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CommeDesGarcons 1997 AdultPunk Transparent EcruOrganza WhiteSilk Dinner Jacket

About the Item

1997 arguably marked the pinnacle of Japanese Comme des Garcons founder and fashion designer Rei Kawakubo's collection debuts when she introduced deconstructed asymmetrical "lumps and bumps" padding and transparent tops that both deformed and revealed female bodies. For her Fall/Winter 1997 "Adult Punk" collection, she debuted this transparent ecru organza pullover dinner jacket or evening oversized blouse, whose bodice and lower long sleeves are color-blocked with white textured silk-blend appliques and lined in white tulle that is hand-sheered above the outer hem. A recent Parisian exhibition at Musee de la Mode, "1997 Fashion Big Bang", celebrated this "watershed year in the history of contemporary fashion" given its high "number of emblematic collections" by 1990s designers who remain stars today--over 25 years later--such as Kawakubo, Margiela, Simons, Galliano, McQueen, Mugler and Westwood. Referencing cut crinkly translucent pattern-making paper, this jacket/blouse is distinguished by six distressed appliques--four of which are asymmetric, plus two symmetric wide bands on the sleeves. The partly-tailored appliques, some with ecru top-stitching and fraying edges, are mostly affixed to the organza via heat transfer. Their abstract shapes conceal most of the lower torso with the exception of the side seams and bottom, while enabling the sheer roomy irregular yoke to reveal the upper arms, shoulders and decolletage. Conjuring Japanese culture and strong feminine identity, the glamorous pullover has flared kimono-like 21.5-inch stiff sleeves with transparent dropped shoulders and a voluminous opaque chest with peplum suggesting Kabuki-theatre costumes or see-through armor. The top front features a faux plunging neckline whose crevasse-like opening extending down to the waist is created by inward-folding organza that is tucked between the two symmetrical curved princess seams that define the breasts. Another pair of princess seams repeats on the back without the voluminous folds. Instead, an exaggerated yet concealed zipper in the center enables closure. Like T-shirt iron-on decals, the permanently wrinkly appliques will further deconstruct each time they are worn or cleaned, while the smooth synthetic organza will remain sturdy. It's like an elegant couture version of punk T-shirts, which stand out in fashion history for their slashed cut-work and other elements of deconstruction. The crotch-length pullover, which can accommodate a range of sizes, is in very good condition so that the buyer can leave their own distinct impression of wear on the appliques. When worn, the "Garcons" wording on the exterior folded part of the entire "Comme des Garcons" brand tag can be read through the transparent back left shoulder. Aside from the concealed S-size tag, the bulky material tags were removed by the sole owner, who wore it at least once. The long-dress version of the seemingly one-off pullover--without the dramatic plunging neckline--was photographed by Vogue as part of its archived fashion-show coverage, where it can be seen online as "Look 23" or as our included photo of it.

Designer:

Rei Kawakubo Comme Des Garcons

Brand:

Comme des Garçons

Dimensions:

Length: 26 in (66.04 cm)Marked Size: S (JP)Bust: 34 in (86.36 cm)

Style:

1900s deconstruction (Of the Period)

Place of Origin:

Japan

Period:

1990-1999

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Chicago, IL

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU3244219990432

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Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons is one of the world’s most innovative and trailblazing fashion brands, helmed by its inimitable founder, Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo (b. 1942), who has a penchant for breaking fashion and cultural norms. The only living designer apart from Yves Saint Laurent to have a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Kawakubo has permanently changed fashion with designs that challenge traditional ideas of beauty with a creative and transgressive exuberance.

After studying art and literature at Keio University in Tokyo, Kawakubo worked as a freelance stylist before establishing her own label in 1973, opening her first store in Tokyo in 1975. Kawakubo has since been instrumental in pioneering many concepts now familiar in contemporary fashion. One of her most iconic moves was her introduction of androgynous styles (Comme des Garçons means “like the boys” in French) with asymmetrical, twisted silhouettes that envelope the body. While she told the New York Times that the “basics of clothing lie in men’s fashion,” Kawakubo believes in the concept of humanness in clothes, such as titling her spring 1995 show “Transcending Gender.” In the 1970s, when color-blocking was the norm, Kawakubo stuck to her monochromatic color palette dominated by shades of black with uncompromising dedication, although with evocative and powerful use of red and white.

Comme des Garçons is also known for an often shocking take on fashion. Deconstructed tailoring, violently slashed fabric and sculptural shapes are some themes that run through the brand’s collections, but Kawakubo never explains the meaning of her conceptual pieces, which fall somewhere between art and fashion. Even though the brand has more commercial offshoots like PLAY, known by the iconic heart motif with eyes, the premier men’s line Homme Plus and the multilabel Dover Street Market that opened in 2004, the essence of Comme des Garçons remains Kawakubo’s otherworldly and undefinable creations, which are impossible to ignore.

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