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AzzedineAlaia S/S1986 PrinceOfLinesBlackSet Knit & TripleBrassZipperStuddedSkirt

Name: AzzedineAlaia S/S1986 PrinceOfLinesBlackSet Knit & TripleBrassZipperStuddedSkirt
Brand: Azzedine Alaïa
Price: 4895 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

Featuring a dramatic never-worn zipper skirt from Alaia's iconic Spring/Summer 1986 collection--which dominated the Vanity Fair published preview of the French Foundation Azzedine Alaia that had been entirely assembled by the designer (1935-2017) to coincide with his last Paris fashion show--this likewise black ensemble includes a fine-denim high-waisted bodycon pencil skirt with three bold brass zippers, six curvilinear seams, and two derriere top-stitched deep pockets. For a set including knitwear like it debuted on the runway (see Alaia foundation photos), it is paired with a cropped v-neck knit pullover vest with embroidered ribbed and knotted trim around the neckline and sleeveless arms, plus top-stitched embroidery on the front that creates a zipper-like tuck below each breast. Both pieces show why Alaia was dubbed "the princes of lines". On the back of the skirt, the two symmetrical lines on the front of the knit are echoed by its two zippers that are each bracketed by brass studs at the top of the back pockets. Ingeniously, these horizontal zippers reveal a dot or adjustable stripe of bare skin when opened. As such, when not worn, the patch pockets are visible on the interior just below the zippers. Adding a vertical element to the skirt beyond the pocket topstitching are two stacked riveted studs at the front center of the 6-cm-tall waistband for snap closure. Below, the longest zipper is asymmetrical with a double zip, which can reveal part of the lower waist and/or create a slit along the front right leg to the crotch. With the original "Alaia Paris" boutique paper tag with handwritten notes in French still attached, the like-new cotton skirt is French-size 40 with the fully-sewn black-on-white brand tag "Alaia Paris" and additional "Made In France" tag with matching season number and size, plus model number. While the designer had all of his knits made in Italy, the "M" size-medium black-on-white "Alaia Paris" labeled vest has an additional tag noting composition of 90% viscose/rayon, 6% nylon and 4% Spandex, which are material percentages found in other Alaia knit tops since at least Spring 1984. Depending on how high the skirt waistband is on the buyer, the ribbed hem of the knit may be able to be tucked under it. Our backless mannequin likely makes the skirt sit a little lower than it may when worn, while the vest will be a tighter fit.

Designer:

Azzedine Alaïa

Brand:

Azzedine Alaïa

Dimensions:

Length: 21.5 in (54.61 cm)Marked Size: French 40 (EU)Waist: 27 in (68.58 cm)Hip: 37 in (93.98 cm)

Style:

biker (In the Style Of)

Place of Origin:

France

Period:

1980-1989

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Chicago, IL

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU3244221235982

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Azzedine Alaïa

Master Couturier, King of Cling: legendary fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa (1935–2017) is known by many names, each referring to his unparalleled ability to mold fabric onto the female form in unexpected and radical ways. The Tunisian-born designer spent his entire life in relentless pursuit of a wholly distinctive and most-flattering fit.

“For me, fashion is the body,” said Alaïa. “I make clothes; women make fashion.”

Alaïa is credited with inventing the supermodel through his exclusive fashion shows, the body-con dress — which, quite literally, hugs the body and emphasizes and embraces every curve — and pioneering what industry professionals have taken to calling “slow fashion.” The designer openly rejected empty, of-the-moment fads as well as the structure of biannual seasons and instead took his time, unhurried by press and releasing collections at his own pace. Most importantly, Alaïa was a visionary when it came to traditional notions of femininity and sexuality. At a time when loose, soft silhouettes were the norm, Alaïa’s sexy, waist-cinching hourglass and body-con outfits were shocking.

Alaïa’s “body-conscious clothes,” wrote fashion critic Suzy Menkes, “seemed a deliberate challenge — throwing down a sexist gauntlet in a feminist world.”

While powerful women such as Madonna, Michelle Obama, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington wear Alaïa’s creations today, his origins were remarkably humble.

Born to a farming family, Alaïa always had a creative streak. As a young boy, he would flip through women’s fashion magazines and quickly became interested in the design of women's clothing. He went on to study sculpture at the School of Fine Arts in Tunis and later worked as a tailor for a dressmaker before he found work creating garments based on Parisian haute couture designs. The combination of his classical training in sculpture and practical experience as a tailor convinced Alaïa that fashion was his calling. In 1957, he moved to Paris and worked for Christian Dior for less than a week before being fired. From there, Alaïa secured a job with Guy Laroche and opened his own maison in the 1970s.

At his core, Alaïa was a couturier who cut and sewed his samples himself. He also experimented with zips, seams, unexpected materials, textures, animal prints and floral patterns like an artist. Today, Alaïa’s clothes look untouched by the passage of time and the various trends that have materialized since their debut; they are as fresh, stylish and stunning as ever. His garments are pop-culture icons in their own right: Cher Horowitz, played by Alicia Silverstone in 1995’s Clueless, exasperated with a perpetrator holding her at gunpoint, declares, “But this is an Alaïa!”

Vintage Alaïa evening dresses, skirts and other attire continue to influence contemporary designers such as Nicolas Ghesquière and Hervé Léger. Not only are his clothes timeless in their glamour, but they also represent the groundbreaking vision of an artist, one who was known to proclaim, “I am not a designer. I am a couturier.”

Find a collection of Azzedine Alaïa day dresses, suits, jackets and more on 1stDibs.