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A Regency Cannetille Gem-set Cross Brooch
A Regency Cannetille Gem-set Cross Brooch

A Regency Cannetille Gem-set Cross Brooch

Located in London, GB

A Regency cannetille gem-set cross brooch, to the centre a rectangular-cut emerald estimated to weigh 0.9 carats, surrounded by eight rectangular-cut rubies and eight old mine-cut di...

Category

Antique Early 19th Century English Regency Brooches

Materials

18k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

  • 1
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Ruby Mine Cut For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact ruby mine cut you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from Gold, 18k Gold and Platinum — can elevate any look. You can easily find a 48 antique edition and 9 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect ruby mine cut may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. For this particular piece, 2 Carat and 2.5 Carat are consistently popular carat weights. Today, if you’re looking for an old mine cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes cushion cut and old european cut alternatives. When shopping for a ruby mine cut, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.

How Much is a Ruby Mine Cut?

The price for a ruby mine cut starts at $550 and tops out at $38,800 with these rings, on average, selling for $3,995.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in. 

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Questions About Ruby Mine Cut

  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    A mine cut diamond is an antique diamond cut known for its bulky and often uneven shape, cutlet, and tiny table. This type of diamond cut was quite popular in the mid-1800s to the early-1900s
    Mine cut diamonds are typically called OLD MINE CUTS, This type of cutting started in the early 1700s. The shapes are typically cushion shape and the cutting was done all by hand. Though they do not have the sparkle of modern cut diamonds, when they sparkle in sunlight or candle light, they have this beautiful alluring shimmer.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Mine cut diamonds are up to 300 years ago. Mine cut diamonds were popular around the 18th century during Victorian times and are still in high demand today. You’ll find a wide selection of mine cut diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertOctober 19, 2021
    The best cut for rubies is a matter of personal choice. An oval cut is the most preferred cut for ruby; this is because an oval cut reduces waste. The cut should show off this stone’s color and clarity. According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and that the stone should be clear and inclusion free. Find a collection of ruby jewelry on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    A cabochon cut ruby is a ruby featuring an unfaceted cut. Instead, the surface is curved and polished, for a look that especially highlights the beauty of more opaque rubies. Browse a collection of mesmerizing cabochon cut rubies from top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    An emerald cut ruby is held in a double-claw setting, surrounded by a border of diamonds. The diamonds provide a beautiful contrast with the red of the ruby. Shop a selection of dazzling emerald cut rubies from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Because the old mine cut is no longer used on diamonds, diamonds with this cut are rare and so you can often get quite a lot of money for them. Nevertheless, it is still dependent on the quality of the individual diamonds and on the color, clarity, cut and carat number.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Old mine cut diamonds are usually worth less than old european cut diamonds. Because they are generally 10-15% less expensive, they are often larger than other cut diamonds for engagement rings.
  • Like any other diamond, an old mine cut diamond's worth depends on a variety of factors. These factors include the 4C's (color, clarity, cut, carat), the overall beauty and "make" of the stone, the demand, supply, etc. On average however, old mine cuts are typically priced slightly lower (around 5-10%) than modern cut diamonds.