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Vintage Thierry Mugler Star Pocket Jacket + Skirt Suit
About the Item
This vintage Thierry Mugler skirt suit (circa 1990) is instantly recognizable by its unique star cut-out pockets, a signature Mugler emblem, incorporated in a design only he was clever enough to achieve. Thierry Mugler and his work have been the subject of many a museum retrospective for a reason: he is responsible for defining the fashion landscape of the late 1980s and early 1990s, with his unabashedly feminine, sensual, borderline-campy perspective. Stars a common motif throughout Mugler's work, including the shape of the iconic Muger Angel perfume bottle. It's crafted in a matte black worsted wool faille, which really allows the details and workmanship to shine. I love that the star cut-outs are actually functioning pockets! The jacket is expertly tailored with princess seams, light shoulder pads, and a flared peplum at the hips creating the super-flattering hourglass shape. The waist is defined, offset by some volume at the chest and shoulders. It closes with two snaps, which have a beautifully ridged texture to match the fabric— the attention to detail here is so evident! The skirt is so expertly shaped to sit high on the waist and remain fitted through the hips. Note that the back zip closure is hidden in one of the back darts— again, the craftsmanship here and attention to detail is simply unparalleled. The skirt features velvet stripe down each side. Each of these pieces is just as wonderful worn separately— this set is actually so many different looks in one amazing investment. The jacket is fully lined; each piece is constructed in France of 100% worsted wool.
This piece is from the collection of a renown couture collector, who focused on collecting the very best of the best through the 1980s-1990s.
Measurements: This fits closest to a modern size Small, X-Small, and up to a Medium (jacket). The skirt fits up to a size 4; the jacket is meant to be more oversized, but will also work for larger sizes, fitting up to approximately a size 6. Marked a French size 38 but please note that this does not necessarily correspond with modern sizing.
Jacket: (measurements are taken fully fastened)
Shoulders: about 17.5", shoulders are dropped
Chest: 40.5"
Waist: 29"
Sleeves: 22"
Length: 26.5" from shoulder to longest point of hem; 23" from shoulder to shorter length at side hem
Skirt:
Waist: 26"
Hips: 36" laid flat, plus about 1" extra give
Length: 18.5"
Great vintage condition; it was never worn (see provenance above) but note there is a tiny flaw, a spot of fraying at one shoulder which has been repaired (will not fray any further); otherwise, it is in pristine condition, and this flaw doesn't detract from the beauty of the piece. Otherwise, it is in pristine condition. With any questions about the specific condition or size, please send a message for additional photos or measurements, as all sales are final.
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- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: see description; Size XS + Small (NA)Bust: 30.5 in (77.47 cm)Waist: 26 in (66.04 cm)Hip: 36 in (91.44 cm)
- Style:1990s (Of the Period)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3381221120822
Thierry Mugler
Fashion as sculpture, as avant-garde expression, as spectacle: Thierry Mugler’s career pushed the boundaries of what fashion design and clothing could mean.
Mugler, who went by Manfred in recent years, founded his brand in 1973 with his first personal collection. By the late 1990s, he was more famous for his fragrances, thanks to the brand’s best seller Angel. But the designer’s vintage evening gowns and dresses have recently returned to red carpets, worn by stars like Kim Kardashian and Cardi B.
Thierry Mugler’s penchant for performance, drama and costuming came from his background in ballet, having danced as a teenager with the Opéra national du Rhin in his hometown of Strasbourg, France. In the 1980s and ’90s, his couture shows were theatrical and futuristic, similar to those of his contemporaries Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix. In one of Mugler’s shows, the then-pregnant legendary supermodel Pat Cleveland (part of the coterie of glamorous muses associated with designer Halston) was suspended from the ceiling and then glided down the runway surrounded by clouds of smoke. Mugler would become known for his immaculate tailoring as well as for his increasingly avant-garde designs that featured sharp cuts, sexy and fetishistic elements, an integration of metal and uniquely treated materials like PVC and leather.
Recent years have seen Mugler’s archival designs, especially from his 1995 haute couture show, take center stage, coinciding with the resurgence of camp in fashion and the return of bodycon dresses. The brand’s roster of clients has included some of the most visionary figures in fashion, from David Bowie and Diana Ross to Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, and the founder’s influence on over-the-top fashion can be seen in the work of designers such as Jeremy Scott and Alexander McQueen.
Find vintage Thierry Mugler suits, day dresses and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
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