Issey Miyake Black Pleated Spiral Dress, 1990s
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Issey Miyake Black Pleated Spiral Dress, 1990s
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: medium (JP)
- Style:avant garde (In the Style Of)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Boca Raton, FL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU7308978461
Issey Miyake
From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- Incredible Rare Issey Miyake Pleats Please Avant Garde Color Block DressBy Issey MiyakeLocated in Boca Raton, FLFuturistic designer Issey Miyake has mastered the technique of creating sculptural works of art in cloth. His innovative pattern cutting and signature use of micro pleating give his garments a unique form. As one of the earliest designers to take on this style of fashion, Miyake is held in high regard as a pioneer of these creative, out-of-this-world fashions. From the Pleats Please line, this rare collector’s dress is done in a pleated fabric in shades of midnight blue, electric purple, red, magenta, cerulean, chartreuse, brown, sage, and neon green. The bright colors have a prismatic quality that makes the dress pop visually, giving the eye something new to appreciate from each angle while elevating this garment to a work of art. The dress begins with a high straight neckline and long sleeves that reach the wrists. The front of the dress is fitted throughout, creating an elegant sheath that falls to a maxi length several inches above the ankles. The body of the dress is done in midnight blue pleats with a section of purple at the bust and a section of neon green near the hem that draws the eye. Thigh-high slits at each side of the dress allow for greater ease of movement while introducing a welcome risqué element that helps balance the volume of material on display. Size: Small Measurements: Bust: 32 inches Waist: 30 inches Length: 50 inches An incredible panel at the back of the dress is made up of a vivid patchwork of color-blocked fabric, adding extra depth and gravitas to this Avant Garde masterpiece. The top of the panel can be folded over the front of the shoulders to create a curving, cocoon-like shawl, or folded together at the back like wings at rest. The panel spans the entire length of the dress and is slightly higher at the neck, adding volume and a delightful sculptural element to the otherwise columnar silhouette of the dress. An unforgettable addition to the discerning fashion lover’s wardrobe, this rare Issey Miyake Pleats Please dress is the perfect choice for a wedding, gala, or special occasion, and is sure to turn heads for many years to come. This vintage Issey Miyake dress...Category
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