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MiriamHaskell 1945 CrystalRoseMontee GiltFiligree Glass Enameled ClimberEarrings

About the Item

Two years before the brand signature first appeared in 1947, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess since 1926 designed these asymmetrical Baroque-style climber earrings that feature hand-painted white-and-ecru enameled sets of foliage, colorless crystal roses-montees, ecru glass beads, and Russian-gold-gilt brass flower petals. In the post-war style of Hess, a cast-filigree branch at the back conceals the hand-wired dense decorative layers, while a single rivet attaches the ear clip. Within a couple years, he soon standardized this type of rear decoration as a gilt round cast plate with more intricate filigree that was not visible from the front, while the rivet was surrounded by the first "Miriam Haskell" signature for earrings (see our other listing for signed mid-century wired-brass fleur-de-lys earrings). A similarly constructed, shaped and painted pale-blue pair of climbers are in the renowned Barbara Berger museum-exhibited costume-jewelry collection, which dated them to 1945. Supported by the museum authentication of the similar pair, we priced these earrings higher than later ones with rear standardized cast-filigree plates and signatures. For more information about early Haskell-Hess jewelry, please see our other listings, such as for another unsigned mid-1940s peacock-colors parure whose earring clips are a match to this pair. For the comfort of the buyer, we will attach new slip-on white pads with transparent sleeves to the clips, which are removable.

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