Paul Flato 1940s Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Cocktail Ring

Paul Flato’s flamboyant style was matched by his larger-than-life personality. He created daring and theatrical jewelry that challenged the conservative conventions of adornment. Works like his Bird of Paradise and Feather Quill brooches and his Seashell pocket watch exemplify his audacious style while reflecting his meticulous craftsmanship. His clients included celebrities such as French-American opera singer Lily Pons, American artist and socialite Gloria Vanderbilt and American actresses Joan Crawford and Mae West.

Flato was born in 1900 into a ranching family in Shiner, Texas. He later attended the University of Texas at Austin as a pre-med student, but soon shifted focus and enrolled at Columbia University in New York City to study economics. With the help of some well-connected friends — including one at Tiffany & Co. — he opened a jewelry store on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. 

His business steadily grew, and he sold over $1 million worth of jewelry by the time he was 27. While he had a great mind for unique ideas, he enlisted the talents of more experienced jewelers for support in drafting the pieces. In 1938, Flato opened a second store in Hollywood, California. His pieces were large and eye-catching, making them perfect for the camera. 

In 1943, Flato’s jewelry career came to an abrupt halt with larceny charges for consigning a 17-carat diamond that went missing. When he was unable to pay the consignors, they pressed charges. Flato spent 18 months in Sing Sing prison. After his release, Flato he eased back into the trade by producing pens and compact cases for makeup. Poor financial decisions led again to his falling on the wrong side of the law and he fled to South America. He ended up serving four years in a Mexican prison before being sent back to the United States to serve a five-year sentence for grand larceny.

In 1970, Flato returned to Mexico and opened a boutique in Zona Rosa, Mexico City. He spent the last 20 years of his career there, fashioning bold and bright jewelry, inspired by the indigenous culture of the country. 

In 1990, Flato moved back to Texas where he died in 1999. His outlandishly imaginative pieces remain in demand with collectors today.

On 1stDibs, enjoy the wondrous imagination of Paul Flato through his brooches, watches, bracelets and more.