Art Nouveau circa 1905, 5.7 Carat Diamond and Pearl Edwardian Pendant Necklace

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Art Nouveau circa 1905, 5.7 Carat Diamond and Pearl Edwardian Pendant Necklace

About the Item

With the completion of New Year’s Eve on December 31st, 1899, a new century had begun – but jewellery and fashion continued the trends which had already arisen within the last few months and even years of the late 19th century. The taste for lavish pieces set with innumerable diamonds in white precious metal, those we know as typical Belle Époque pieces today, only grew intensified. Technical innovation, however, made it possible to refine those white jewels which had been popular even in the last decade of the 19th century. Brooches, tiaras, devant-de-corsages, necklaces: due to the use of platinum, goldsmiths found themselves able to execute these designs much more delicately, since the precious white metal is far harder than gold and thus holds even the most delicate shapes securely. And then of course, Art Nouveau was, by then, established enough to make its way even into the designs of Haute Joaillerie, where it merged with the bows, flowers and foliate scrolls of the garland style. The pendant necklace at hand is a typical piece of the early years of the 20th century. Around 5.70 ct of white diamonds are set in platinum on gold. The largest one, an old mine cut diamond, dates further back in time than the piece itself: when it was commissioned, its first owner seems to have made use of a diamond from an older family heirloom, as was very common at the time. A large natural pearl, which would have been priced at its own weight in diamonds in the years around 1900, completes the piece. The airy, floral curves of the design hint at the influence of Art Nouveau. The pendant is mounted on a fine chain. Its back shows earlier mounts possibly for wear as a brooch; it is quite common for precious pieces to have had interchangeable mounts that allowed its owner multiple possibilities to wear it. Sometime after its creation, as the option became available, the pendant was rhodium-plated, giving it an even brighter appearance. MATERIALS A diamond, old mine cut, approx. 1.20 ct, Wesselton (H), p1 178 diamonds, old European cut and rose cut, approx. 4.50 ct altogether, Top Wesselton (G), si–pi A natural pearl, slightly baroque, approx. 6.00 ct, diameter approx. 9.0 mm / 0.35 in Gold 585/000, resp. 14 karat Platinum 900/000, additionally rhodium-plated DIMENSIONS The pendant 6.4 x 6.8 cm / 2.52 x 2.68 in Overall length (incl. pendant & chain) 60.5 cm / 23.82 in HALLMARKS Recent Latvian hallmarks for 585/000 gold and 900/000 platinum (later additions, not contemporary to the piece) CERTIFICATE Delivery with our house certificate, issued by an art historian, as well as with an independent expertise dated 14th of October 2013. Estimated replacement value: 34.500,- EUR.

Metal:
14k Gold,Platinum,Rhodium
Stone:
Diamond,Pearl
Stone Cut:
Old European Cut
Weight:
24.6 g
Dimensions:
Length: 23.82 in (605 mm)
Style:
Art Nouveau
Place of Origin:
Unknown
Period:
1900-1909
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1905
Condition:
Additions or alterations made to the original: Later rhodium plating, later hallmarks (likely upon import).
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 16-05351stDibs: LU1564211329042