Antique 18th Century Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendant Earrings Portuguese c. 1770

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Antique 18th Century Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendant Earrings Portuguese c. 1770

About the Item

Extremely Rare Museum Quality Antique 18th Century Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendeloque Pendant Earrings, Portugal, c. 1770, fitted in antique red leather case with golden decorative accents. Each earring is designed with a circular cluster surmount, leading to an openwork French bow a ribbon spacer link, suspending a pear-shaped pave cluster drop, the jewel set throughout with circular, oval, pear, cushion and calibré cut yellowish-green to greenish-yellow chrysoberyl gemstones closed-set in silver. Genuine and original 18th century chrysolite earrings of this style and design are exceedingly rare and highly collectible. Dimensions: 6.1 x 2.7 cm. Gross weight: 39.7g. Tested silver, not marked; partially restored lever-back fittings. For an identical pair of 18th century Portuguese chrysoberyl earrings, see “Oceanos - Ourivesaria Luso-Brasileira do Ciclo do Ouro e dos Diamantes N.43", Lisbon, Comissão Nacional para as Comemorações dos Descobrimentos Portugueses, 2000, page 47. For a similar pair of Portuguese Georgian chrysoberyl earrings, see d'Orey, Leonor, "Five Centuries of Jewellery", permanent exhibition of the National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon, Zwemmer Publishers Limited, 1995, page 85. For similar pairs of Portuguese Georgian chrysoberyl earrings, see Scarisbrick, Diana, “The S. J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal”, London, Sotheby’s, S.J.Phillips, 2017, page 43, 61 and 72. One of the most desirable 18th century earring designs for night wear was the bow-drop earrings called the pendeloque. It was characterized by a top (either round or marquise-shaped) connected to a figural bow supporting a drop usually of a similar design to the top. Its outline was often elongated and slightly exaggerated, probably to offset the extremely high hairstyles of the 1770s. In the Iberian (Portuguese and Spanish) antiques world, “crisólita” is a very popular gemstone. This late-18th century misnomer in Portugal and Brazil, also referred to as “oriental chrysolite”, corresponds to greenish-yellow chrysoberyl, a mineral that was named after its transparency and color, from the Greek “chrysos” (meaning “gold”) and "berullos" (meaning “transparency”). This gemstone became very popular in Portuguese and Brazilian jewelry on the last third of the 1700s gaining even more importance in the early 1800s, following the discovery of significant quantities of fine gem quality material in Minas Gerais, Brazil, particularly in the Minas Novas district. Chrysoberyl is, however, better known for its color-changing chromium-bearing variety, alexandrite, the mint-green vanadium-bearing variety and, of course, for its cat's eye varieties, sometimes referred to in the trade as cymophane. This item is in good condition, with marks and scratches consistent with general age and wear. Antique, period and vintage pieces, both signed and unsigned, are being offered as worn. Unless otherwise stated, all weights and quality factors have been graded as mounting permitted and using classic gemology and standard gemological equipment. Assessments related to period of manufacture or geographic origin of gemstones are expert opinions and may differ from the assessments provided by other professionals. Colors in the pictures/videos might slightly differ from the colors in real life. For additional information or clarification, please get in touch and our in-house team of expert GIA Graduate Gemologists and certified Registered Appraisers/Valuers will be happy to help.

Metal:
Silver
Stone:
Chrysoberyl
Stone Cut:
Antique Cushion Cut
Weight:
39.7 g
Dimensions:
Width: 1.07 in (27 mm)Length: 2.41 in (61 mm)
Style:
Georgian
Place of Origin:
Portugal
Period:
1770-1779
Date of Manufacture:
Circa 1770
Condition:
Repaired: Original fittings had some light restoration, given the age of the jewel. Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Lisbon, PT
Reference Number:
Seller: 51/20E1stDibs: LU2150211763782