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Jean Després Silver and Coral Ring

About the Item

Designed and made by hand by Jean Després in the 1930s, this silver ring is set with a square coral within a gold surround flanked by silver rolls and tiers of descending ring turned cylinders. Beautifully engineered to balance lightly on the hand, this pure streamlined form represents Després' unique modernist vision for jewelry. Product Details: Item #: R-21513 Artist: Jean Després Country: France Circa: 1930s Size: 5 (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information) Materials: Coral; Silver Signed: J Despres, J Deespres maker's mark, French silver assay mark Literature: A ring of this design, from the collection of Andy Warhol sold by Sotheby's in 1988, is pictured in Jean Després: Bijoutier et Orfèvre etre Art Deco et moderne, Melissa Gabardi, p. 106. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: Després' experience as a mechanic of airplane engine parts in World War I informed his practice as a jewelry designer throughout his career. His work celebrated machine forms, while at the same time it was fully handmade by the artist himself, an inherent irony making his jewelry more complex. Andy Warhol, whose spent his career exploring the juxtapositions and ironies of commerce and the human experience in his art, was an avid collector of Després.

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Jean Després and Étienne Cournault French Modernist "Bijoux-Glace" Ring
By Jean Despres
Located in New York, NY
Composed of silver, lacquer and reverse painted and engraved crystal, this exceptional ring was a collaboration of two French modernist artists, Després and Cornault. The ring centers a glass crystal prism above a polychrome abstract-design painting in miniature by Cornault, mounted by Després within a silver and black lacquer surround, flanked by stepped and incised chevron form shoulders with subtle dark patination. Uniting an intriguing abstract painting with the geometry of interlocking planes and layered strata, this rare ring is powerful work of painterly and sculptural modernism. Product Details: Item #: R-21132 Artist: J Després and E Cornault Country: France Circa: 1930 Size: 6.75 (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information) Materials: Glace peinte/Reverse-painted crystal; Black lacquer; Silver Signed: "J. Desprès", "JD" maker's mark, French guarantee stamp for silver. Provenance: Given by the artist to his niece, and by descent in her family. Exhibition History: "Étienne Cournault (1891-1948)" at Musées de la Cour d’Or à Metz, 25 June to 24 October 1994. This ring was presented as number 94 in the exhibition catalogue. Literature: This ring appears in "Jean Després; Jeweller, Maker and Designer of the Machine Age", Thames & Hudson, 2009, by Melissa Gabardi, on p. 197. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: This important ring is one of a small group of “Bijoux-Glaces” or “Mirror Jewels”. These jewels represent the collaboration between two French Modernist artists, Étienne Cournault (1891-1948) and Jean Després (1889-1980). Cournault was from Lorraine, and had been educated at L’Ecole de Nancy in graphic and applied arts. He was active in Paris as a painter, draughtsman, and print maker in the 1920s. Moreover, he was the premier practitioner of the rarified technique of reverse painting on crystal, which he elevated from a traditional decorative art by creating intriguing miniature paintings of Surrealist and Cubist inspiration. Cournault met Després, an accomplished silversmith who moved in the circle of Modligiani, de Chirico, Braque and Signac, when Jacques Doucet commissioned the artists to complete an ornate metal table...
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