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Couture 1939-50 SchiaparelliSchlumbergerStyle GlassBeads ProngSetCrystal Brooch

About the Item

In the style of Elsa Schiaparelli couture-jewelry and one of her paruriers since the late 1930s Jean Schlumberger, this handcrafted silvery highly-textural glass and crystal brooch is designed in an asymmetrical convex strawberry fruit shape with chasing on the rhodium-plated reverse. The tightly wired beads include distinct Parisian hand-poured black fluted glass and hand-crafted grey round faux-pearls. Topping it off, a spiky silver metal frame that is shaped like a flower head has petals or leaves channel-set with clear crystals. Below, prong-set clear rose-cut crystals add sparkle throughout the rest of the arrangement. This intricate complex flora-inspired organic design suits the style of Schlumberger, a jewelry designer who created many unsigned couture pieces for Elsa Schiaparelli for over a decade beginning in Paris in 1937, which are exhibited and collected by museums. Like Schiaparelli, before WWII, he established a workshop in New York City, where he later opened a jewelry boutique with a fellow foreign craftsman. Schlumberger went on to greater fame in the jewelry business as the longtime head designer of Tiffany & Co since 1957. Like his mentor Duke Fulco di Verdura who create couture jewelry for Coco Chanel, Schlumberger is widely considered to have created the most glamorous jewelry of the 20th century, such as pieces worn by Greta Garbo and Liz Taylor. Significant regarding this brooch, his early designs for Schiaparelli did not include precious gems. Notably, the back of the brooch includes a chased plate that is found on other commissioned jewelry by Schiaparelli, which completely conceals wires looped through a hidden perforated plate. This clearly distinguishes it from Coco Chanel and Miriam Haskell handcrafted costume-jewelry brooches that include elements from the same Parisian glassmakers, but with a visible frame on the reverse. Given the use of a rollover clasp and small size, this brooch was likely handmade to decorate a couture hat or to appear like a button on an evening gown.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Rhodium,Silver,Base Metal,Gilt Metal,Mixed Metal
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
    Mixed Cut
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)Depth: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)Length: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)
  • Style:
    Art Deco
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218597042

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    Ships From: North Adams, MA
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.

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About the Seller
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Located in Chicago, IL
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