Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 6

Couture 1936-49 Schiaparelli-Dali-Style Set FauxSapphire&Pearl Earrings & Brooch

About the Item

This surrealistic handcrafted faux-sapphire-topped-pearl cluster brooch and clip-earrings set dates to around WWII, when fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) embraced the art-movement Surrealism and relocated from Paris to New York while her couture-house production continued. Featuring the other color associated with Schiaparelli in addition to her love of "shocking pink", this sparkly and lustrous starburst trio conjures the bespoke silk and metallic embroidery resembling exploding electric-blue fireworks that Parisian Maison Lesage added to Schiaparelli evening garments for her iconic themed collection for Fall/Winter 1938/1939 titled "Zodiac". Among Schiaparelli's paruriers who were commissioned to design costume jewelry for the Zodiac collection, Lina Baretti most likely created this set as we found a similar brooch that was published in the book (p.131) by Patrick Mauries, Lina Baretti Parures. While that piece with additional blue, green and red glass beads was commissioned by Chanel c.1950 to be executed by Maison Gripoix, Baretti frequently reworked her distinct designs for different couturiers since at least 1930. For example, see our other listing for a Chanel-Baretti brooch-and-earrings set c.1930, whose style we found repeated years later for auctioned Schiaparelli-commissioned earrings using different fabric and shapes. Considering the minimal decorative repetitive materials of a prong-set tiny crystal wired through a faux-pearl bead for this costume jewelry, the set otherwise could have originated after Schiaparelli commissioned Salvador Dali in the 1940s to use similar but more precious materials. Most famously for a Schiaparelli brooch, Dali tightly arranged prong-set tiny rubies around clustered cultured white pearls to redefine his iconic late-1930s imagery, which represents movie-star Mae West's open lips revealing teeth. For the design of our brooch-and-earring set in clusters of 35 or 15, each pearl is topped by a prong-set round faceted blue crystal, which is a color that is rare in nature and one featured in the Zodiac collection. Beyond the aforementioned Schiaparelli characteristics, the construction, shape and chased-texture of metal hardware on the reverse is in the style of jewelry that was signed with her Italian last name after her licensing agreements with U.S.-based manufacturers in the 1940s. So if this set was a licensed design instead of handcrafted originals, one or more of the pieces would have been signed. The set is in very good condition. On the back of the brooch, whose additional textured-plate hardware completely conceals the wire construction, there is minimal metal discoloration that resembles aged white gold. While the diameter of each earring is 1 1/4 inches with a depth of 1 inch, the dimensions of the brooch are noted in the Measurement Units section of this listing. Last year, the Parisian major retrospective of the Italian designer's work and collaborations concluded after six months at the Musee des Arts Decrotifs, which was titled "Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli" and included haute-couture jewelry from the time that this set originated.
  • Metal:
    Mixed Metal
  • Stone:
    Crystal,Pearl,Sapphire
  • Stone Cut:
    Round Cut
  • Dimensions:
    Depth: 1.25 in (31.75 mm)Diameter: 2 in (50.8 mm)
  • Sold As:
    Set of 3
  • Style:
    Modern
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
    1940-1949
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1938-1948
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218263242
More From This SellerView All
  • HenrySchreiner EarlySet ProngSetCrystal Silver Spray Tiered Earrings & Brooch
    By Henry Schreiner
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Henry Schreiner, the Austrian-born blacksmith founder of Schreiner in New York in 1932, handcrafted this demi-parure of prong-set clear crystal stylized-foliage sprays after he began...
    Category

    Vintage 1940s American Victorian Brooches

    Materials

    Crystal, Diamond, Rhodium, Silver

  • Vendome GiltLeavesBranch GoldFilagree Handwired BlackGlass Crystals ClipEarrings
    By Vendome
    Located in Chicago, IL
    These post-WWII high-end Vendome hand-wired clip earrings each feature a spray of yellow-gold gilt-metal leaves with a stylized branch and five prong-set clear crystals among a clust...
    Category

    Vintage 1940s American Modern Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Crystal, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

  • HautCoutureDiorDesignerWesternGermanyMaxMuller Crystal SinuousDangleClipEarrings
    By Max Müller Kaufbeuren
    Located in Chicago, IL
    While making similar mid-century haute-couture costume jewelry for Christian Dior, designer Max Muller based near Kaufbeuren, Western Germany, created these dramatic clear-crystal si...
    Category

    Mid-20th Century German Modern Dangle Earrings

    Materials

    Crystal, Silver, Gilt Metal

  • HattieCarnegie 1955 Glass Crystal HandWired MixedBead GiltMetal Clip Earrings
    By Hattie Carnegie
    Located in Chicago, IL
    These Hattie Carnegie multicolor glass, crystal and gilt-metal earrings notably include her script last-name signature without copyright symbol that was used on clips before her deat...
    Category

    Vintage 1950s American Baroque Revival Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Crystal, Coral, Gold, Brass, Copper, Gilt Metal

  • Couture 1950s WestGermany DiorDesigner Crystal DoubleTrimmed EmeraldCut Earrings
    By Christian Dior Haute Couture
    Located in Chicago, IL
    While making similar Christian Dior haute-couture costume-jewelry in mid-century, designer Max Muller based near Kaufbeuren, Western Germany, created these exceptionally clear crysta...
    Category

    Mid-20th Century German Modern Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Crystal, Silver, Gilt Metal

  • Schreiner 1950s 22 RuffleProngSetCrystals PaleYellow AuroraBorealis ClipEarrings
    By Henry Schreiner
    Located in Chicago, IL
    In 1956 when Christian Dior's ultra-feminine New Look had dominated fashion for nearly a decade, Schreiner New York handcrafted these opulent unsigned earrings with 22 prong-set open-back crystals to accompany the evening-wear of an American high-end fashion designer. They may have been for client Pauline Trigere when her ready-to-wear collections with accessories including unmarked-Schreiner jewelry were sold by NYC's Bergdorf Goodman and worn by her clients including Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Comparatively, Schreiner jewelry produced in the 1950s for direct sale to high-end department stores, such as Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel and Saks Fifth Avenue, were the only pieces to include a brand signature. Using the best quality European crystals that were custom-made for him, the founder Henry Schreiner was among the world's leading glass-jewelry designers before he died in 1954, whereafter his daughter and her husband continued with their handcrafted production. The family shared this distinction with Western Germany-based Max Muller and Paris-based Roger Jean Pierre, who were commissioned to create haute-couture pieces for the world's leading fashion houses. Notably in 1949, Henry Schreiner was commissioned by Dior to create several exclusive pieces. We know these earrings were not created earlier than 1956 because of the use of iridescent coating on some of the crystals that produces a rainbow effect. Known as aurora-borealis (AB) stones, Swarovski initially produced them exclusively for a haute-couture collection that year by Dior. Shortly thereafter, the Schreiner team had access to such colorful stones, and most certainly used them as soon as possible to enable their American fashion-designer clients to compete with the new Dior iridescent-colors trend. As Schreiner introduced its "ruffle" settings in 1957, we can see that they evolved from a smaller ruffle the year prior that is present on the tips of the marquise-shaped pale yellow stones...
    Category

    Vintage 1950s American Modern Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Crystal, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

You May Also Like
  • William Spratling Conch Shell Earrings Pin Brooch Set 980 Silver Vintage Taxco
    By William Spratling
    Located in North Attleboro, MA
    From the collection of Phyllis M. Goddard, widely respected collector, researcher and author of books on William Spratling's works. She featured the pin in her book "Spratling Silver: A Field Guide", 2003, pg. 40, figure 2-56. A beautiful set of matching earrings and brooch. Crafted of 980 silver using the repousse method into the design of stylized conch shell cross...
    Category

    Vintage 1940s Mexican Modernist Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Silver

  • Boucheron Paris Elegant Baguette Diamond Demi Parure
    By Boucheron
    Located in New York, NY
    Boucheron Paris, the innovator of this style of baguette set ribbon diamond work intermingled with brilliant diamonds. A matching ribbon pin and fabulous ear clips. Diamond total ca...
    Category

    Vintage 1980s French Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Diamond, Platinum

  • Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Superb Rose de Noel Diamond Red Coral Gold Suite
    By Van Cleef & Arpels
    Located in New York, NY
    Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Superb Rose de Noel Diamond Red Coral Gold Suite Since the 1970’s Van Cleef & Arpels has celebrated the Christmas Rose by pre...
    Category

    Vintage 1980s French Brooches

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, 18k Gold

  • Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond White Coral Yellow Gold Rose de Noël Brooch
    By Van Cleef & Arpels
    Located in New York, NY
    A rare Van Cleef & Arpels "Rose de Noël" brooch set in 18k yellow gold, each piece designed as a flower head, set in the center with brilliant-cut diamonds on spiked gold filaments,...
    Category

    Vintage 1980s French Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Diamond, Coral, White Diamond, 18k Gold

  • 14 Karat Yellow Gold Floral Suite Earrings Brooch Duo w Citrine
    Located in Mount Kisco, NY
    Each bloom displays spectacular detail in this floral suite of matching earrings and two brooch pins made of fourteen karat 14K yellow gold. Bright citrine centers adorned each flor...
    Category

    Vintage 1950s Unknown Brooches

    Materials

    Citrine, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold

  • Victorian Coral Earrings And Brooch Flower Leaf Motif 14 Karat Gold Circa 1870
    Located in New York, NY
    This is a rare pair of museum quality Etruscan Revival Victorian Coral Earrings and Brooch. The parure set has gorgeous hand carved three dim...
    Category

    Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Clip-on Earrings

    Materials

    Coral, Pearl, 14k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold

Recently Viewed

View All