DNA for the house, which relied on richly embroidered fabrics, nipped-in waists and longer, often fuller skirts—and quickly transforming the Parisian house into a favorite of both European and Hollywood royalty. Balmain began his post-war career at the atelier of Lucien Lelong, where he worked alongside both Dior and Hubert de Givenchy. When he left to form his own house, success came rapidly, due in no small part to his mastery of couture techniques. As the New York Times pointed out, Pierre Balmain was, “along with Cristobal Balenciaga, Jacques Fath and Christian Dior, one of the young Turks who revitalized Paris couture after the German occupation. The famous clients of Pierre Balmain are quite numerous,” wrote Le Monde in 1958. “We know that Lili Palmer wears nothing but his light wools for both day and night, while Ingrid Bergman is not so constrained and feels free to wear whichever of his designs tempt her… Finally, Brigitte Bardot, who may not rely on one particular dressmaker has attracted a lot of attention with the velvet dress, worn under a matching coat that Pierre Balmain created special for her. Over the decades, Balmain has always proudly remained true to the trailblazing spirit of its founder. Since Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, his house has been guided by a series of strong designers, each balancing modern offerings with the need to respect the foundations and traditions of the house. In particular, Oscar de la Renta oversaw a decade of collections in the nineties that were inspired by the colors, fluidity and elegance of Balmain’s signature “Jolie Madame” aesthetic.

Designer:
Pierre Balmain Couture
Brand:
Pierre Balmain
Dimensions:
Marked Size: French equivalent size 36 (EU)
Style:
1955/1957 (Of the Period)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1950-1959
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Good Condition and Color.
Seller Location:
Toulon, FR
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU633311868922

Shop All Pierre Balmain

Pierre Balmain

Pierre Balmain founded his now-iconic label in 1945. Alongside fellow couture titans Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy, the French designer's postwar take on luxe dressing featured bell-shaped skirts falling from slender waists, structured jackets over sheath day dresses and embellishments like fur trim; he called the look “Jolie Madame.” The Duchess of Windsor was an early fan, prompting an aristocratic following.

From the voluminous skirts of the post-World War II “New Look” favored by Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich to the sleek, skinny jeans seen on Nicki Minaj, Kid Cudi and every Kardashian, clothes from the House of Balmain have long been mainstays in celebrity wardrobes.

The son of a dressmaker and a drapery salesman, Balmain's founder was born in 1914 in southeastern France and formed an interest in fashion at an early age. His mother wanted her son to be an architect — but the principles of design and structure that Pierre learned in his brief studies at the École des Beaux Arts served him well throughout his career.

Balmain was among the first to offer French looks to the American market. Since the death of the founder in 1982, the design reins at the company have been handed to luminaries such as Oscar de la Renta and Olivier Rousteing, an alum of Roberto Cavalli who was installed as creative director at the label in 2011.

Today’s Balmain has more in common with the master’s original haute couture than you might expect: sharply tailored blazers that nip in at the waist, delicate stilettos and ultra-feminine evening dresses are wardrobe basics for the 21st-century woman, too. Lovers of couture history will also prize the fluid, easy sketches from the master’s own hand they’ll find on offer here, while fashionistas clamor for the brand’s t-shirts, military-style jackets and skinny jeans.

Whether you’re a colonel in Rousteing’s “glamour army” or you fancy yourself a “Jolie Madame,” a Balmain piece — from the 1960s or even last season — will add a bold, sexy note to your look. Daytime or night, Balmain feels right now.

Find vintage Pierre Balmain dresses, skirts, scarves and other garments and accessories on 1stDibs.