2008 Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons Liberty Floral Gold Lace Runway Jacket

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2008 Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons Liberty Floral Gold Lace Runway Jacket

About the Item

Junya Watanabe told The New York Times that fashion for him “is creating something new through clothes,” but for his spring/summer 2008 collection, the Japanese designer looked to the past for inspiration. Among an array of artfully draped blouson dresses appeared a selection of jackets, like this exquisite one, reminiscent of those worn in the late-eighteenth-century habit à la française. Fitted throughout the torso, parting at the hips, trimmed in sumptuous gold lace and flourished with a peplum-like back, it references all the signatures of the regal silhouette. But then the former patternmaker for Rei Kawakubo deconstructs them. He replaces the cravat with a raw undercollar, constructed to peek out from behind a dropped jewel neckline edged with a hand-stitched white ruffled grosgrain ribbon. He swaps out a formal fabric for a sweet crinkled cotton one, embellishing it throughout with rococo dressmaking details, including shirring, gathers and more ruffles—all haphazardly placed to deliberately accentuate the sewer’s part in tailoring the look. Finally, he continues the craftsmanship on the inside, impeccably finishing it with metal hook front closures, an ivory cotton lining, ruched satin cord and a gold chain at the hem to weight the fit. This is a couture-quality find—a one-of-a-kind for the collector who has an appreciation for history, the avant-garde and Watanabe’s genius. Measurements Size: L Bust: 36 inches Waist: 30 inches Hips: Up to 38 inches Sleeve length: 25 inches Length: 27 inches This Junya Watanabe jacket from the spring/summer 2008 collection (look #34) is in excellent condition. Partly crafted by hand, the sewing details and size are unique, making it extra special. It is tailored from an ivory crinkled cotton Liberty print of pink roses. It is trimmed in gold lace and white grosgrain ribbon at the jewel neckline, center placket, hem, split cuffs and four front pockets. It is fitted throughout the torso and flared gently at the hips, with shirring, gathers and ruffles embellishing it all over. Metal hook front closures, a white cotton lining, ruched satin cord and a gold chain at the hem to weight the fit finish the look. High-quality vintage pieces like this are yours to live in and love while increasing in value every year. It’s never too soon to start collecting them, as an investment in your wardrobe—and in yourself.

Designer:
Junya Watanabe
Brand:
Comme des Garçons
Dimensions:
Length: 27 in (68.58 cm)Marked Size: large (NA)Bust: 36 in (91.44 cm)Waist: 30 in (76.2 cm)Hip: 38 in (96.52 cm)
Style:
avant-garde (In the Style Of)
Place of Origin:
Japan
Period:
21st Century
Material Notes:
chain, ribbon, hand finished
Condition:
Excellent.
Seller Location:
Boca Raton, FL
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU7302696113

Shop All Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons is one of the world’s most innovative and trailblazing fashion brands, helmed by its inimitable founder, Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo (b. 1942), who has a penchant for breaking fashion and cultural norms. The only living designer apart from Yves Saint Laurent to have a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Kawakubo has permanently changed fashion with designs that challenge traditional ideas of beauty with a creative and transgressive exuberance.

After studying art and literature at Keio University in Tokyo, Kawakubo worked as a freelance stylist before establishing her own label in 1973, opening her first store in Tokyo in 1975. Kawakubo has since been instrumental in pioneering many concepts now familiar in contemporary fashion. One of her most iconic moves was her introduction of androgynous styles (Comme des Garçons means “like the boys” in French) with asymmetrical, twisted silhouettes that envelope the body. While she told the New York Times that the “basics of clothing lie in men’s fashion,” Kawakubo believes in the concept of humanness in clothes, such as titling her spring 1995 show “Transcending Gender.” In the 1970s, when color-blocking was the norm, Kawakubo stuck to her monochromatic color palette dominated by shades of black with uncompromising dedication, although with evocative and powerful use of red and white.

Comme des Garçons is also known for an often shocking take on fashion. Deconstructed tailoring, violently slashed fabric and sculptural shapes are some themes that run through the brand’s collections, but Kawakubo never explains the meaning of her conceptual pieces, which fall somewhere between art and fashion. Even though the brand has more commercial offshoots like PLAY, known by the iconic heart motif with eyes, the premier men’s line Homme Plus and the multilabel Dover Street Market that opened in 2004, the essence of Comme des Garçons remains Kawakubo’s otherworldly and undefinable creations, which are impossible to ignore.

Find vintage Comme des Garçons shirts, jackets, day dresses and other clothing on 1stDibs.