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René Boivin "Sliding" Suite, Jacques Bernard

About the Item

This "Sliding" suite of necklace, bracelet and half hoop clip earrings of diamonds and 18K gold by the Parisian firm of René Boivin dates from circa 1975. The torque necklace and hinged bangle are each mounted with four polished bombé slides that shift along the matte sections to reveal fields of pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, and the half hoop earrings are ensuite. An ingenious design of "dual identity" by Jacques Bernard, this Boivin creation of superlative workmanship is a late example of the maison's much sought-after streamlined and timeless jewelry. Product Details: Item #: ER-21757 Artist: René Boivin Country: France Circa: 1975 Dimensions: Bracelet: 6.375" interior circumference; Torque Necklace: 14.00 interior circumference; Earrings: 0.875" length Materials: 102 round brilliant-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 10.30 carats); 18K Gold Gram Weight: 25.9 g Signed: Necklace and bracelet inscribed René Boivin, bracelet with maker's mark and French assay mark, earrings stamped R. Boivin, with French assay marks. Literature: A bracelet from the firm's "sliding" jewel series, introduced in 1975, is pictured in René Boivin, by Françoise Cailles, pp. 366-367. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: After a period of training and guidance under Germaine Boivin and Juliette Moutard, Jacques Bernard assumed the role of designer for René Boivin. Bernard came to Boivin having trained at Cartier, where he had become, according to Françoise Caille's monograph, "one of the 'golden hands' of the profession." Moutard and Bernard, who "immediately understood what was expected of him, and was quick to capture the Boivin spirit", collaborated on such Boivin designs as the cat series, dolphin clip, and jewels in unusual materials such as wood and steel. The beloved "sliding" jewels were among the first that Bernard designed when Moutard took full retirement.

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