1990s Lingerie
Color: Gray
Period: 1990s
Vivienne Westwood Toile de Jouy cotton corset, ss 1996
Located in London, GB
▪ Vivienne Westwood white cotton corset
▪ Blue 'Toile de Jouy' print
▪ Boned stomacher
▪ Matching printed overlay with lace-up fastening and fold-over collar
▪ String ties on the s...
Category
English 1990s Lingerie
Vivienne Westwood Corset Iconic Rare 90s Red Label
Located in Berlin, BE
Extremely rare vintage original Vivienne Westwood corset. A stunning piece of Fashion History.
One of the masterfully created iconic Westwood...
Category
Italian 1990s Lingerie
Vicky Tiel Couture Silk Ruched Corset Top
By Vicky Tiel
Located in Water Mill, NY
A beautiful off white silk corset top from Vicky Tiel. It is worn off the shoulders with elbow length sleeves, a sweetheart cut neckline and ruching throughout in angles. The front...
Category
French 1990s Lingerie
Couture MartinMargiela 1998 WorkOnPaper & Artisanal Line0 WhiteLingerie BoxedSet
Located in Chicago, IL
As conceptual art while he transitioned to Hermes Creative Director in 1998, Belgian Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut in the setting of a contemporary-art gallery priced at upwards of EU$150,000--created this stenciled or block print. Conceived by arguably the most culturally influential contemporary fashion designer since Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, it is part of a limited-edition-of-two white-boxed set that includes the couture Maison Martin Margiela "Artisanal Line 0" body-harness lingerie in its maker's signature color white for Spring 1998.
The same lingerie--one white and the other black--starred in a film made by Margiela among the five that he screened to present his Spring/Summer 1998 "Flat Collection" in Paris at the Conciergerie. In that film titled "4", which begins with a view of the iconic topless tabi "boots", the hands of Margiela's white-labcoat-clad assistants enter the frame to manipulate different garments on a model who initially wears the exterior lingerie (see our photos) as if jewelry. A simple dark collared coat, a white collared button-down shirt, and a dark button-down cardigan--all with the "displaced neckline" or "displaced shoulder" of the flat-hanging clothes--are transformed into new collarless plunging v-neck garments, which appear to be ruched when folded under the harness of the lingerie.
Both black versions of the lingerie are in museum collections. In Martin Margiela's home-country, the ModeMuseum (MoMu) archived its collected piece as OBJ7660. In the 2018 Parisian retrospective exhibition at Musee de la Mode/Palais Galleria when its artistic director was Martin Margiela (working with Curator Alexandre Samson), the second black lingerie was featured on a mannequin and collected the same year by the Vogue Paris Foundation. Other conceptual designs from this same 1998 collection of jewelry were acquired by TheMet museum in Manhattan.
Without the restriction of the use and function of clothing, the small uncreased print--on a card that can be removed from the interior-box bottom that it loosely spans--shows the buyer how to endlessly fashion unique tops using the structural-elastic lingerie as an undergarment for their own pre-worn button-down shirts.
This is a more obvious example of the once avant-garde concept of anti-fashion upcycling that Martin Margiela introduced to challenge social and fashion-industry norms by the 1990s, which echos the revolutionary anti-art of Marcel Duchamp. Essentially, valuable art/fashion can be made from everyday vintage objects. While Duchamp did so in 1917 with a men's porcelain urinal titled "Fountain" attached to a gallery exhibition wall, they both made the point that it is the way that such items are reassembled that can make the result a progressive statement.
What makes the print so special and worthy of framing for display is that, without words, the three numbered images on a single white card encapsulate the before-its-time fashion manifesto of Martin Margiela to recycle fashion in remarkable new wearable ways, such as harnessed by his unique lingerie. According to The New York Times in its 2021 feature-story that reflected on his radical fashion design and delved into his crossover art, Margiela "changed how we dressed in the 1990s", while his art embodies "the visionary man he has always been."
At a turning-point shortly after Margiela designed this couture set in 1997, his personal manifesto became more difficult to accomplish in his fashion career as the new leader of France's historic luxury fashion-house Hermes, for which his first womenswear collection was presented for Autumn/Winter 1998. Frustrated by the limitations of the industrialized luxury trade and conglomerate conflicts with his closely guarded privacy, the famously "invisible" designer pre-maturely retired from the fashion industry in 2009 to independently build on his clever artistry in other mediums. Margiela continues to demonstrate what he often told his fashion teams: "The less you have, the more creative you are as a designer."
This minimal finely-crafted lingerie without size or gender restriction--composed of adjustable "polya-elasthanne" straps with a clear anti-slip strip on the underside and three silver-plated metal double-rings--can be worn either as a concealed structural undergarment or as a visible jewelry-like body harness in appreciation of its meaning as a foundation for recycling fashion, pure form, and meaningful color. While the initial Maison Martin Margiela ready-to-wear brand tag until the late 1990s was a distinct corner-sewn unbranded white label accompanied by tags for origin and materials/care, the couture version for this lingerie is a single tiny white unbranded tag stitched in a line near the end of the waist strap, noting in English, "Made In France," with succinct material/care identification.
The set's original white unbranded box and its white black-typed couture-identification sticker complete the "invisible-brand" aesthetic. We interpret the black-type codes on the aged box-sticker (“E98 ST HAUT; Struct Elas Blanc; 02; TU"): Spring 1998 Haute Couture; white structural-elastic garment; Artisanal Line 0 edition of two; one size only.
The print, lingerie and box are in very good condition as shown in the photos with only one mark on the rear edge of the exterior box-lid. Although initially tried on by the sole owner to realize a restructured shirt, the lingerie body-harness was never worn. It was collected in Belgium at the Brussels boutique where Martin Margiela initially sold his brand with his founding business-partner Jenny Meirens since 1988.
Prior, Margiela worked for several years as a fashion-design assistant to Parisian Jean Paul Gaultier. Both designers have since received independent museum retrospectives internationally--from Paris' Grand Palais and Musee Palais Galliera (The City of Paris Fashion Museum) to NYC's The Brooklyn Museum and Antwerp's MoMu. While others continue to try, Martin Margiela (b.1957) is the only leading fashion designer to have made a full-time transition to the commercial contemporary-art world with such highly valued works.
As a rare revealing piece of both fashion and art history, the increasing value of this Maison Martin Margiela 1997...
Category
French 1990s Lingerie
S/S 1995 Gianni Versace Runway White Butterfly bathrobe
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
90's vintage Gianni Versace cotton bathrobe with the iconic butterfly print. This robe was seen on the runway as well as in the commercial photos of that season. The iconic print was re-iditioned in 2018. The robe...
Category
1990s Lingerie
Vivienne Westwood grey corset with Thomas Gainsborough dog print, fw 1992
Located in London, GB
▪ Rare Vivienne Westwood grey corset top
▪ Dog print from a detail of Thomas Gainsborough's - Tristam and Fox c. 1775–85
▪ Red bow applique
▪ Centre-back ...
Category
British 1990s Lingerie
1990s Valentino Floral Georgette Lingerie Set
By Valentino Intimo
Located in London, GB
This 1990s Valentino lingerie set features a floral and lace trimmed slip dress and a matching dressing gown with floaty sleeves, both in a beautifully so...
Category
American 1990s Lingerie
Chantal Thomass SS95
Located in Paris, FR
CHANTAL THOMASS SS1995 Cream bodysuit
Tag: THOMASS
Size S/M
Measurements
Shoulder: 14,17 inches / 36cm
Chest: 15,35 inches / 39cm
Length: 25,98 in...
Category
1990s Lingerie
Galliano Printed Slip Dress
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Bring out your rocker-chick for this Galliano era printed knee-length dress. This is a slip-style dress, double lined, with a flattering twisted bust, thin straps, and a 'Galliano' and skull black and white print throughout. Pair with some Celine boots, a Prada leather jacket...
Category
French 1990s Lingerie
Vivienne Westwood white jersey Conduit Street corset, ss 2002
Located in London, GB
▪ Vivienne Westwood corset top
▪ Sold by One of a Kind Archive
▪ Spring-Summer 2002
▪ White cotton jersey
▪ Black text print of a Vivienn...
Category
1990s Lingerie
Gianni Versace Mare 1992 Buffalo Bill Native American Theme Swimsuit Bodysuit 44
Located in Chicago, IL
Designed by Gianni Versace for the Fall/Winter 1992 collection. This unique (possibly controversial) print was featured on button up tops for that season’s runway show and produced o...
Category
Italian 1990s Lingerie
Azzedine Alaia Vintage Bustier Cutout Back Bodysuit Swimsuit
Located in Naples, FL
Azzedine Alaia Vintage Sexy Open Cutout Back Bodysuit Swimsuit
All Eyes on Alaïa
For the last half-century, the world’s most fashionable and adven...
Category
1990s Lingerie
S/S 1995 Dolce & Gabbana White Logo Print Stretch V-Neck Brief Set
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a rare lounge/lingerie set designed by Dolce & Gabbana for their Spring/Summer 1995 collection. This iconic logo print debuted on the season's runway and appeared in the s...
Category
Italian 1990s Lingerie
Roberto Cavalli Leopard Corset circa 1990s
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Bring out your edgy side with this Just Cavalli multicolor mixed animal print bustier top. This top's fit is almost completely customizable as it features a lace up back, adjustable ...
Category
Italian 1990s Lingerie
Vivienne Westwood white and grey checked corset, ss 1994
Located in London, GB
Vivienne Westwood white and grey checked corset - designed to cinch the waist and push the breasts up.
Spring-Summer 1994
Category
British 1990s Lingerie
1990s Emilio Pucci New Light Blue + Brown + Maroon Signature Mosaic Silk Bra Top
By Emilio Pucci
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy brand new 90s vintage EMILIO PUCCI silk bra crop top! Features the signature Pucci kaleidoscope print, with Pucci signature scribbled throughout. Straps ...
Category
Italian 1990s Lingerie
Vivienne Westwood lace screen printed denim corset and jeans, fw 1992
Located in London, GB
Vivienne Westwood lace screen printed denim corset and high rise slim jeans
Fall-Winter 1992
Category
British 1990s Lingerie
1990'S GHOST Mint Green Bias Cut Rayon Kate Moss Style Slip Dress
By Ghost
Located in New York, NY
1990'S GHOST Mint Green Bias Cut Rayon Kate Moss Style Slip Dress
Category
1990s Lingerie
1990'S GIANNI VERSACE Baby Blue Satin Bra Top Buster Bustier
Located in New York, NY
1990'S GIANNI VERSACE Baby Blue Satin Bra Top Buster Bustier
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1990s Lingerie
1990S VIKTOR & ROLF White Cotton Iconic Multi Collar Shirt
Located in New York, NY
1990S VIKTOR & ROLF White Cotton Iconic Multi Collar Shirt
Category
1990s Lingerie
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