1920s Jade Necklace with Pearls and Coral

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1920s Jade Necklace with Pearls and Coral

About the Item

I don't even know where to start with this piece so maybe we'll start in the middle. Directly above the carved white and green —moss in snow— carved jadeite jade plaque is a soft green carved jadeite jade pi or bi disk. This disk is suspended from a gilt silver chain which is composed of 5mm (approximately) cylindrical, precious coral beads and 5mm (approximately) off-round to semi-baroque saltwater pearls that have high luster and beautiful prismatic "orient," which is the luxurious spectral play of lights only displayed by the finest pearls. The pearls and coral beads are joined together by 5.6mm (approximately) quatrefoil links, each handmade. Halfway up the necklace we find green enameled bars, crystal beads and very fine soft green jade pi disks. Got all of that? Good. So, this part of the necklace measures approximately 34 inches in length. The third pi disk and the jade carving hang down another 4 ¾ inches. Long, extravagant necklaces such as this, especially necklaces of precious coral, pearls and exotic jade, were all the rage in the 1920s and this necklace is such a fine example. The jadeite pendant is carved and pierced in a floral motif and measures 57.16mm tall by 39.52mm wide. It is the most ravishing near-colorless jade streaked with vivid apple green. This type of coloring is typically referred to as moss-in-snow, which is what it resembles. The carving is very well done and both sides are fully carved and fully beautiful. The fresh vivid green we see streaked through the stone is picked up in the approximately 21mm diameter jade disks. These pi or bi disks (they are called both) have been deployed by the people of China for thousands of years as a design element and the form contains many meanings, from endless life to continuity; from heaven to completion. But even if you don't read any meaning into them, these are fine jadeite jade stones, highly transluscent and well-matched for tone. One of the disks displays exceedingly high transluscency. The necklace may or may not be entirely original. The metal wire through which the enameled green bars and crystal beads are strung appears to be a base metal, while the rest of the chain is silver gilt. Though the bail on the jade plaque would appear to be 9ct gold. t's possible the necklace originally carried a different pendant or perhaps the bail was replaced at some point. No matter, the result is spectacular and dramatic; luxurious and simply. It is such a beautiful, whimsical and organic necklace. I love the palate of soft green and light tomato for the coral. The pearls are cream but they have brilliant gleam and all the colors of the rainbow play across their surface. I sent only the pendant to the gem lab to be certified as natural and untreated jadeite jade from Burma, but I guarantee all the jade to be exactly the same. The pearls are likely cultured but early cultured pearls were allowed to stay in the water longer and more closely resemble natural pearls as a result. The necklace ships with a certificate from Stone Group Labs. I love long necklaces like this. I think they are the perfect length because you, the personal actually wearing the necklace, gets to enjoy it. With a 16" or 18" necklace you only get fleeting glimpses of the necklace when you catch your reflection in a window or mirror. But with this, well, it just drapes down your front and is such a treat for the eyes. I love everything about this necklace, even the use of mixed metals and sweet old crystal beads. There are some nicks on the beads, who cares. This is the perfect necklace to wear around town or around the house. It's one of those. You do not require any compliments to fully enjoy it. There are no marks of any kind but it is almost certainly from China.

Metal:
9k Gold,Silver,Brass,Mixed Metal
Stone:
Coral,Jade,Pearl
Stone Cut:
Bead
Weight:
46.14 g
Dimensions:
Length: 40 in (1,016 mm)
Style:
Art Deco
Place of Origin:
China
Period:
1920-1929
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1920
Condition:
Replacements made: The bail, while old and handmade, may be a replacement. Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Southbury, CT
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU1589110145022