Diamond Tsavorite Gold Sunflower Ring by Alex Soldier. Handmade in NYC. Ltd Ed.

With his exquisite contemporary and Byzantine-style pieces featuring details so fine that a magnifying glass is required to see them, it’s not surprising Alex Soldier is one of the most innovative jewelry designers of the 21st century.

Born Alexander Soldatov in the Russian city of Perm, nestled in the Ural Mountains, Soldier exhibited a childhood talent for woodcraft, painting miniatures and creating sculptures. However, he regarded his artistic interests as nothing more than a hobby and obtained a master’s degree in computer engineering. 

Although he was working as a computer engineer, Soldier’s wife Galina recognized his innate talent for jewelry design and encouraged him to consider a career as a jeweler. In 1981, Galina’s persistence paid off, and Soldier left computer engineering to work as an intern at the most prominent jewelry manufacturing company in the Ural region. His aptitude for artisanal workmanship earned him a promotion as the company’s chief designer in less than a year.

Soldier’s jewelry designs won numerous awards at trade shows throughout Eastern Europe, and his works soon caught the attention of a U.S.-based jewelry manufacturer. In 1991, Soldier moved with his family to the United States, where he worked briefly for the company before striking out on his own. 

Soldier is widely known for his masterful metalwork. With his passion for precision and alluring form, he uses a microscope to design his jewelry — he handcrafts fine details and textures with stainless steel instruments on such pieces as drop earrings, cocktail rings and pendant necklaces made with 18-karat gold, platinum and precious gemstones. Today, in the firm’s New York City workshop, the designer and his small staff create elegant pieces such as the gemstone-encrusted Snail ring and the Sunflower series, which is inspired by Vincent Van Gogh’s paintings.

Soldier’s fine jewelry craftsmanship has earned international accolades. He won the Platinum Passion Award in 1998 from Platinum Guild International and a Spectrum honor from the American Gem Trade Association in 2002. Since 2009, he has created the prize statuette for the Princess Grace Award and the Prince Rainier III Award. Celebrities such as Scarlett Johansson, Gwyneth Paltrow and Elizabeth Hurley have worn Alex Soldier jewelry over the years.

On 1stDibs, find a range of Alex Soldier earrings, rings and necklaces.