MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA SS 91 Iconic and Rare Satin Long Jacket
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Width: 17.33 in (44 cm)Length: 35.83 in (91 cm)Marked Size: IT 42 (EU)
- Period:
- Condition:Marks at front side.
- Seller Location:Milano, IT
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3865221137342
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Reggio Emilia, Italy
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.
- ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SS 00 Rare Embroidered RedingoteBy Alexander McQueenLocated in Milano, MILANO2000 Spring Summer rare cutout embroidered redingote from "The Eye" collection by Alexander McQueen. Detachable bell sleeves and split at the back. Braided button closure at the fron...Category
Early 2000s Italian Jackets
- DOLCE & GABBANA FW 92 Rare and Iconic Cotton PlastronBy Dolce & GabbanaLocated in Milano, MILANOFall Winter 1992 rare and iconic cotton plastron by Dolce & Gabbana. Deep opening at sides. Buttons at front. The composition is 100% cotton.Category
1990s Jackets
- MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 01 Caban Leather CoatBy Maison Martin MargielaLocated in Milano, MILANOFall Winter 2001 rare leather caban covered by two pieces of leather by Maison Martin Margiela. Trompe-l'oeil of lapels, pockets, buttons. Strap closure on the inside. Fully lined. T...Category
Early 2000s Jackets
- ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FW 99 Iconic and Rare Striped Redingote JacketBy Alexander McQueenLocated in Milano, MILANOFall Winter 1999 iconic and rare striped redingote jacket from 'N 13' Collection by Alexander McQueen. Anatomical sleeves with lapel. Deep slit at tail. Fully lined with jacquard log...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- JEAN PAUL GAULTIER FW 95 Fake Leather Bustier JacketBy Jean Paul GaultierLocated in Milano, MILANO1995 Fall Winter fake leather bustier jacket by Jean Paul Gaultier. Laser cut ruffles at front with snap button closure. Flared peplum at the bottom. The composition is 55% polyuret...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 02 Iconic and Rare Upcycled Four-Armed TrenchBy Maison Martin MargielaLocated in Milano, MILANOFall Winter 2002 iconic and rare upcycled four-armed trench coat by Maison Martin Margiela. Made from two vintage trenches assembled together. The composition is 100% polyester.Category
Early 2000s Jackets
- Louis Vuitton Logo Limited Edition Travel Hoodie JacketBy Louis VuittonLocated in Fort Lauderdale, FLTailored from a comfortable technical cotton jersey, this iconic button up travel hoodie features a metallic silver reflective Louis Vuitton logo pe...Category
Early 2000s Italian Sport Jackets
- Azzedine Alaïa Vintage S/S 1992 Runway Coral Corset Jacket DocumentedBy Azzedine AlaïaLocated in Berlin, BEIconic documented vintage Azzedine Alaïa Spring Summer 1992 runway corset jacket in the most beautiful rare coral colour! AS seen on the Spring Summer 1992 runway show and worn by model Beverly Peele for Vogue issue...Category
1990s French Blazers
- CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE F/W2019 Rare Runway Snakeskin Print Leather JacketBy CelineLocated in Berlin, BEOutstanding rare leather blouson by Celine from their F/W 2019 collection. This brown snakeskin print jacket is a variation of the runway look 24 - the runway version with epaulettes...Category
2010s Italian Jackets
- SAINT LAURENT By HEDI SLIMANE F/W 2013 Military Style JacketBy Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent, Saint LaurentLocated in Berlin, BESaint Laurent by Hedi Slimane F/W 2013 Military Jacket Brand: Saint Laurent Designer: Hedi Slimane Collection / Year: F/W 2013 Fabric: Wool / Silk Color: Black Size: 46 Incredible military inspired jacket by Saint Laurent. Designed by Hedi Slimane for his Fall Winter 2013 collection. Utilitarian and smart. Made from wool and lined in silk. It features a double-breasted closure with nautical antiqued anchor...Category
2010s French Pea Coats
- RICK OWENS Avant Garde Distressed Leather Biker JacketBy Rick OwensLocated in Berlin, BEClassic avant-garde biker jacket from Rick Owens. A true Rick Owens staple. This avant-garde jacket is made from a soft distressed lamb leather and features a concealed front zip closure, classic Rick Owens long sleeves...Category
2010s Italian Jackets
- SAINT LAURENT By HEDI SLIMANE Rare F/W 2015 Black Glitter BlazerBy Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent, Saint LaurentLocated in Berlin, BESAINT LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE Rare F/W 2015 Black Glitter Blazer Brand: Saint Laurent Designer: Hedi Slimane Collection / Year: F/W 2015 Fabric: Wool / Cupro / Silk Color: Black Siz...Category
2010s French Blazers