Chaumet Dandy Reserve De Marche 18K White Gold Stem Wind Wristwatch 94/100

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Chaumet Dandy Reserve De Marche 18K White Gold Stem Wind Wristwatch 94/100

About the Item

Chaumet Dandy Reserve De Marche 18K White Gold Stem Wind Wristwatch 94/100 ITEM DETAILS Brand: Chaumet Model Name: Dandy Reserve De Marche Model Number: W11188-25A Bezel Material: 18K White Gold Case Material: 18K White Gold Caseback Material: 18K White Gold Movement: Chaumet Cal. CP12V-I, 32 Jewels Functions: Date WIndow, Subdial Clasp Style: Buckle Case to Case (mm): 38 Lug to Lug (mm): 44 Total Length: 9.25" Bracelet/Fob Material: Leather Bracelet/Fob Syle: Strap Total Weight (grams): 83.5 FEATURES Limited edition of 100 pieces Small seconds subdial Power reserve indicator Signed buckle and strap Exhibition case back Chaumet is not a watch maker that I was familiar with until quite recently. It is a Paris based company, which utilizes Swiss movements but in French designed cases and it is a wonderful marriage. It does not take long to get a little bored with the usual cast of high-end watches like Rolex or Patek and sometimes horrified with the products of Hublot and Richard Mille. Arguably, Rolex are immediately recognizable but then so are the myriad of Rolex imposters so, damn. No sir it is not a submariner, it’s a limited-edition number 6543 of nine hundred and thirty thousand Subby by Daniel Wigersbottom, and expensive, 120 bucks at Costco. Patek can be a little stuffy and as much as I like them, they are pricey, and with that often not deserving of their extreme price because the watches are so simple. Stop screaming at me, I know, but really 80 grand for a watch (Nautilus for instance) that just tells time and is not all that inspired. The other side of that, Richard Mille and Hublot take the other extreme. They can be huge money and are certainly interesting to look at but, this is a big but, it is hard to tell time with them and I think that it would not take long to get enough of a Richard Mille that it would end up living most of its life in the drawer (or safety deposit box). Plus, if you are wearing one and fall into a pond, your drowning, they are that heavy. In the same vein I have a Frank Mueller Conquistador (Love Franck Mueller, sorry) which when I got it I thought was delightful. Now it just takes up room in the watch box because it is too heavy and too bloody big to wear every day and honestly, the face that I thought fresh at first has rapidly soured with daily exposure. A shame really. Now this Chaumet is neither too ostentatious, too heavy, too blingy or too ordinary. It strikes a marvelous balance of a 38mm case which is not too big to be comfortable and not too small to go unnoticed. It has a display back that I love because it give us an intimate look into the watch makes art. I always thought the reverse snobbery of Rolex hiding their exquisite movements was, well a bit odd. But then a watch company that advertises the hell out watches that you can’t go out and buy unless you are anointed, is a little odd. The Chaumet has three complications. Enough to display competence but not too many to become confusing or require a ninety page instruction book. (My Breitling Navitimer I have to relearn every time I wear it. Fortunately, the manual is online) One of the complications is a power reserve, which I love. The other a seconds dial and date of course. The face has two colours which are carried into a strap on the original striped watchband and the stripe finds its way onto the watch face in black relief. It has to be almost impossible to be both fresh and tasteful on a watch face, but this is and it is not at all stodgy. It is just plain elegant. Oh, and did I mention that this is one (number 94) of just one hundred watches. Bit more exclusive than a GMT Master II. So, how do you know this is a special watch? Well, mainly by first looking at it and secondly, its presence on my desk coerced me into trolling the entire watch industry, even watches I love dearly, so there is that. Bloody French. Cheers, David Charles Grainger

Creator:
Chaumet
Case Material:
White Gold
Movement:
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
21st Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 2020
Condition:
Light wear to the band.
Seller Location:
Bradford, CA
Reference Number:
Seller: 001591stDibs: LU1991213458332

Shop All Chaumet

Chaumet

Decades before luxury French jewelry maisons such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier were born, Marie-Étienne Nitot (1750–1809) founded the house that became the internationally esteemed Chaumet, which, for centuries, has created timeless necklaces, watches, tiaras and other jewelry and accessories for royalty as well as Hollywood luminaries.

Before opening his own jewelry house, Nitot worked as an apprentice to Ange-Joseph Aubert, court jeweler to Marie Antoinette, and collaborated on pieces for the Queen. In 1780, he left Aubert’s side to open his own maison. Surviving the upheaval of the French Revolution, Nitot soon found lavish commissions with the new people in power. The Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte longed for France to once again be the epicenter of luxury, making himself the fashionable face of the prospering country. Nitot’s commissions for Napoléon began with the papal tiara for Pope Pius VII that included a 414-carat emerald among its thousands of precious stones and the 1804 coronation sword, a decadent piece that featured the 140-carat Regent diamond. The young jewelry house soon became the official jeweler of the Imperial Court, the personal jeweler of Empress Joséphine and one of the most sought-after jewelers in Europe. Chaumet’s work in this era helped popularize the tiara as a status symbol, with ornate pieces designed for Joséphine and Empress Marie-Louise, Napoléon’s second wife.

After Nitot died in 1809, his son, François-Regnault, took over in 1812 and moved the maison into the Place Vendôme, making it the first business to occupy the Parisian center of luxury. By then, Chaumet had included timepieces in its offerings, such as bracelet watches adorned with precious gemstones and equipped with movements made by Breguet (which opened a shop on Place Vendôme in 1933).

After the fall of the Napoléon Empire, successors Jean-Baptiste and Jules Fossin focused more on romantic styles of jewelry that referenced the past and nature, an approach carried on by Valentin and Prosper Morel. It was Joseph Chaumet, director from 1885 to 1928, who gave the maison its illustrious name and brought it into the 20th century with jewelry, accessories and tiaras inspired by the extravagant decor of the Belle Époque. Later, with Joseph’s son, Marcel Chaumet, succeeding him, the house would be featured at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris — from which the term Art Deco derives — and, alongside the likes of Cartier, would be seen as a leader in introducing the flamboyantly geometric designs and high-contrast color pairings of Art Deco jewelry to the global stage.

Chaumet has adapted over the years to meet changing tastes and trends. The house still reigns in the world of luxury jewelry, celebrating its 240th anniversary in 2020. Since 1999, it has been part of the LVMH Group. Its salons and high jewelry workshop continue to operate in the Place Vendôme where gem-setters, polishers and jewelers craft rings, earrings, watches and enduringly popular tiaras.

Find an exquisite range of authentic vintage Chaumet jewelry on 1stDibs.