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Etruscan Revival Victorian Enamel 14 Karat Gold Beaded Locket, circa 1870

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  • Victorian Old Mine Cut Diamond Enamel 18 Karat Yellow Gold Locket Pendant
    Located in Philadelphia, PA
    Designed as an oval shaped pendant centering a cross motif comprised of old mine cut diamonds. Belcher set and weighing approximately 0.70 carats total - H/I color with SI clarity. Mounted atop an oval shaped enamel tablet measuring 18.0 x 24.0 mm - transparent ultramarine blue. Glossed over an engraved radial guilloche pattern - exhibiting no loss. Bezel set in an ornately decorated tiered gold surround. Featuring an enamel evil eye pattern throughout. Opaque white and blue - minimal loss. Accented by milgrain, filigree, and granulated detail. Reverse features and oval shaped locket frame measuring 23.0 x 30.0 mm .Centering a photo of a gentleman in a hat with glass cover. Suspending from a similarly decorated looped bale. Tested as 18 karat gold. With maker's mark. Circa: 1870's. Measures: 1 5/16 x 2 1/8 inches. Total weight: 19.5 grams Stock Number: We-11029 A special peek into the careful tact of Victorian craftsmanship, this ornate locket pendant demands attention from all who are lucky enough to see it! Notice the repeated enamel Evil Eye motif as it's an exquisite hallmark of the Grand Period. Known also as the Nazar or Molocchio, this motif was made popular as a result of a rise in European tourism where many witnessed the popular Mediterranean symbol for the first time. Complimenting the classic Ultramarine of the guilloche enamel beneath the diamond cross, the color is often recognized as "Mourning Blue" and is often seen in Mourning jewelry throughout the Victorian era. As stately as the mysterious gentleman preserved behind the locket glass...
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    This Victorian-era Etruscan Revival locket, circa 1870’s-1880’s, opens to reveal the daguerreotype of a young man. Across from it is a blank frame where an additional photo can still be added. The daguerreotype is hand-colored—the man has rosy cheeks and there is a slight blue tinge to the background. The front of the locket features ornate twisted-wire motifs and granulation, typical to the Etruscan Revival period, and there are seed pearls on the front emblem. The original bail can clip onto a larger chain, or a smaller chain can be slid through, so the locket can be styled in multiple ways. Etruscan Revival jewelry has a rich and interesting history. In the early 1800’s there was a large excavation of Etruscan tombs outside of Rome. Within these tombs were pieces of original Etruscan jewelry. The Etruscans were master artisans, they created breathtaking pieces of jewelry through their use of gold wirework and granulation, colored gemstones and glass. The news of the excavation of these tombs, and the treasures contained inside them, spread throughout Europe. Etruscan style jewelry...
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