Fig Leaf Earrings

While Joel Arthur Rosenthal (b. 1943), the founder of JAR, may not be the most prolific jeweler, he is one of the most exclusive. In fact, Rosenthal has no need for prominent signage or window displays at his famed Place Vendôme boutique in Paris because he opens the door only for a select few, including Elle Macpherson, Mary Pinault and Jo Carole Lauder, among others. Rosenthal’s dazzling, sculptural earrings and other jewelry are internationally adored, but his sales tactics are rather unique — he’s notoriously reclusive, shies away from publicity and advertising, and clients are received only after he’s personally approved them. 

The New York City–born designer didn’t plan on a career in the jewelry industry. After graduating from Harvard University with a degree in art history and philosophy, a young Rosenthal moved to Paris, where he opened a needlepoint shop. It was off to a slow start, but after a short time, his unusual color pairings and imaginative stitchwork drew in designers from Hermès and Valentino. Rosenthal was tasked with designing a mount for a gemstone by one of his fashion-industry clientele, and he soon moved beyond textile arts. 

With a newfound interest in fashion and design, Rosenthal briefly returned to his native New York City, where he worked as a salesperson in BVLGARI’s Fifth Avenue store. His fascination with jewels lured him back to Paris in 1977 to open his own jewelry boutique with his partner, a Swiss psychiatrist named Pierre Jeannet.

In his jewelry shop’s early days, Rosenthal, working with largely affordable stones such as coral, set gems in pavé arrangements that recalled the meticulousness of his needlepoint projects. Although he’d become known among fashion’s elite in Paris, the name JAR was still relatively unfamiliar to his soon-to-be international clientele. An acclaimed exhibition at London’s Somerset House in 2002 changed that.

Rosenthal became a global icon following the 400-piece show, in which the lights were dimmed and guests, armed with flashlights, navigated the display cases of shimmering necklaces and rings adorned in sapphires and diamonds. His now-revered Pansy ear clips — comely floral pieces sculpted from aluminum and mounted in gold — were made available for purchase at the show, while pairs were gifted to those who loaned him their jewels for the exhibition.

Like the Pansy earrings, Rosenthal’s pieces are typically inspired by delicate shapes found in nature. One such piece is a ruby-encrusted camellia brooch, which sold in 2012 at a charity auction held at Christie’s for $4.3 million. 

Rosenthal still lives in Paris, where he designs approximately 70 pieces every year.

Browse JAR jewelry today on 1stDibs.

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in. 

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

Crafted to match every color palette, mood or whim, a luxurious pair of vintage clip-on earrings, like any pair of earrings, goes a long way toward completing a look and contributing to the rich form of self-expression that is accessorizing with your favorite jewelry.

Everyone loves a glamorous pair of earrings, but not everyone wants their ears pierced. That’s where a dazzling pair of clip-ons comes in.

Wearing earrings goes back thousands of years, but ear piercing didn’t really become popular in the United States until the 1950s and ’60s. Over the years, jewelry designers have endeavored to create all kinds of clip-on earrings to provide jewelry lovers with a way to express themselves by wearing their favorite adornments without having to undergo the piercing process.

Whether it’s the extravagant diamond clip-on drop earrings or chandelier earrings that flappers donned during Art Deco’s heyday — short hair was in style during the era, so women favored big, bold earrings — or if subdued pearl earrings, platinum earrings (a particularly versatile choice) or a contemporary variety is your thing, clip-on earrings have been made in all kinds of styles over the years.

Clip-on earrings continue to be a comfortable alternative to the traditional iteration, and these accessories are as stylish and adaptable to both casual and formal wear as they’ve ever been.

Explore a vast range of vintage clip-on earrings on 1stDibs now, and find the perfect pair for any ensemble. Our collection includes striking clip-on earrings by David Webb, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and others.