Neha Dani Blue Zircon with Sapphire, Tourmaline, Diamond Irene Necklace

Neha Dani is a bit of an anomaly in the jewelry world. At a time when technology has enabled makers to speed up processes and increase their production, Dani takes a deliberate approach. First, she makes a sketch, which is turned into a wax carving, and then she begins searching for the right stones — a process that can take years.

As a result, Dani only produces about 15 to 20 pieces annually. The singular quality of her work has made her one of the industry’s buzziest talents — and earned her the distinction of being the only contemporary jewelry designer whose work is carried by New York’s Macklowe Gallery.

“I was always intrigued with my mom’s jewelry box and was fascinated with the intricacies and minute details that go into jewelry making,” the Delhi-based Dani tells The Study, explaining the roots of her interest in design.

She went on to study and develop her craft at the Gemological Institute of America and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, eventually starting her own line. In doing so, she defied cultural and familial pressures to eschew a career and concentrate on being a wife and mother, instead proving that she could get married and have a family while still pursuing her dream.

While Dani’s gender might have made her path more challenging, it also gives her an edge as a designer. “Being a woman, I can feel and understand femininity like the person who will wear my work,” she says. “It helps me in my expression of my designs, as my pieces are definitely bold yet quite feminine and delicate.”

Browse a growing collection of Neha Dani's jewelry on 1stDibs.