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Art Nouveau Aquamarine & Pearl Brooch Set in Silver & Gold - France - Circa 1900
About the Item
Art Nouveau Aquamarine and pearl brooch set in silver and gold - featuring a bezel set emerald shape Aquamarine to the center (approx. 4.02 carat weight - 11 mm. x 9 mm. x 6 mm. each) - flanked by two cultured pearls (4 mm. diameter) - hand made concave silver filigree setting with 14K yellow gold applied flowers, bands and bezel - original clasp with safety catch and hinge - 14K gold pin (acid tested) - no hallmarks - France - circa 1900.
Excellent antique condition - no loss - no damage - no restoration - tarnishing of the silver - signs of age and use - ready to wear.
Size/Dimensions - Large - 2 1/2" Wide x 1 1/8" High x 1/2" Deep.
Weight - 13.60 Grams (Total).
- Metal:Gold,14k Gold,Silver
- Stone:Aquamarine,Pearl
- Stone Cut:Emerald Cut
- Weight:13.6 g
- Dimensions:Height: 1.13 in (28.71 mm)Width: 2.5 in (63.5 mm)Depth: 0.5 in (12.7 mm)
- Style:Art Nouveau
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:Late 19th Century
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1900
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chatham, CA
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3276221075302
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Setting diamonds in gold with a thin layer of silver, “silver set”, was a technique used in the Georgian/Victorian/Art Nouveau period as white coloured gold and platinum were not yet available. A very thin layer of silver was applied to the gold, on which the diamonds were set, to show them off to their best advantage (as the yellow would reflect and distort the white colour of the diamonds).
The Art Nouveau period was a short lived but worldwide movement which reached its peak at the end of the 19th Century and the first decade of the 20th Century. It had its roots in the Pre Raphaelite and Arts and Crafts movements in Britain in the 1860’s. Artists, such as William Morris, took their inspiration from the flora and fauna of nature and rejected the mass industrialisation and mechanisation of the Victorian age.
Art Nouveau continued with this theme and has a distinctive appearance with soft, curved shapes and lines and often depicted natural designs such as flowers, birds and the female form. Before the Art Nouveau period, the emphasis had been to design pieces with an emphasis on gem stones, diamonds, rubies emeralds etc. However, during the Art Nouveau period, jewellers adopted the idea of using other semi–precious stones “from nature” such as agate, garnet opal, moonstone, aquamarine and experimented with a wide variety of new techniques e.g. enamelling.
The “New Art” style became a worldwide movement encompassing all disciplines of the arts, and world class artists as far afield as Gaudi with his “modernisme” architecture in Spain, Louis Comfort Tiffany in New York with objects, Galle Glass in France and the Liberty & Co Archibald Knox designs in Britain, Jugendstil in Northern Europe and Faberge in Russia.
The movement flared brightly but briefly and by 1910 it was already going out of style to be replaced by Art Deco.
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