2000s Roberto Cavalli Lion Animal Print Gold Lame Size Large Racerback Top Shirt

In his debut Appassionata collection in 1996, Italian designer Roberto Coin (b. 1944) made the ruby a core element of his designs. Inspired by ancient Egyptian and Burmese traditions of wearing a ruby against the skin as a talisman of love, joy and protection, Coin set a small ruby on the inside of his necklaces, rings and bracelets. The hidden ruby became Coin’s signature as he launched his brand as a groundbreaking innovator in quality Italian craftsmanship.

Coin’s talent lies in working with precious metals and creating unexpected designs by combining white, rose and yellow gold. Coin was initially a successful hotelier before leaving that career to pursue his passion for jewelry. Although he was born in Venice, Coin chose to set up his studio in Vicenza, Italy. Known as the “City of Gold,” Vicenza is the heart of the Italian gold and jewelry industry, boasting over 700 years of goldsmithing heritage.

Coin was interested in bringing new technology into Italian jewelry manufacturing, such as using machines originally intended to weave metal for car exhaust pipes to spin the gold wires for his jewelry. Coin’s brand produces hundreds of unique and limited-edition jewelry pieces every year and draws inspiration from the great Italian craft traditions as well as art, history and mythology.

Along with the signature ruby, the Appassionata collection’s most enduring legacy is the masterful fabric-like texture of the woven threads of gold. The technique of interlocking gold links that characterizes this series creates a beautiful basket weave that strengthens and elongates each piece’s life, rendering the accessories robust heirlooms. Coin’s other collections continue to offer innovations in design, from Classica Parisienne contributing to the trend for stacking white, rose and yellow gold together to Pois Moi involving square shapes and hand-etched and -carved details.

Find a collection of Roberto Coin rings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Whether they’re adorned with understated floral patterns or colorful prints that draw on the wonders of the animal kingdom, vintage Roberto Cavalli dresses and evening gowns, shirts and skirts — as well as those of the Italian designer's youth-aimed line, Just Cavalli — are unapologetically exuberant. 

All of the seductive garments crafted at Cavalli have long been associated with extravagance and red-carpet sophistication, and the stories behind the luxury fashion house's offerings begin in Central Italy.

Roberto Cavalli (1940–2024) was born in Florence, Tuscany, into an already artistically rich family — his mother was a tailor, and his grandfather, Giuseppe Rossi, was a member of an Italian art movement called Macchiaioli that shared common ground with Impressionist painters. Cavalli was creative at the onset and focused on textiles at the Florence Academy of Art. He garnered some high-profile attention with bold prints on knitwear.

After he patented an experimental and revolutionary process that saw him printing on lightweight leather, Cavalli secured commissions from major fashion houses such as Hermès and Pierre Cardin. He explored integrating handmade ornamentation in his designs and found limitless inspiration in the majestic creatures of the jungle.

In the early 1970s Cavalli unveiled his first namesake collection in Paris and the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti in Florence. He then opened his inaugural boutique in France’s Saint-Tropez in 1972. While the designer’s printed denim offerings were deemed unsophisticated by the day’s couturiers — they looked down upon the material — Cavalli’s form-fitting, sensual cuts, innovative patchwork and obvious dedication to impeccable craftsmanship found admirers in the likes of Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot.

In 1980 Cavalli married former beauty pageant contestant Eva Düringer, who became his trusted business partner. Now a signature of the label, the pair introduced their first sand-blasted jeans in 1994 and later opened boutiques in Venice and elsewhere.

Cavalli’s designs sold all over the world, and the brand’s success helped pave the way for the introduction in 1998 of a line called Just Cavalli that targeted younger consumers and RC Menswear to complement the array of day dresses, shoes, lingerie and coats and outerwear that were offered in his popular boutiques.

In 2005 Cavalli was asked to help reinvigorate Playboy’s iconic bunny costumes and, in 2006, model Kate Moss starred in his spring/summer ad campaign. A year later, Cavalli created an exclusive collection for H&M and designed costuming for Jennifer Lopez concerts as well as the Spice Girls.

Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi was appointed creative consultant in 2020 at the Roberto Cavalli brand, which is now owned by Vision Investments.

Those who have developed a renewed appreciation for 1990s fashion can find vintage Just Cavalli day dresses, jackets, gowns and more on 1stDibs.