Ciner Faux Citrine and Ruby Retro Sterling Silver Brooch
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:Sterling Silver
- Style:Retro
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:1940-1949
- Date of Manufacture:1940
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU461336493
Ciner
What defines “fine” jewelry? For many aficionados, there’s a clear line separating the golden wheat from the gilded chaff. But the handcrafted pieces made by Ciner, a 128-year-old costume jewelry house with a glittering past to rival some of the hautest high jewelers, call into question our notions of what constitutes preciousness.
Quality? Craftsmanship? Painstaking detail? Vintage Ciner earrings, brooches, necklaces and other accessories have them all in spades.
Much of the Ciner’s allure can be traced to its origins in fine jewelry. Emanuel Ciner, an Austrian immigrant, founded the firm in Manhattan in 1892, crafting pieces from the traditional precious gems, gold and platinum. But World War I and the Great Depression caused purse strings to tighten and materials to become scarce. Rather than try to weather the economic downturn, which shuttered many other American jewelers, Ciner made the risky transition from fine jewelry to costume (or fashion) jewelry — virtually uncharted territory.
Emanuel Ciner’s sons, Irwin and Charles, introduced an array of innovations — rubber casting molds, which are especially durable and produce higher quality results, and white metal alloys, which affordably mimic the look of more precious materials — that would become the standard for costume jewelry. During World War II, Ciner’s advanced molding technology was utilized by the U.S. military to produce munitions and tools. This arrangement gave the firm access to the heavily rationed metals it needed for its jewels, enabling it again to endure conditions that drove others into bankruptcy.
The company hit its stride in the 1960s, when its jewelry was sold at some of the country’s toniest stores, even garnering an Andy Warhol–illustrated ad for Bonwit Teller. Its pieces were worn by the era’s brightest stars. In the famous 1957 Joe Shere photo of Sophia Loren sneering at Jayne Mansfield’s décolletage, Mansfield is resplendent in shoulder-grazing Ciner earrings.
Ciner is unique among costume jewelers in that its pieces aren’t imitations — they are coveted in their own right. Elizabeth Taylor, a voracious jewelry collector with a taste for the very finest, was a longtime client. Several suites of Ciner jewels were included in the 2011 Christie’s sale of Taylor’s collection, with one group of rhinestone-studded ear clips and a bracelet fetching $15,600 — more than 100 times the auction estimate. It’s a reminder of a time, not so long ago, when women of great style wore fine and costume jewelry with equal aplomb, often at the same time.
Today, Ciner — now run by Emanuel Ciner’s granddaughter Pat Ciner Hill and great-granddaughter Jean Hill — continues to adhere to the same exacting production specifications. It is the only jewelry house in New York, and likely the United States, that manufactures all its pieces entirely in-house. Each begins with dozens of elements that are cast in rubber molds and then individually filed and polished, plated in a particularly thick layer of 18-karat gold or rhodium, assembled on the bench and painted with enamel or set with stones. Every step is performed by hand by craftsmen, many of whom have been with the company for more than 30 years.
Find vintage Ciner clip-on earrings, choker necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: New York, NY
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Summer Bakelite Wardrobe, 1930sLocated in New York, NYCharming selection of bakelite figural brooches with different treatments and techniques. All hand carved and hail from the Art Deco Period, American.
All Excellent condition.
Tyrolean hat...CategoryEarly 20th Century American Art Deco Brooches
- Summer Lucite Wardrobe, 1930sLocated in New York, NYLucite and Bakelite were materials both treated in novel ways in the art deco period. Charming figurals led the way as evidenced by this trio, all hand carved, stained and painted.Category
Early 20th Century American Art Deco Brooches
Bakelite WardrobeLocated in New York, NYPin and clips selection of Bakelite and lucite from the 1930's-60s.
All excellent condition.
Carved Bakelite Sunflower clips in yellow and red,1930s, 1.75"each: $395 pr.
Clear Bakelite...CategoryEarly 20th Century American Art Deco Brooches
Mazer Art Deco Princess ClipBy MazerLocated in New York, NYMazer Art Deco Asian Princess Clip from the 1930's. Beautiful quality work with faux sapphire, emerald and ruby stones with black enamel highlights set...CategoryVintage 1930s American Art Deco Brooches
MaterialsRhodium
Charming Art Deco Soldier Boy BroochLocated in New York, NYCharming Soldier Boy Brooch from the Art Deco Period. Composed of brown Czech glass beads and and molded gilt metal elements with enamel. He has a ch...CategoryVintage 1930s American Art Deco Brooches
MaterialsGilt Metal
Ombre Poured Glass Floral Brooch, MWLCBy Mark Walsh Leslie ChinLocated in New York, NYA large antique smokey quartz crystal from the 1930's is the focus of this brooch. Poured glass flowers of varying sizes and tones circle the c...Category21st Century and Contemporary French Brooches
MaterialsGilt Metal
- Oxidised Sterling Silver "Void" BroochBy Sarah PulvertaftLocated in TUXEDO PARK, NYThis elegant, striking brooch in very contemporary oxidised sterling silver is designed and made by UK jeweler Sarah Pulvertaft. With its assymetric circle the entire brooch is compr...Category
2010s British Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsSterling Silver
- 18K Gold "Glimmering" BroochBy Sarah PulvertaftLocated in TUXEDO PARK, NYThis elegant, striking brooch in 18K gold is designed and made by UK jeweler Sarah Pulvertaft. Within its simple circle frame the entire brooch is comprised of individual mini cubes....Category
2010s British Contemporary Brooches
Materials18k Gold
- bee brooch / vintage jewelry , vintage broochLocated in Sammu shi, JPmaterial:brass, swarovski glass size:wide 3.8cm This cute bee brooch has a rounded silhouette. The design has no corners, so there is no discomfort ...Category
Vintage 1970s Japanese Artisan Brooches
MaterialsBrass, Gold
- Vintage YVES SAINT LAURENT 70's Flower Brooch/NecklaceBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in PARIS, FRThis original and one-of-a-kind brooch is a vintage piece from Yves Saint Laurent from the 70's. Gold-toned, it is designed as a flower, composed of four petals with wired chains/lin...Category
Vintage 1970s French Brooches
MaterialsRock Crystal, Gold Plate
- Vintage YVES SAINT LAURENT 70's Haute Couture Gold Brooch/NecklaceBy Yves Saint LaurentLocated in PARIS, FRThis singulare vintage piece from YVES SAINT LAURENT is a brooch from the 70's. It is designed as a cross with red and orange-toned stones in resin. A total of six stones are present...Category
Vintage 1970s French Brooches
- Vintage Chanel Camelia brooch in Gold métal from 1993By ChanelLocated in L'ESCALA, ESVintage Chanel Camelia brooch in gold metal centered with a pearly cabochon from 1993. Width 6cm height 5.5cm depth 2.7cm The central cabochon is...Category
1990s European Brooches
MaterialsGilt Metal