"Caviar Magen David" Star of David Pendant or Fob in Yellow Gold Mazel Tov

This cool, colorful pendant came to us as a pin, but it had no identifying hallmarks, so we're not too sure about its origins. In the 1950s and 1960s, Brazilian jewelers made pieces...

Mechanical watch movements are amazing. Every jeweler has a zillion of them, since the cases are frequently melted for their metal value. Eytan Brandes has always appreciated these tiny marvels and has made a few of them into pendants, but he likes them to be a bit stealthy -- not scream, "HEY! I'm watch guts!" His latest pendant, in 14 karat yellow gold, is a perfect example -- with the border of raised dots -- Eytan's "caviar" pattern -- blends interestingly into the busy landscape of a mechanical watch movement, with its red jewels and steel wheels. This particular movement isn't very old -- it was probably made in the 1990s or thereabouts by Gotham Watch...

Story time! About ten years ago, one of Eytan Brandes' customers bought this enormous quartz at a gem show and asked Eytan to make her a diamond pendant to show it off. Eytan made the pendant, set the diamonds, added a fixed chain, then, well, he dropped the quartz. It didn't break, but it suffered an internal (not surface-reaching) fracture that is more or less visible depending on the angle of the pendant. You can see it in the photos for yourself. Eytan told the client, went back to the original gem dealer, and ordered up another enormous custom-cut quartz. Since the measurements of the new stone were different, he made an entirely new pendant for the new stone and the customer went away happy. Phew. That left Eytan with a big flawed quartz and a big gold pendant. Fast forward to 2022: after years of languishing in the back of the safe, Eytan decided that it would be a shame to deny these two outlandish baubles a chance. He made some changes, though. First, he dipped the pendant in rhodium, turning it white. Then he removed the chain, which oriented the pendant horizontally, and he added a new bale (fashioned from a 1950s white gold wedding band!) so that the pendant now hangs vertically. The 82 diamonds on the halo are all tiny but good quality (G-H color and VS clarity) natural, untreated earth-mined and full cut diamonds with a total weight of 0.40 carats. The four diamonds on the bale are of lower quality (probably more like J-K color and SI clarity), with an estimated total weight of about 0.04 carats. The quartz is a 150 carat...

This one-of-a-kind pendant by Eytan Brandes features a freeform slice of gold, set with a diamond, over a freeform slice of goshenite. Goshenite is a variety of beryl -- basically aquamarine without color. We acquired a little pile of this stuff -- the palest of pale blue and oddly cut -- and were at a loss as to what to do with it until Eytan hit on the idea of setting one of them in a bezel with an oxidized (blackened) inside pan. We love the end result. The swirly pattern of the oxidization plus the faceting plus the minute coloration of the stone combine to give this humble gem a truly unique, shimmery look -- worthy, even, of a hearty "Gosh!" (if anyone actually said "gosh" anymore...) By contrast, the diamond, bezel-set to float in the opening of Eytan's 18 karat gold shard, involves absolutely no hanky-panky. It's an earth-mined, natural and untreated stone weighing 0.04 carats -- a small but high quality sparkler (Eytan rates it G-H color and VS2 clarity). The hand-wrought pulled wire bale is roughly oval-shaped and oversized, since Eytan envisioned his pendant would be paired with beads (which generally require a bigger bale than a chain), but removable. We think our choker-length strand of faceted but rough sapphire...

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