Martin Margiela Deconstructed "taped" Jeans
View Similar Items
Martin Margiela Deconstructed "taped" Jeans
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 41 in (104.14 cm)Marked Size: 38 (EU)Waist: 27 in (68.58 cm)Hip: 36 in (91.44 cm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: DMW3ON5911stDibs: LU16121074882
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- 1980S NORMA KAMALI Nylon OMO Parachute JumpsuitBy Norma KamaliLocated in New York, NY1980S NORMA KAMALI Nylon OMO Parachute JumpsuitCategory
1980s American Jumpsuits
- Victorian Blue & White Striped Organic Cotton Men's Patchwork Long Underwear PaLocated in New York, NYVictorian Blue & White Striped Organic Cotton Men's Patchwork Long Underwear PantsCategory
Early 1900s Pants
- 1990S ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black & White Polyester Elastane Floral Paisley Lace PrBy Alexander McQueen for Givenchy Haute CoutureLocated in New York, NY1990S ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black & White Polyester Elastane Floral Paisley Lace Print LeggingsCategory
1990s Pants
- MORPHEW COLLECTION Blue & White African Cotton Striped Indigo Drawstring RomperBy MorphewLocated in New York, NYMORPHEW COLLECTION Blue & White African Cotton Striped Indigo Drawstring Romper MORPHEW COLLECTION is made entirely by hand in our NYC Ateliér of rare antique materials sourced from ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Jumpsuits
- 1940S Burgundy Striped Rayon Pajama PantsLocated in New York, NY1940S Burgundy Striped Rayon Pajama PantsCategory
1940s Pants
- 1990S Grey Polyester Rat Pack Style Men's Very Lightweight Crepe PantsLocated in New York, NY1990S Grey Polyester Rat Pack Style Men's Very Lightweight Crepe PantsCategory
1990s Pants
- Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford FW-2003 Higher Waist Cotton PantsBy Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in Brussels, BEMenswear shapes were a constant source of inspiration for French designer Yves Saint Laurent. He put women in tailored pants and tuxedo suits, which created outrage in the late 1960s...Category
Early 2000s Italian Pants
- Dior Miss Diorella Trompe pantsBy Christian DiorLocated in Annandale, VARare Dior Miss Dior Trompe pants Size 38 Front zipper with a lace tie Good vintage conditionCategory
Early 2000s Italian Pants
- GUCCI - Vintage Gray Tapered Pants with Front Stripes | Size 4US 36EUBy Gucci, Frida GianniniLocated in Cuggiono, MIA very special pair of pants designed by Frida Giannini for Gucci in 2009, featuring three stripes crossing from the belt on the front side. The pants have a tapered design, the hem ...Category
Early 2000s Italian Pants
- Chanel 05 A Pant grey wool size 38By ChanelLocated in L'ESCALA, ESElegant Chanel pants in gray wool from the 05A collection, mid-high waist with a straight cut. 2 small pockets at the front and at the back with a chan...Category
Early 2000s Italian Pants
- 1990s Versace Jeans Couture Olive Cotton Jeans 30By Versace Jeans CoutureLocated in Miami, FL1990s Versace Jeans Couture soft cotton jeans with a olive type print on a white background. Ovals in an ombre blue to yellow color and red dots. Silver medusa Versace buttons on t...Category
1990s Italian Jeans
- Gianfranco Ferre Low Rise PantsBy Gianfranco FerréLocated in Los Angeles, CABlack low rise pants. Front zipper closure. Rear pockets. Flare bootcut. Nylon and polyester. Made in Italy. *Condition: excellent vintage condition. No visi...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Pants
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
After Centuries, the Kimono’s Influence on Fashion Is Still Strong
We talked to museum curators and fashion experts to find out how and why the kimono has remained endlessly fascinating for more than 1,000 years.