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Sapphire Diamond Floral Necklace White Gold Possibly American Late 20th Century
Sapphire Diamond Floral Necklace White Gold Possibly American Late 20th Century

Sapphire Diamond Floral Necklace White Gold Possibly American Late 20th Century

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century American Modern Link Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold

Vintage Diamond and Black Enamel 18K Yellow Gold 1970s Drop Hoop Earrings
Vintage Diamond and Black Enamel 18K Yellow Gold 1970s Drop Hoop Earrings

Vintage Diamond and Black Enamel 18K Yellow Gold 1970s Drop Hoop Earrings

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Vintage 1970s Modern Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Mid-century"Boule de Genève" 18mm Swiss Orb Watch Necklace Pendant by Heno
Mid-century"Boule de Genève" 18mm Swiss Orb Watch Necklace Pendant by Heno

Mid-century"Boule de Genève" 18mm Swiss Orb Watch Necklace Pendant by Heno

Located in Van Nuys, CA

The clean white dial is set with minimalist gold-tone baton hour markers and matching hands, signed "Heno" and "17 Jewels." Measures: 18MM United States, 1960

Category

Vintage 1960s Swiss Mid-Century Modern Collectible Jewelry

Materials

Gold Plate

Art Deco Pink Tourmaline Diamond Pave Bombe Cocktail Ring Platinum 1930s
Art Deco Pink Tourmaline Diamond Pave Bombe Cocktail Ring Platinum 1930s

Art Deco Pink Tourmaline Diamond Pave Bombe Cocktail Ring Platinum 1930s

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Vintage 1930s Art Deco Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Tourmaline, Platinum

Contemporary Three-Finger Marquise Pear Brilliant Diamond Ring 18K White Gold
Contemporary Three-Finger Marquise Pear Brilliant Diamond Ring 18K White Gold

Contemporary Three-Finger Marquise Pear Brilliant Diamond Ring 18K White Gold

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Vintage Certified Natural Sapphire Diamond Cluster Cocktail Ring English 1970s
Vintage Certified Natural Sapphire Diamond Cluster Cocktail Ring English 1970s

Vintage Certified Natural Sapphire Diamond Cluster Cocktail Ring English 1970s

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Vintage 1970s British Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold

Bulgari Bvlgari Parentesi Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Band Ring with Original Box
Bulgari Bvlgari Parentesi Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Band Ring with Original Box

Bulgari Bvlgari Parentesi Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Band Ring with Original Box

By Bulgari

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Giovanni Ferraris Colorless Black Diamonds Italian 18K White Gold Bombé Ring
Giovanni Ferraris Colorless Black Diamonds Italian 18K White Gold Bombé Ring

Giovanni Ferraris Colorless Black Diamonds Italian 18K White Gold Bombé Ring

By Giovanni Ferraris

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Black Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Tudor Rolex ref 7966 Prince-OysterDate Rose Logo Automatic Mens' Watch, c1959.
Tudor Rolex ref 7966 Prince-OysterDate Rose Logo Automatic Mens' Watch, c1959.

Tudor Rolex ref 7966 Prince-OysterDate Rose Logo Automatic Mens' Watch, c1959.

Located in MELBOURNE, AU

This vintage Tudor Rolex ref 7966 Prince-Oysterdate is from 1959, yet it’s in a beautiful original condition & in excellent working order Featuring an iconic & instantly recogniza...

Category

Vintage 1950s Swiss Retro Wrist Watches

Materials

Stainless Steel

Antique POR BEM Diamond Pearl Enamel Yellow Gold Brooch Portuguese 19th Century
Antique POR BEM Diamond Pearl Enamel Yellow Gold Brooch Portuguese 19th Century

Antique POR BEM Diamond Pearl Enamel Yellow Gold Brooch Portuguese 19th Century

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Portuguese Baroque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Enamel

Pentti Sarpaneva Bronze Shield Pendant Necklace with Blood Jasper, 1960s
Pentti Sarpaneva Bronze Shield Pendant Necklace with Blood Jasper, 1960s

Pentti Sarpaneva Bronze Shield Pendant Necklace with Blood Jasper, 1960s

By Pentti Sarpaneva

Located in Esbjerg, DK

Both the chain and pendant are made from solid bronze and features a blood red jaspis center jewel. Signed: Sarpaneva, Finland to the backside of the pendant.

Category

Vintage 1960s Finnish Scandinavian Modern Collectible Jewelry

Materials

Bronze

Messika Paris Round Diamond 18K White Gold Orb French Sautoir Drop Necklace
Messika Paris Round Diamond 18K White Gold Orb French Sautoir Drop Necklace

Messika Paris Round Diamond 18K White Gold Orb French Sautoir Drop Necklace

By Messika

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Bulgari BVLGARI BVLGARI Onyx Iconic Disc Triple Motif 18K White Gold Necklace
Bulgari BVLGARI BVLGARI Onyx Iconic Disc Triple Motif 18K White Gold Necklace

Bulgari BVLGARI BVLGARI Onyx Iconic Disc Triple Motif 18K White Gold Necklace

By Bulgari

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Contemporary Link Necklaces

Materials

Onyx, 18k Gold, White Gold

Bulgari Bvlgari B.Zero1 Diamond 18K White Gold Four-Band Ring
Bulgari Bvlgari B.Zero1 Diamond 18K White Gold Four-Band Ring

Bulgari Bvlgari B.Zero1 Diamond 18K White Gold Four-Band Ring

By Bulgari

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Chanel 1990 Veste Jupe FR42 Late 80s Classic Black CC Ensemble UK14 US12
Chanel 1990 Veste Jupe FR42 Late 80s Classic Black CC Ensemble UK14 US12

Chanel 1990 Veste Jupe FR42 Late 80s Classic Black CC Ensemble UK14 US12

By Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld

Located in PARIS, FR

Chanel jacket in skirt suit late 1980, in black wool crepe composed of a jacket with a rounded notched collar closed by a jewel button signed CC, 2 slit pockets and long sleeves clos...

Category

1980s French Jackets

Gucci Flora Vintage Diamond Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold Original Box 20th Century
Gucci Flora Vintage Diamond Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold Original Box 20th Century

Gucci Flora Vintage Diamond Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold Original Box 20th Century

By Gucci

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modern Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Sapphire and Diamond Five-Stone 18K White Gold Engagement Wedding Stacking Ring
Sapphire and Diamond Five-Stone 18K White Gold Engagement Wedding Stacking Ring

Sapphire and Diamond Five-Stone 18K White Gold Engagement Wedding Stacking Ring

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold

Gucci Flora Vintage Diamond Earrings 18K Yellow Gold Original Box Booklets
Gucci Flora Vintage Diamond Earrings 18K Yellow Gold Original Box Booklets

Gucci Flora Vintage Diamond Earrings 18K Yellow Gold Original Box Booklets

By Gucci

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modern Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique c1915 Rolex W&D 9K 375 Rose Gold 28mm Hinged Round Case Ladies' Watch
Antique c1915 Rolex W&D 9K 375 Rose Gold 28mm Hinged Round Case Ladies' Watch

Antique c1915 Rolex W&D 9K 375 Rose Gold 28mm Hinged Round Case Ladies' Watch

By Rolex

Located in MELBOURNE, AU

This sophisticated ladies’ timepiece is an antique Rolex watch from circa 1915, yet it’s in beautiful original condition & in great working order This exquisite timepiece feature...

Category

Vintage 1910s Swiss Edwardian Wrist Watches

Materials

Rose Gold

Mid-Century Emerald Diamond Chandelier Cocktail Earrings Platinum Portugal 1960s
Mid-Century Emerald Diamond Chandelier Cocktail Earrings Platinum Portugal 1960s

Mid-Century Emerald Diamond Chandelier Cocktail Earrings Platinum Portugal 1960s

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Vintage 1960s Portuguese Modern Chandelier Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, White Gold, Platinum

Antique 17th-18th Century Diamond Laça Bow Cross Pendant Brooch Portuguese Gold
Antique 17th-18th Century Diamond Laça Bow Cross Pendant Brooch Portuguese Gold

Antique 17th-18th Century Diamond Laça Bow Cross Pendant Brooch Portuguese Gold

Located in Lisbon, PT

DETAILS: • Weight: 13g ••• NOTES All items are presented in very good condition, with surface wear and age-related marks consistent with their antique or vintage nature. All jewels...

Category

Antique Late 17th Century Portuguese Georgian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Tennis Line Bracelet 19.2K White Gold Portuguese
Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Tennis Line Bracelet 19.2K White Gold Portuguese

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Tennis Line Bracelet 19.2K White Gold Portuguese

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century Portuguese Contemporary Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Gold

Tanzanite Heart Diamond GIA Certified 18K White Gold Three Stone Engagement Ring
Tanzanite Heart Diamond GIA Certified 18K White Gold Three Stone Engagement Ring

Tanzanite Heart Diamond GIA Certified 18K White Gold Three Stone Engagement Ring

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Tanzanite, 18k Gold, White Gold

Mid-Century Emerald Diamond Three Stone Ring Platinum Portuguese 1950s-1960s
Mid-Century Emerald Diamond Three Stone Ring Platinum Portuguese 1950s-1960s

Mid-Century Emerald Diamond Three Stone Ring Platinum Portuguese 1950s-1960s

Located in Lisbon, PT

DETAILS: • Lisbon (Portugal) hallmarks for platinum and gem-set jewelry; maker’s mark • Finger size: EU 51.5 (resizable) • Weight: 7.5g ••• NOTES All items are presented in very g...

Category

Mid-20th Century Portuguese Modern Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Platinum

Rota & Rota Brown Diamond Rose Flower Cocktail Ring 18K Pink Blackened Gold
Rota & Rota Brown Diamond Rose Flower Cocktail Ring 18K Pink Blackened Gold

Rota & Rota Brown Diamond Rose Flower Cocktail Ring 18K Pink Blackened Gold

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Brown Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Boucheron Paris Diamond Powder Box Poudrier 18K Rose Gold French Vintage 1940s
Boucheron Paris Diamond Powder Box Poudrier 18K Rose Gold French Vintage 1940s

Boucheron Paris Diamond Powder Box Poudrier 18K Rose Gold French Vintage 1940s

By Boucheron

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Vintage 1940s French Art Deco Boxes and Cases

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Bulgari Bvlgari Monologo Pave Diamond Wide Band Ring 18K White Gold Italian
Bulgari Bvlgari Monologo Pave Diamond Wide Band Ring 18K White Gold Italian

Bulgari Bvlgari Monologo Pave Diamond Wide Band Ring 18K White Gold Italian

By Bulgari

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Rota & Rota Brown Diamond Rose Flower 18K Pink Blackened Gold Cocktail Earrings
Rota & Rota Brown Diamond Rose Flower 18K Pink Blackened Gold Cocktail Earrings

Rota & Rota Brown Diamond Rose Flower 18K Pink Blackened Gold Cocktail Earrings

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Brown Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Mid-Century Turquoise Ruby Diamond Clip Earrings in the Style of VCA 1950s-1960s
Mid-Century Turquoise Ruby Diamond Clip Earrings in the Style of VCA 1950s-1960s

Mid-Century Turquoise Ruby Diamond Clip Earrings in the Style of VCA 1950s-1960s

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Mid-20th Century French Modern Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

French 20th Century Silver Chain Regional Cross Pendant
French 20th Century Silver Chain Regional Cross Pendant

French 20th Century Silver Chain Regional Cross Pendant

Located in Poitiers, FR

The clasp is a safety hook. Jewel signed H. Teguy. Height of the cross : 7.5 cm approximately, width : 5.4 cm approximately, thickness : 2.3 mm approximately.

Category

Early 20th Century French Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Silver

Antique 19th Century Victorian Colombian Emerald Diamond Silver Gold Tiara
Antique 19th Century Victorian Colombian Emerald Diamond Silver Gold Tiara

Antique 19th Century Victorian Colombian Emerald Diamond Silver Gold Tiara

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Antique 19th Century Victorian Vanity Items

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Gold, Silver

Tiffany&Co. Schlumberger Ring in 18ct Gold, Platinum and Blue Enamel with Diamon
Tiffany&Co. Schlumberger Ring in 18ct Gold, Platinum and Blue Enamel with Diamon

Tiffany&Co. Schlumberger Ring in 18ct Gold, Platinum and Blue Enamel with Diamon

By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

Located in Milano, MI

., highly sought after today by collectors and lovers of signed vintage jewels. Main Features: Maker: Tiffany & Co.

Category

Vintage 1970s European Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold, Platinum, Enamel

Aquamarine Diamond 18K White Gold Contemporary Drop Earrings
Aquamarine Diamond 18K White Gold Contemporary Drop Earrings

Aquamarine Diamond 18K White Gold Contemporary Drop Earrings

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Drop Earrings

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Black Colorless Diamond White Enamel Organic Cocktail Ring 18K Rose Gold Italian
Black Colorless Diamond White Enamel Organic Cocktail Ring 18K Rose Gold Italian

Black Colorless Diamond White Enamel Organic Cocktail Ring 18K Rose Gold Italian

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Black Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Enamel

Boucheron Vintage Sapphire Diamond Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold French 1980s-1990s
Boucheron Vintage Sapphire Diamond Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold French 1980s-1990s

Boucheron Vintage Sapphire Diamond Bracelet 18K Yellow Gold French 1980s-1990s

By Boucheron

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century French Modern Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Set, Bracelet and Necklace in 18 K Gold Diamonds
Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Set, Bracelet and Necklace in 18 K Gold Diamonds

Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Set, Bracelet and Necklace in 18 K Gold Diamonds

By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.

Located in Paris, FR

A Platinum Link is paved with Diamonds for about 0.5 to 0.8 Carat on each of the jewels. Signed Tiffany's and Co. and annotated Paloma Picasso Eight security Gold Hallmark: Owl Brace...

Category

Early 2000s American Link Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum

Antique 18th/19th Century Portuguese Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendant Earrings
Antique 18th/19th Century Portuguese Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendant Earrings

Antique 18th/19th Century Portuguese Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Pendant Earrings

Located in Lisbon, PT

All jewels—whether signed or unsigned—are offered as worn, reflecting their history and authenticity.

Category

Antique Early 19th Century Portuguese Georgian Drop Earrings

Materials

Chrysoberyl, Rose Gold, Silver

Vintage Aquamarine Diamond Girandole Earrings Necklace Set 18K White Gold 1990s
Vintage Aquamarine Diamond Girandole Earrings Necklace Set 18K White Gold 1990s

Vintage Aquamarine Diamond Girandole Earrings Necklace Set 18K White Gold 1990s

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Late 20th Century Modern Drop Necklaces

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Belle Epoque Edwardian Style Emerald Diamond Garland Swag Necklace Silver Gold
Belle Epoque Edwardian Style Emerald Diamond Garland Swag Necklace Silver Gold

Belle Epoque Edwardian Style Emerald Diamond Garland Swag Necklace Silver Gold

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Early 20th Century Portuguese Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Art Deco Odeonesque Geometric Diamond Platinum 1930s Cocktail Ring
Art Deco Odeonesque Geometric Diamond Platinum 1930s Cocktail Ring

Art Deco Odeonesque Geometric Diamond Platinum 1930s Cocktail Ring

Located in Lisbon, PT

All antique, period, and vintage jewels — signed or unsigned — are presented as worn.

Category

Vintage 1930s Art Deco Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Art Deco Waltham Watch Circa 1927
Art Deco Waltham Watch Circa 1927

Art Deco Waltham Watch Circa 1927

By Waltham Watch Company

Located in Wailea, HI

Technical Excellence Inside, the watch is powered by a high-grade, manual-wind 15-jewel movement, signed by Waltham USA. With a serial number of 25,850,632, this movement is a testa...

Category

Early 20th Century Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

14k Gold, Gold-filled

Golden Pearl Diamond Hoop Drop Earrings Design by Ella Gafter
Golden Pearl Diamond Hoop Drop Earrings Design by Ella Gafter

Golden Pearl Diamond Hoop Drop Earrings Design by Ella Gafter

By Ella Gafter

Located in New York, NY

Maestro Giuseppe crafted them according to an original design by Ella Gafter. The jewel is signed EG.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Artist Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold

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Signed Jewels For Sale on 1stDibs

Find an expansive variety of signed jewels available on 1stDibs. Frequently made of gold, 18k gold and yellow gold, these items were constructed with great care. Our selection of items includes 6294 vintage examples as well as 1520 contemporary versions. Our inventory is broad and distinctive, with accessories on offer that were made as long ago as the 18th Century to those produced as recently as the 21st Century. Pieces in our collection of signed jewels made by modern jewelers — as well as those associated with contemporary — are very popular. There have been many well-made iterations of these items over the years, but those made by Rolex, Cartier and Omega are often thought to be among the most beautiful. Any of these pieces can lend versatility to your look, but diamond versions, from our inventory of 1561, are particularly popular. Today, if you’re looking for round cut signed jewels and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes brilliant cut and oval cut alternatives. Most of our signed jewels for sale are for women, but there are 2774 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much are Signed Jewels?

On average, signed jewels at 1stDibs sell for $2,730, while they’re typically $11 on the low end and $7,500,000 for the highest priced versions of this item.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.