Japanese Monastery Robe Patchwork Kesa with inscription Edo Period

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Japanese Monastery Robe Patchwork Kesa with inscription Edo Period

About the Item

A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) made from thirteen columns of patchworks of blue brocades with sumptuous woven pattern in colored and gold threads. The elaborate motifs feature repetitive pattern of blooming peonies and schools of carp among scrolling vines and foliage. Six square patches of contrasting orange-gold brocade squares were sewn to the four corners and one longitude side of the Kesa, completing the symbolism of the garment (see below). On the saffron silk back lining of the kesa, there is a Kanji inscription hand-written in ink. It appears to indicate the name of the donor who might have been a female. It measures 39" x 81" when fully opened. The list size is for shipping quote only when it is folded. The kesa is in fine condition considering its age. The backing however shows significant fading and disintegration at places. The lovely piece can benefit from preservation by framing. Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word kasaya, meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith, and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily kesa generally have seven columns. The current fourteen column kesa is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion. Additionally, four or six patches with contrasting colors were sewn onto the vestment. The four squares in the corners represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno). The two squares in the upper-middle section represent two compassionate bodhisattvas.

Dimensions:
Height: 39 in (99.06 cm)Width: 81 in (205.74 cm)Depth: 0.1 in (2.54 mm)
Style:
Japonisme (Of the Period)
Materials and Techniques:
Brocade,Silk
Place of Origin:
Japan
Period:
19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
19th Century
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Minor losses. Unframed, antique textile condition fragile but intact with expected wear, one small inconspicuous seam separation in the front, otherwise very fine. Saffron silk backing is significantly faded and disintegrating at two areas.
Seller Location:
Atlanta, GA
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU945030778992