Marco Bicego Stackable Rings

In its refreshing mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship and contemporary fashion sensibility, Marco Bicego’s style is unmistakable in the world of fine jewelry. The designer, whose pieces have been worn by former secretary of state Hillary Clinton and actresses such as Kate Winslet, was born into a family of goldsmiths in Vicenza, Italy. His eponymous brand took shape at his father Giuseppe Bicego’s atelier, where young Marco would spend every summer observing craftsmen and learning to make pieces by hand. He introduced his first collection in 2000.

Each necklace, bracelet, ring and earring is made at Bicego’s headquarters in Northern Italy’s Veneto region. A typical Marco Bicego piece is made of 18-karat gold that is smelted in-house, is unusual in its shape and texture and is designed to be perfect for layering. Some of the atelier’s signature techniques include the integration of gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires and tourmalines faceted with an exclusive rose cut and iconic line engraving on gold. This texturing is done by a bulino tool, an ancient hand-carving tool that leaves hundreds of lines on the metal’s surface, giving the piece a fine, brushed texture and a delicate sheen. The hand-twisted coil technique is another classic, one that lends necklaces and bangles a distinctly handmade, liquid-like appearance.

Marco Bicego jewelry is meant to be lived in — dressed up with a cocktail dress or worn casually with a T-shirt. This versatility, combined with artisanal techniques, makes a Bicego piece inimitable. The founder’s unconventional collections are named after his journeys to cities such as Cairo, Jaipur and Marrakech — he finds inspiration in his travels and, most importantly, in the person who wears his jewelry. “Every jewel is entirely handmade,” Bicego has said. “It is unique, like the woman who wears it.”

Find a collection of Marco Bicego jewelry on 1stDibs.

A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.

Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.

Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.

Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.

During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.

So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic. 

Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.

These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.