1950s Jewelry
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Period: 1950s
Style: Byzantine
1950sRobertGoosensStyle CastOakLeafTalisman BaroqueFauxPearls GoldChain Sautoir
Located in Chicago, IL
While contracted as an independent craftsman to create one-of-a-kind costume jewelry for French Masion Degorce from 1953 until it closed in 1957, Parisian goldsmith Robert Goosens (1927-2016) was initially commissioned by Gabriel "Coco" Chanel to craft one-of-a-kind Byzantine-style long decorative-chain necklaces with multiple charms made of metal and filigree-or-sculptural-prong-capped glass faux pearls, while she intended to layer many of them to accessorize her couture clothing for clients and herself.
Relevant to the unclear designer of our vintage 9-pendant ribbed-chain sautoir with an unsigned gold-gilt silver barrel clasp and five unique kinds of intricately textured vermeil and baroque-faux-pearl charms, a similar lost-wax-cast center pendant with three-lobed-foliate prongs also in the shape of oak leaves can be seen in the book (p.28), Bijoux de Haute Couture: Collection Robert Goossens, by Gilles Plazy and Chantal Bizot published in Paris in 2000. The same year, that Chanel-signed pendant necklace was auctioned by Christie's in a lot including an unsigned long chain sautoir also attributed to Chanel. Further, another 1stDibs dealer currently has a $12,500 listing for an unsigned but book-published early-1950s faux-pearl sautoir for Chanel that also features intricate pinecone talismans like ours, but decorated with poured glass and crystals crafted by Maison Gripoix.
When Chanel relaunched her post-war business ventures, Goosens soon became her favorite parurier before founding his eponymous Maison Goosens, whose venerable workshop later designed metal work for its own jewelry-and-furnishings brand Goosens Paris.
Notably, Chanel did not add a brand signature to costume jewelry until the late 1950s, while some pieces prior to this by multiple paruriers are documented to lack any identification that Chanel was earlier known to stamp such as "France", "Made In France" and/or "Depose". Recently, a similar unsigned/unmarked longer chain sautoir with fewer filigree-and-pearl pendants that was believed to be by Robert Goosens for Chanel...
Category
French Byzantine Vintage 1950s Jewelry
Materials
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A large topaz paste necklace and earrings, Christian Dior by Mitchel Maer, c1954
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
An outstanding and highly unusual necklace and matching earrings, made by Mitchel Maer for Christian Dior. Clear bright topaz coloured pastes are set in softly gilded metal to create...
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18ct 750 Gold Vintage 16" Chain
Located in London, GB
18ct 750 Gold Italian Vintage Chain
Stamped 750
Beautiful condition
Category
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Maison Gripoix for Chanel Long Ornate Byzantine Chain
Located in New York, NY
Completely handmade Maison Gripoix for Chanel long elaborate Byzantine link chain of gold plated bronze flexible chain accented with dozens of emerald and pale sapphire...
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Hattie Carnegie Vintage Enamel Rhinestone Glass Pin Or Pendant & Earrings Set
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This vintage set of signed Hattie Carnegie enamel clip on earrings and small pin and or pendant is reminiscent of a bygone era of Elizabethan meets byzantine influence. The colors ar...
Category
American Byzantine Vintage 1950s Jewelry
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CoCo Chanel Pate De Verre Poured Byzantine Glass Belt, Workshop Maison Gripoix
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Coco Chanel Byzatine style segmented belt of poured glass elements in signature ruby and emerald pate de verre glass links. 1950's France, made by Stu...
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French Byzantine Vintage 1950s Jewelry
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Chanel Turquoise and Floral Filigree Earclips
By Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Chanel classic earclips of faux turquoise pate de verre cabochons set in gilt bronze floral filigree, hand set with pastes by studio Goossens. The styl...
Category
French Byzantine Vintage 1950s Jewelry
Materials
Gold Plate, Bronze, Gilt Metal
Roger Jean-Pierre Long French Aurora and Crystal Depose Brooch
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Glamorous Roger Jean Pierre French brooch clip from the 1950's with aurora and clear crystal paste stones. The fur clip is attached to a tiered elem...
Category
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Materials
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Chanel Lion Head Safety Pin Brooch, Maison Goossens
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
Coco Chanel synthesizes her favorite "Go To" motifs into one brooch. The lion (her Astrological sign), the Kilt Pin (her visits to the Scottish Highlands) and the gilt Baroque of her...
Category
French Byzantine Vintage 1950s Jewelry
Materials
Gilt Metal, Gold Plate, Brass, Bronze
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