Items Similar to MiriamHaskell 1926-1929 Shell Glass FauxPearl Crystal Silver Art Deco Sautoir
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 11
MiriamHaskell 1926-1929 Shell Glass FauxPearl Crystal Silver Art Deco Sautoir
About the Item
In the late 1920s during the Art-Deco period, this Miriam Haskell white mostly glass-beaded sautoir was created in New York City by her first designer Frank Hess. This uniquely hand-woven necklace features a Baroque-style pendant with a luminous seashell crown, faux pearls and coral, and iridescent colorless-glass microbeads. Additionally, both edges of the flat-laying white-square beaded necklace are spiked with sparkling small faceted crystals that are each capped with a pearl-color glass end-bead, which was Hess' signature way of intricately decorating wired or strung jewelry.
Along with the distinct twisted-silver toggle necklace fasteners, the glass beads were handcrafted in France by Parisian Louis Rousselet, who was a parurier to Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel since the 1920s when she commissioned ensembles from his workshop for her couture clothing. Only Rousselet could have produced these French-style handmade miniature beads that are uniquely lampworked in a minimal way, which enable the layered, textural, reflective, intricate and overflowing designs of Hess to attract most of the attention.
Another design signature of Hess in this sautoir is the asymmetric pendant surrounded by en-tremblant strands of microbeads that seem to move like tentacles in water. Throughout his decades as head designer for Haskle, Hess repeatedly made jewelry with seashell, oyster and coral elements, while this seems to have been among his earliest using these motifs and so is priced accordingly. The necklace, without a metal backing on the pendant, was made prior to the 1930s. During that decade, Hess added a solid plate to hide and better protect delicate or non-decorative attachments like string or wire.
No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947. Fortunately, this much-earlier sautoir is extraordinarily characteristic of Hess motifs and design, along with its identifiable Parisian-produced materials dating to the 1920s. Like this necklace, some of the earliest costume-jewelry by Haskle-Hess feature the most intricate designs and include the tiniest glass beads among those that they used while working together for decades.
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Dimensions:Width: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)Depth: 1 in (25.4 mm)Diameter: 6.25 in (158.75 mm)Length: 18.5 in (469.9 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1926-1929
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244218611732
About the Seller
5.0
Gold Seller
Premium sellers maintaining a 4.3+ rating and 24-hour response times
Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
24 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 4 hours
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Shipping from: North Adams, MA
- Return Policy
Authenticity Guarantee
In the unlikely event there’s an issue with an item’s authenticity, contact us within 1 year for a full refund. DetailsMoney-Back Guarantee
If your item is not as described, is damaged in transit, or does not arrive, contact us within 7 days for a full refund. Details24-Hour Cancellation
You have a 24-hour grace period in which to reconsider your purchase, with no questions asked.Vetted Professional Sellers
Our world-class sellers must adhere to strict standards for service and quality, maintaining the integrity of our listings.Price-Match Guarantee
If you find that a seller listed the same item for a lower price elsewhere, we’ll match it.Trusted Global Delivery
Our best-in-class carrier network provides specialized shipping options worldwide, including custom delivery.More From This Seller
View AllCouture 1930s ElsaSchiaparelliStyle FuchsiaFauxRubyGoldGlassBeads Tassel Sautoir
Located in Chicago, IL
Elsa Schiaparelli famously embraced "shocking pink" for her Surrealist-aesthetic couture clothing and handcrafted costume jewelry, which she commissioned from Parisian paruriers beginning in the late 1920s--when some of the most expensive gems were fuchsia Burmese rubies. In this antique glass-beaded sautoir tassel necklace, 37 unusual fuchsia faux-pearls are each delicately caged like hot-air balloons by seven textural strands of faux-pearl-and-gold seed beads. These spherical stations are spaced by lustrous white medium-size faux pearls, ending in a four-strand seed-bead tassel that cages four of the fuchsia beads. The beads are strung on bright magenta silk cord without a clasp.
Sautoirs were an essential element of flapper style since Schiaparelli's couture-mentor Paul Poiret changed the silhouette of clothing in the 1920s, while the long necklaces remained popular until wartime 1939.
To compete with her rival couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Schiaparelli (1890-1973) relied on the same French glassmakers, Maison Gripoix and Louis Rousselet--the masters of faux pearls at the time who added organic-ingredient coatings to their handmade glass beads. Either glass workshop that was established by the 1920s could have been commissioned to make the progressive hot-pink pearls for this unsigned necklace that dates to the Art-Deco period.
The design of this highly-textural tricolor sautoir featuring fuchsia spheres could suit the style of one of Schiaparelli's most frequent paruriers through the 1930s, Jean Clement. Some of his relevant unsigned work for Schiaparelli is in museum collections like The Met, including highly-textural tricolor sphere-decorated buttons/brooches and a fuchsia-toned metal-rosebud bead necklace.
After Schiaparelli had become associated with fuchsia, she made particularly prolific use of this bright magenta in the late 1930s. In her demi-couture collections such as "Circus" and "Comedia del' Arte" (see our 3 photos), fuchsia jackets are adorned with similar colorful spherical glass beads among embroidered appliques and animal/clown brooches, as well as whimsical painted-ceramic buttons...
Category
Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Pendant Necklaces
Materials
Pearl, Gold
Antique ArtNouveau European FauxLampwork Glass Flora CherryBlossom Long Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
With a silver clasp that could be as old as the Victorian period and in an Art-Nouveau style with pale intricate flora motifs, this antique long glass necklace features lampwork-like...
Category
Vintage 1920s Austrian Art Nouveau Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Silver
MiriamHaskell Early SignatureGrapeCluster GlassPearl 1920s Pendant Necklace
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Featuring the earliest white-swirled glass and enameled faux-pearl round beads handcrafted by Parisian lampwork-master Louis Rousselet for American entrepreneur Miriam Haskell and he...
Category
Vintage 1920s American Baroque Revival Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Pearl, Silver
Antique HandPressed Glass European GoldFiligreeCapped Beaded Heavy Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique rare hand-pressed-glass necklace features semi-translucent grape-green large beads that are capped with gilt-brass filigree. Based on the combination of bead seams, spring-ring clasp, and metal findings on the unmarked faux Chinese-jade necklace, it dates to the late Victorian period most likely from Western Europe.
Around WWI, hand presses, which stamped molten glass into a mold to create a bead with a hole and a seam, were often used to produce costume jewelry as a cottage industry in Germany and the Czech region. This was while there was a lack of factory machine presses and finishing tumblers that used sand to polish out the seam lines.
Another reason that the cloudy green beads can be identified as atypically hand-pressed is that they are more opaque and therefore harder and less prone to breaking during formation than fully-translucent glass, which was better suited for automated-machine pressing. Also the green beads are an unusual swirled color including white, which suggests that their production was more limited than machine-pressing would enable.
Without the bead-seams, this necklace could be mistaken for one by Coco Chanel. Her 1920s couture...
Category
Early 20th Century German Late Victorian Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Gold, Brass, Gilt Metal
MiriamHaskell 1930s Torsade Set GiltFiligreeCapped FauxPearls Earrings & Choker
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
During the Art Deco period, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess designed this blue-and-white glass-beaded hand-sewn torsade set of dangle earrings and a choker necklace, whose knotted string is capped with their characteristic Russian-gilt brass flora filigree. Coinciding with the American Great Depression, to offer some less expensive costume jewelry than her initial ready-to-wear styles featuring Parisian hand-crafted materials found in French couture, Haskell reduced the cost of some of her findings by locally sourcing stamped metal and incorporating hand-pressed glass beads from Germany and Czechoslovakia.
With a loop, the line from hand pressing the glass can only be found on the blue beads, while the white ones are coated in an organic material like authentic French faux pearls. The ends of the textured cords that string the beaded set were frayed to form a fuzzy opaque dome that hides the knots attached to the filigree caps.
No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947. The unsigned necklace...
Category
Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Brass, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold
$970 / set
Free Shipping
WesternGermany 1950s CherryRed MoldFacetedBead FlowerClasp DoubleStrand Necklace
Located in Chicago, IL
Stamped "Western Germany" on the gold-tone underside of its box clasp, this double-strand long necklace with cherry-red beads and decorative clasp features the reflective glossy face...
Category
Vintage 1950s German Modern Multi-Strand Necklaces
Materials
Gold, Gilt Metal, Mixed Metal
You May Also Like
Rosario White Pearl Necklace Cross Crucifix Virgin Mary 14 Karat Gold
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Rosario White Pearl Necklace Cross Crucifix Virgin Mary 14 Karat Gold
Length around the neck is 61 cm and total drop down length is 39 cm
Symbols or medals can become a powerful t...
Category
2010s American Victorian Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Pearl Rosario Necklace Gold Virgin Mary Cross
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Rosario Necklace Pearl Gold Virgin Mary Cross
Length around the neck is 24" ( 61 cm ) and total drop down length is 15" ( 39 cm)
Symbols or medals can bec...
Category
2010s American Victorian Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Champagne Mystic Moonstone Necklace Conchina Druzy Pendant
By Karen Sugarman Designs
Located in Colleyville, TX
Maisie Necklace.
Champagne Mystic Moonstone faceted rondelle beads, with their gentle and subtle range of colors from champagne to peach to soft gray...
Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Artisan Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Moonstone, Vermeil, Sterling Silver
Keishi Pearls Kyanite Rock Crystal Georgian Enamel Silver Paste Necklace
By Karen Sugarman Designs
Located in Colleyville, TX
Ayla Necklace.
Freshwater keishi pearls, with their gorgeous silky nacre, have been hand-linked with rhodium silver and juxtaposed with a jaw dropping Georgian Enamel Silver Paste Pendant. The rich cobalt blue enameled disc has been encased within a silver paste cartouche frame and accented with a feminine silver paste basket of flowers. Three little teardrops dangle from below the ornate frame. This unique necklace has been married to a frilled section of hand-linked rock crystal and kyanite rondelles and further enhanced with a grouping of pink sapphire flanked with pyrite in gold vermeil. The gold vermeil is repeated again as the delicate pendant is suspended from a twist faceted rock crystal teardrop with hand coiled gold vermeil loops.
Certain to appeal to any lover of Georgian era jewelry...
Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Georgian Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Crystal, Cultured Pearl, Sapphire, Vermeil, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
$960 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping
Pink Tourmaline Rose Quartz Georgian Paste Polka Dot Enamel Heart Locket
By Karen Sugarman Designs
Located in Colleyville, TX
Micheline Necklace.
Delicate pink tourmaline has been bezel set in oxidized silver and intercepted with marquise cut rose quartz, flanked with seed pearls and crystal rondelles. The beautiful confectionary coloring of the stones repeats the stunning Georgian paste locket...
Category
Antique 19th Century American Georgian Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Quartz, Tourmaline, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
$1,148 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping
Marina J. Peridot and Pearl Woven Sautoir with 14k Diamond Encrusted Tassel
By Marina J.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Beautiful piece by Marina J. This piece was created using all Cultured White Pearls woven together with gorgeous Faceted Peridot beads. The Peridot beads display a vibrant Spring Green color whose translucency radiates when hit with light. Measuring 33.75 inches long sans Tassel, this beautiful Sautoir is adjustable and meets at a 14k Yellow Gold decorative Ring...
Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Artisan Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllMore Ways To Browse
Chanel Flats Used
Chanel Crown
Spiked Flats
Silver Chanel Gabrielle
Chanel Iridescent White
Rolex Platinum Ice
Rolex Prince 1930
Rolex Pyramid Bezel
Rolex Sea Dweller 16600
Rolex Sea Dweller No Date
Rolex Serial 16233
Rolex Style Necklace
Rolex Submariner 126610ln 41mm
Rolex Tritium Lume
Rolex Vintage Cap
Rolex Wallets
Rolex Watch Emblem
Rolex Watch With Colored Stones