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Vintage Italian black wool tailcoat (“smoking”)
$657.06
£479.16
€550
CA$898.85
A$1,005.83
CHF 525.20
MX$12,365.67
NOK 6,625.99
SEK 6,235.02
DKK 4,185.49
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About the Item
Vintage Italian black wool tailcoat (“smoking”) with its original waistcoat, bespoke-made in the 1950s for formal daytime occasions. The tailcoat is cut from dense melton wool with steep peak lapels, a single-button cut-away front and curved tails that finish below the knee (total length 118 cm). Working four-button cuffs, hand-stitched edges and fully hand-padded lapels confirm high-end tailoring. Inside, the body is lined in ivory satin; sleeves are lined in striped viscose twill, a hallmark of mid-century Italian ateliers.
The matching waistcoat—same cloth, same atelier—closes with six black corozo buttons, has two welt pockets at the chest and two at the hip, and finishes in a neat V-point that sits perfectly over formal striped trousers.
What makes it special
• Complete two-piece set (tailcoat + waistcoat) is increasingly rare; most vintage tailcoats have lost the original vest.
• Bespoke Italian construction: hand-padded lapels, hand-sewn buttonholes, pick-stitching throughout.
• Dense melton wool drapes cleanly, resists creasing and outperforms many contemporary blends.
Why the price is fair
Modern bespoke morning suits cost well above $2 000 without a waistcoat; comparable vintage sets in similar condition trade between $350–$600. This example offers superior make and Italian provenance within that range.
Story / provenance
Morning coats evolved from 19th-century riding jackets and became the standard for weddings, Royal Ascot and diplomatic functions. Italian tailors softened the English pattern, adding gentler shoulders and a more defined waist—traits visible here.
Condition
Very good vintage: outer wool is sound with no moth holes; lining clean; all buttons original; a few lint fibres easily brushed away.
Flat measurements (garment closed, laid flat ±1 cm)
Tailcoat
• Shoulder width 49 cm
• Waist 44.5 cm (89 cm circ.)
• Hip 50 cm (100 cm circ.)
• Back length (collar seam to tails) 118 cm
(Chest width not taken; request if required.)
Waistcoat
• Shoulder width 35 cm
• Waist 41 cm (82 cm circ.)
• Hip 42 cm (84 cm circ.)
• Front length 56 cm
These proportions indicate roughly an EU 48 / US 38R; please compare with a well-fitting jacket for best fit.
Key details
Fabric – black melton wool; ivory satin body lining; striped viscose sleeve lining.
Fastenings – black corozo buttons on coat front, cuffs and waistcoat.
A complete 1950s Italian “smoking” set that delivers timeless formality for weddings, daytime receptions or collectors of mid-century tailoring.
- Dimensions:Length: 46.46 in (118 cm)Marked Size: 38 (US)Bust: 17.72 in (45 cm)Waist: 17.52 in (44.5 cm)Hip: 19.69 in (50 cm)
- Style:Mid-Century Modern (Of the Period)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Milano, IT
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU2057226588832
About the Seller
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