Georgian Lever-Back Earrings

Georgian jewelry is named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign, which lasted until 1837). A slew of beautiful pieces were produced during the period, and today antique Georgian rings, necklaces and other accessories are coveted by fine jewelry collectors.

There are certain features that distinguish jewelry from this era, including the fact that pieces from the 18th and early 19th centuries were handmade (so don’t let the absence of a maker’s mark lead you to believe otherwise). Antique Georgian jewelry also has a certain “look.” It’s a bit gray because stones were often set in silver, and because stonecutting techniques were not as advanced as they are today, the gems do not possess the level of sparkle to which we have become accustomed.

Intricate metalworking techniques such as repoussé (the hammering of metal into ornate designs) and cannetille (a method of working the gold wire to make it look woven) allowed goldsmiths to really flex their muscles. These gold pieces, either on their own or combined with gemstones, made for highly original and dramatic jewelry. The era also saw pieces with ornately woven strands of human hair.

Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. These were often cut in the shape of a cabochon or teardrop. It was fashionable to combine garnets or rubies with seed pearls. In Georgian diamond rings, popular cuts for diamonds included rose, old mine and table. Around the 1780s, paste jewelry, or hand-cut glass on foil, was used to imitate diamonds.

Browse a collection of antique Georgian diamond rings, earrings, brooches and other authentic Georgian jewelry today on 1stDibs.