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Couture 1939-50 Schiaparelli-SchlumbergerStyle GlassBeads ProngSetCrystal Brooch

$10,220
£7,583.64
€8,833.90
CA$14,226.31
A$15,842.28
CHF 8,245.03
MX$195,333.45
NOK 105,006.81
SEK 98,696.22
DKK 65,911.83
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About the Item

In the style of Elsa Schiaparelli couture costume-jewelry and one of her paruriers since the late 1930s, Jean Schlumberger, this handcrafted highly-textural glass-and-crystal rhodium-plated brooch is designed in an asymmetrical convex strawberry-fruit shape with chasing on the silver reverse. The tightly-wired beads include distinct Parisian hand-poured black melon-glass and hand-crafted grey round faux-pearls. Topping it off, a spiky silver metal frame that is shaped like a strawberry stem has leaves channel-set with clear crystals. Below, prong-set colorless crystals add sparkle throughout the rest of the arrangement. This intricate complex flora-inspired organic design suits the style of Schlumberger, a jewelry designer who created many unsigned couture pieces for Schiaparelli for over a decade beginning in Paris in 1937, which are exhibited and collected by museums. Like Schiaparelli, just before WWII he established a workshop in New York City, where he later opened a jewelry boutique with a fellow foreign craftsman. Schlumberger went on to greater fame in the jewelry business as the longtime head designer of Tiffany & Co since 1957. Like his mentor Duke Fulco di Verdura who create couture jewelry for Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Schlumberger is widely considered to have created the most glamorous jewelry of the 20th Century, such as pieces worn by Greta Garbo and Liz Taylor. Significant regarding this brooch, his early designs for Schiaparelli did not include precious gems. Notably, the back of the brooch includes a chased plate that is found on other documented unsigned jewelry commissioned by Schiaparelli, which completely conceals the wires looped through a hidden perforated plate. This, along with a safety clasp and lack of a text stamp including "France" and/or "Depose", distinguishes it from brooches by other French couturiers such as Coco Chanel that include elements from the same Parisian specialized-material workshops. And, while Mirium Haskell jewelry designs also included such Parisian materials, the backs of her brooches were never plated with rhodium like Schlumberger did when not using platinum for a non-tarnishing silver tone. Given its size, this brooch was likely handmade to decorate a couture hat or to appear like a button on a couture evening gown.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Silver,Rhodium
  • Stone:
    Crystal,Pearl
  • Stone Cut:
    Mixed Cut
  • Weight:
    19 g
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)Depth: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)Length: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
    1940-1949
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1939-1949
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218597042

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