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Buccellati Jewelry

Italian

In 1919, Mario Buccellati (1891–1965) launched his eponymous jewelry house with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His pieces were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.

A love of tradition set Mario and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family, which is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.

A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati. Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.

One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.

Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example. The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.

In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.

On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati jewelry, including earrings, necklaces, rings and other accessories.

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Period: 1930s
Creator: Buccellati
Buccellati Sapphire and Diamond Ring in Gold and Silver
By Buccellati
Located in Firenze, IT
In gold and silver, with openwork motif depicting vines, embellished in the center with an oval-cut sapphire weighing approximately 1.90 ct, flanked by old-cut diamonds weighing appr...
Category

1930s Italian Art Nouveau Vintage Buccellati Jewelry

Materials

Sapphire, Diamond, Silver, 18k Gold, Gold

1930s Buccellati Diamond Platinum Brooch
By Buccellati
Located in Bay Harbor Islands, FL
1930's Buccellati brooch set with 72 mix cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.2 carats. Signed 'M. Buccellati'. 72.91 mm x 31.08 mm Metal Type: Pla...
Category

1930s Italian Vintage Buccellati Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

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Buccellati jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs.

Find a range of Buccellati jewelry & watches available on 1stDibs. Each of these unique items was designed with extraordinary care, often using gold. While looking for the most stylish antique or vintage Buccellati jewelry to pair with your ensemble, you’ll find that Buccellati diamond jewelry & watches, from our inventory of 129, can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look. We have 296 pieces in this collection as well as a number of other designs by this jeweler. While this collection reflects work that originated over various time periods, most of these items were designed during the 20th century. If you’re looking for additional options, many customers also consider jewelry & watches by Mattioli, Cellini, and FANCS V by Simona Elia. Prices for Buccellati jewelry & watches can differ depending upon gemstone, time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $950 and tops out at $220,000, while pieces like these, on average, can sell for $11,500.
Questions About Buccellati Jewelry
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Buccellati is a high-end jewelry maker, recognizable by its lavish textural designs and innate Italian motifs. Mario Buccellati himself was regarded as ‘The Prince of Goldsmith’, a high-honor in Italian precious metalwork. On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati pieces from some of the world’s top sellers.

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