Items Similar to MiriamHaskell 1947-49 FrankHess EarliestSignature RussianGilt FleurDeLysEarrings
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 12
MiriamHaskell 1947-49 FrankHess EarliestSignature RussianGilt FleurDeLysEarrings
About the Item
With the earliest brand signature from 1947-1949, these Miriam Haskell (1899-1981) hand-wired Russsian-gilt brass floral French-wire-clip earrings were created by her first designer Frank Hess. On the metal ear-pad attached to their hallmark filigree back, the duo include their first non-paper signature that is impressed around a circle, which was a style only used for two years. Prior to 1947, no Haskell jewelry was marked with a permanent signature.
While it is rare to find Hess designs entirely constructed from metal findings, the mostly brass earrings are decorated with intricately cut five-petal pieces, which were further textured to depict French fleur-de-lys at each tip. Tightly arranged at different angles around three wired fluted beads, they appear as a matte-gold bunch of three-dimensional stylized flowers.
Just the backs of the earrings have some loss of gilding, so otherwise in excellent condition.
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Dimensions:Depth: 1 in (25.4 mm)Diameter: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)
- Sold As:Set of 2
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1947-1949
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244220369532
About the Seller
5.0
Vetted Seller
These experienced sellers undergo a comprehensive evaluation by our team of in-house experts.
Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
9 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 1 hour
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
More From This SellerView All
- MiriamHaskell WWII FrankHess Rose Rhodoid & CrystalMontee Layered Clip ClimbersBy Frank Hess for Miriam HaskellLocated in Chicago, ILBeginning in 1939, American Miriam Haskell asked her first designer since 1926 Frank Hess to sparingly use metal in their costume-jewelry collections during WWII while war materials were needed. So not unlike the Spring/Summer 2024 floral appliques designed by Balmain artistic director Olivier Rousteing, hand-crafted rose-motif plastic never looked more beautiful in the 20th Century than such eye-catching glossy creations as these ballet-pink clip earrings by Hess. In this reflective and sparkling pair of lightweight slightly asymmetrical climbers, shiny film-like rhodoid is hand-cut, layered in three dimensions for irregular shadows, and riveted with clear roses-montees to a thin silver metal frame, which replaced Hess' characteristic wired Russian-gilt brass frame while still resembling his earlier construction (see our other Haskell listing for an early double fur-clip chain lariat). The earring clips, with tiny holes that were used for unsigned Haskell...Category
Vintage 1940s American Modern Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsCrystal, Mixed Metal
- Couture Chanel Pre1955 Signed France Gripoix PouredGlass Goosens EarringsBy Maison Gripoix for ChanelLocated in Chicago, ILThis couture pair of gold-gilt earrings are both stamped "France" on their convex gold-gilt metal ear-pads, which is characteristic of one-of-a-kind designs commissioned by Parisian ...Category
Mid-20th Century French Art Deco Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsCrystal, Turquoise, Pearl, Gold, Gilt Metal
- Couture Montague 1950s French WiredGlassBeads CrystalEnameledRondelles EarringsBy Francoise MontagueLocated in Chicago, ILIn the 1950s while he operated an eponymous Parisian couture costume-jewelry boutique, Francoise Montague designed these unique handmade ornate pair of sparkly clip earrings featurin...Category
Vintage 1950s French Artisan Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsCrystal, Enamel, Gilt Metal, Mixed Metal
- Couture Early Chanel Marked MadeInFrance WiredPearl&LampworkGlass ClipEarringsBy ChanelLocated in Chicago, ILStamped "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel beginning in 1924, these floral-motif wired earrings with early handcrafted brass clips are decorated with button-like cultured mother-of-pearls mixed with Parisian organically-coated lampwork glass, which we photographed in indoor sunlight for the most accurate colors. The pair were designed by Chanel to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons and a brooch) for a client of this pearl-associated couturier whose earliest one-of-a-kind jewelry--unlike other 1920s fashion designers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems. The intricate glass artistry, wired clustered arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of Chanel's first Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet, who was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 specializing in faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work construction. As the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated well-worn brass hardware to the mid-1920s. The beads of various sizes and ecru colors that are wired to each earring include five round graduating iridescent mother-of-pearl disks, along with lampwork glass replicating nine baroque pearls, five round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural imperfections on the green-and-rose-reflecting cultured pearls, while there is some nacre-enamel loss on the glass beads that is not eye visible. On closer view, one of the central round glass beads has a lighter blister, which appears like the texture of some uncultured pearls. Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France". We acquired these earrings in The States along with a similar set with less but larger "petals, berries and leaves", which we priced the same in a different listing despite the slightly greater size and weight of this pair. So we know that they both were created for a single commission of multiple unique earrings with like lampwork-glass shapes and findings to be paired with the ecru mother-of-pearls provided by Chanel. While we have acquired over a dozen pre-signature pieces commissioned by the founder, these are the earliest earrings that we have discovered by Chanel. We have never found a single match to contradict our recognition of her early couture creations nor to attribute them to another designer. Further, Art Deco couture...Category
Vintage 1920s French Artisan Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsPearl, Cultured Pearl, Brass
- Couture Early Chanel Marked MadeInFrance WiredPearl&LampworkGlass Clip EarringsBy ChanelLocated in Chicago, ILMarked "Made In France" on their antique brass back-plates like the initial unbranded couture costume-jewelry commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel since 1924, these beaded early-handcrafted-clip earrings are arranged with wire in a floral motif featuring button-like mother-of-pearls accented by smaller pieces of lampwork glass with an ecru organic coating that mimics pearl nacre. The pair were designed to accessorize a one-of-a-kind clothing ensemble (likely including cultured-pearl buttons and a brooch) for a client of the pearl-associated French couturier whose earliest jewelry--unlike her fashion-designer peers--sometimes mixed real and faux gems. The glass artistry, clustered arrangement and earring findings are characteristic of one of her Parisian paruriers, Louis Rousselet, who was a lampwork master with a workshop since 1920 specializing in faux-pearl glass beads and wire-work assembly, along with other decorative elements. Since the three-piece flat-brass lever clips without hinge-holes on both sides predate Rousselet's wire-horseshoe clips, they can be dated like the patinated brass hardware to the mid-1920s. The beads of various sizes and shades of white that are wired to these earrings include four round graduating iridescent mother-of-pearl disks, along with lampwork glass replicating four baroque pearls, three round pearls and two seed pearls. There are natural impurities present on the green-and-pink-reflecting cultured pearls, while we can clean dust from the coated-glass crevices upon request. Of note, Chanel did not include a brand signature on any of her couture costume jewelry prior to the mid-1950s. As many of her clients who came to Paris for their couture-clothing fittings were foreign, the coordinated unique jewelry that was expected to leave the country was merely stamped "Made In France" or "France". We acquired these earrings in The States along with similar pair with additional but smaller "petals, berries and leaves" from the same Rousselet commission. Further, Art Deco couture...Category
Vintage 1920s French Artisan Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsPearl, Cultured Pearl, Brass
- ArtDeco 5BlackDiamond-FacetedSpinels 6BezelSetCognacDiamonds CastSilver EarringsLocated in Chicago, ILFeaturing five sparkly black opaque spinels with diamond-shaped facets and splintery vitreous surfaces, along with bezel-set champagne diamonds with yellow or peach reflections in su...Category
Mid-20th Century Art Deco Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsSpinel, Black Spinel, Brown Diamond, Silver
You May Also Like
- Loulou de la Falaise 1980s Couture EarringsBy Loulou de la FalaiseLocated in Boston, MAThese 1980’s couture earrings are a swinging floral bouquet that reflects the electric charm of Loulou de la Falaise and the extraordinary craftsmanship ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Clip-on Earrings
- Cluster Earring, with Diamonds Total Carat 8.98 Ct, Emeralds Total Carat Ct 4.90Located in Rome, ITThe cluster model earrings with pear-cut diamonds and emeralds, with two brilliant-cut diamonds in the center. N ° 10 pear cut diamonds total weight 8.50 ct N ° 2 brilliant cut diam...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Retro Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, White Gold
- Earrings with 1.50 Ct of Navette and Brilliant Cut Diamonds Made in ItalyLocated in Rome, ITThe are earrings are formed by a rectangle of diamonds with 6 navette cut diamonds in the center. The total weight of the diamonds is: ct 1.50. The earrings have a clip and pin clo...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Clip-on Earrings
Materials18k Gold, White Gold
- Earrings with 2.60 Ct of Baguette and Diamond Cut Diamonds, 18 Kt GoldLocated in Rome, ITThe earrings are each made up of 2 rows of baguette-cut diamonds and 2 diamond-cut files, the total weight of the diamonds is ct 2.60. Their shape is semi-circle. The closure is wit...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Clip-on Earrings
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
- Openwork Drop Earrings with Diamonds and Emeralds 18 Kt Burnished White GoldLocated in Rome, ITDrop-shaped pendant earrings, entirely pierced with emerald pave with a total weight of 16.74 ct and diamonds with a total weight of 1.63 ct. The earrings are in burnished 18 Kt whi...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Drop Earrings
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, White Gold
- Pederzani Signed Earrings for about 10.00 Ct of Diamonds and PearlsBy PederzaniLocated in Rome, ITThe earrings signed by Pederzani, are composed of a flower and a cap set with brilliant-cut and navette-cut diamonds, for about 9.50 ct., With two round pendant pearls measuring abou...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Romantic Drop Earrings
MaterialsDiamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllMore Ways To Browse
Base With Silver Filigree
Carved Hungarian Jewelry
Ysl Disc Earrings
Krypell Diamond Earrings
Angela Cummings Knot
Vintage Earrings Sunburst
Verdura Ear Clips
Ysl Earrings Sunburst
Robert Tiffany Bench
Bvlgari Naturalia Earrings
Lace Sunburst Earrings
Sculpted Coral Earrings
Craft Clip On Earrings
Lapis Tiffany
Intage Signs
Tiffany Taj Mahal Earrings
Vendome Thierry
Arpels Chalcedony Earrings