1920s Vacheron Constantin 18kt Sector Dial Claw Lug Officers Cushion Wristwatch

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1920s Vacheron Constantin 18kt Sector Dial Claw Lug Officers Cushion Wristwatch

About the Item

A Historical and limited production 1920-1930s Art Deco Vacheron Constantin World War Two Military Officer's Design Concept Wristwatch with Enamel Hand Painted Fancy Yellow Dial & Tuxedo Style Arabic Sector Numerals     Basic Specifications & Case Dimensions  - 31mm height X 31mm width, 8mm thickness  - Special Order Fancy Yellow Dial with black outer register markers and hand painted enamel Tuxedo Style Arabic numerals located at 12,3,6,& 9, outer minute track and subsidiary dial complication found at the 6 - Special Case design for Officers Wristwatches compared to other variations with: Bold Crab Claw Lug design which extend outward from the dial on either side of the strap rather than more common downturn lugs - Fully Signed Case, Dial, Movement - 12 Jewel, Caliber 10.5” Straight Line Lever - Three body polished Cushion case with bold crab claw lugs, known as an Officer’s Watch - Perfect working condition, recently serviced   Catalog Note & The Cushion Case Design Concept The present watch is a very limited commission with rarity on a variety of levels from the case design to the dial and from the vintage it was produced to the maker whom created it.   To discuss and understand how rare it is we break it down first by the shape of the case design. The Cushion Shaped case designs are probably one of the rarest case designs to collect as a genre of all wristwatches since this shape was produced for the shortest period of time when compared to the rectangular wristwatch shape precursor and the Calatrava or round case designs wristwatches today which are most commonly thought of. From the 1900s to the 1930s Watch manufacturers were developing case designs for the functional use at war, as well as, for style as the case designs moved past the 1930s. The first wristwatch case designs were typically rectangular and nicknamed trench watches later on as the industry became more focused on waterproofing the case design so it would be more durable. This was one of the inventions Rolex has been accredited so famous for generally speaking in the beginning of the 20th century horology.   From there, rectangular case designs were replaced with the cushion case designs as the present example is designed with, which is the most limited case design shapes ever produced as watch manufacturers only designed wristwatches in this shape for about a 10 years or less period from the 1920s to early 1930s and are commonly referred to as Officer’s watches whom were given these timepieces for their victories during the world wars. Afterwards the Calatrava was designed which is the round case design the world so famously envisions when thinking about a wristwatch shape. During this World War Two timeframe, a very limited number of Officer’s watches have been produced by each of the top makers of the timeframe as they would be commissioned for the elite officers for their military achievements and victories at war by the country’s leaders and 18kt yellow gold being even more premier vs steel as gold had a very high premium especially. The present example by Vacheron Constantin, similar to its best known competitor of the period Patek Philippe has produced some of the most beautiful and sought after examples of all officers watches from this era especially, with select examples being highly personalized more so than most tother brands with options for rare special order features that separate officers watches apart from one another like the individuals who were being gifted them in the battle fields of war. The present example is a highly unique example of an Officers watch for several reasons especially, when compared to other officer’s watches of which already so few exist for several reasons mentioned below First like all other Officers wristwatches of the 1920s it possesses the iconic cushion case design shape, however the present Vacheron Constantin example is uniquely different as it is designed with a special-order lug design called crab claw lugs. This design differs from the typical lug design shape commonly found on an officer’s watch known as straight downturned lugs which most other brands are designed with. In true Vacheron Constantin style, it is also by no surprise that such a beautiful officers watch was commissioned by their firm as Vacheron Constantin is best thought of for designing mens wristwatches with a higher sense of fashion and of bolder sense style with their case designs than all other leading watch brands placing a twist on the common traditional design to add their own individuality which is clearly on full display by this present example. Ultimately, making the present example stand out from all other officer’s watches of this period as a result. In addition to the very rare lugs, which give it an extra sleek and boldly noticeable appearance when when worn on the wrist as a result of the sharp 90 degree angles the lugs face outward at from the body, the present timepiece also is extremely collectible against other examples as it is designed with a special order fancy yellow dial with was commissioned in very limited production. This element is also extremely unique since the majority of officers watches typically appear with white dials and or metallic dials and very few are known to exist in yellow during this period, further suggesting the present example was especially commissioned for an extremely important and victorious military officer given all the specialized attention to its design. Finally, as one reviews the numerals it is also obvious that the dial is very unique compared to other officer’s watches not just because it is a yellow dial, but also because it has hand painted black enamel Arabic tuxedo style sector dial numerals. This is indicated by the appearance of only the numbers 12, 3, 6, & 9 present and a final special order of blue steel tinted baton hands rather than basic black hands, so that as light hits it the hands change color from black to steel blue in certain lighting making this piece thought out on every possible way and with this unique numbering system suggests that this very rare timepiece was likely commissioned for an elite military aviator or high ranking general battle field surgeon during this timeframe given its ability to reveal the time quickly at a glance which would have been necessary for quick timing decisions or to save someone’s life. Additionally, important to note, the present timepiece is in perfect working condition and has been recently serviced. The signatures on the dial are bold and the case are sharp throughout indicating the timepiece has been well preserved through two world wars and rarely worn given its nearly 100 year old age making it a true trophy piece for even the most seasoned of collectors. For additional questions, photos or video please do not hesitate to ask.

Creator:
Vacheron Constantin
Metal:
18k Gold
Dimensions:
Height: 1.23 in (31 mm)Width: 1.23 in (31 mm)
Style:
Art Deco
Place of Origin:
Switzerland
Period:
1920-1929
Date of Manufacture:
1920-1930s
Condition:
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU121239949112

Shop All Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin

Iconic Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin was among the first brands to embrace the Geneva Seal and is the oldest watch producer in the world that is still in operation. Vintage Vacheron Constantin watches continue to charm and captivate collectors near and far, and the manufacturer’s Maltese cross logo, adopted in 1877, is instantly recognizable as an emblem of luxurious design and enduring quality.

Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the son of a master weaver in Geneva who instilled in his children his belief that working with one’s hands is a noble endeavor. Jean-Marc took his father’s convictions to heart and opened his watchmaking workshop at the age of 24. The watchmaker made custom watches for royalty and flourished as an innovator in its field.

Vacheron Constantin functioned as a family business for several decades after Jean-Marc’s death. His grandson, Jacques-Barthélemy, took over the business in 1810 and promptly realized that he would need support in order to expand the company’s reach as well as oversee production. He searched for a partner who was versed in international business and who had a fondness for watches — and he found it in successful businessman François Constantin, who became his associate in 1819.

Constantin was born to a merchant in Geneva. From a young age, he traveled extensively and honed his business skills, fast becoming a venerable merchant himself. Shortly after joining Vacheron, Constantin coined the company's motto, "Do better if possible, and that is always possible." These words continue to guide the brand to this day.

Since becoming known as Vacheron & Constantin in 1819 — and later, Vacheron Constantin — the company has enjoyed international acclaim for everything from jewelry watches to provocative shaped designs, and its alluring timepieces are highly sought after by antique and vintage watch enthusiasts.

Widely loved models designed by Vacheron Constantin include the sporty Overseas and the Patrimony, while a number of Vacheron Constantin watches hold world records. A vintage pocket watch previously owned by King Fuad I of Egypt is one of the most expensive watches ever sold at auction. Another watch — the Reference 57260 pocket watch — has 57 complications and took eight years to build. In 2022 Vacheron Constantin exhibited a selection of its rarely seen mid-century watches in its New York City flagship store. Since the 1990s, the company has been a subsidiary of the Swiss Richemont Group.

Find a range of Vacheron Constantin pocket watches, wristwatches and bracelets on 1stDibs.