Mystery Set Ruby, Diamond Brooch
Located in New York, NY
MYSTERY set ruby, diamond and crystal brooch in 18k yellow gold. Equipped with double pin and
Category
Late 20th Century European Artist Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby
Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Heart Earrings
Located in New York, NY
Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Heart Earrings A pair of 18 karat white gold heart shaped earrings set
Category
Vintage 1980s Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Bombe Cocktail Ring
By Diamond Scene New York
Located in New York, NY
A spectacular piece! Mystery set Rubies swirl with approximately 2 carats of diamonds in this
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby
Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set Ruby Cufflinks And Shirt Studs
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
18k yellow gold 5 pieces mystery-set ruby cufflinks, signed Van Cleef & Arpels. circa the 1990s
Category
1990s American Cufflinks
Materials
Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Platinum Crossover Ring Size 6
Located in Simpsonville, SC
Step into a realm of enchantment and elegance with the Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Platinum
Category
Late 20th Century Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond 18k White Gold Ring Size 6
Located in Simpsonville, SC
The Mystery Set Ruby Diamond 18K White Gold Ring is an extraordinary piece of jewelry that
Category
Late 20th Century Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ‘Lampion’ Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Ear Clips
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
18k yellow gold and adorned with the Maison’s legendary Mystery-Set rubies. Each earring glows with a
Category
Vintage 1980s Hoop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
30 Carat Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Dangle Earrings
By Vivid Diamonds
Located in Miami, FL
mesmerizing array of 700 impeccably invisibly set square cut rubies, each radiating with an intense crimson
Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Dangle Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 'Mystery-Set Ruby Pont Neuf Huggie Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
The Mystery Set represents a significant advancement in jewelry design, patented by Van Cleef
Category
1990s Hoop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Cartier Diabolo Invisible Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Band Ring
By Cartier
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Diamond and Invisible Set Ruby Diabolo Ring by Cartier. With 12 round brilliant cut
Category
1990s French Band Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
18k White Gold Invisible Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Wide Band Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (16) Natural Genuine Ruby - Square French Cut - Invisible Mystery Set - Vivid Deep
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Pair of Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Ear Clips, France
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
the Bellflower. The design cleverly mimics the form of the flower, showcasing a stunning Mystery
Category
1990s Hoop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
18k White Gold 4.09ctw Invisible Mystery Set Ruby Diamond East West Saddle Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (28) Natural Genuine Rubies - Calibre Custom Cut - Invisible Mystery Set - Seep
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Engagement Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Ruby & Diamond Ring by Hammerman Brothers
By Hammerman Brothers
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
two panels of 'mystery' set red rubies. Each of the 52 bead set brilliant cut diamonds are of G/H
Category
20th Century American Modern Dome Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Ruby & Diamond Hat Motif 18K Yellow Gold Convertible Brooch Pin Pendant
Located in Miami, FL
Ruby and diamond brooch in 18K yellow gold featuring mystery-set ruby hat design with diamond
Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Deco Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Ruby and Diamond Flower Brooch Mystery-Invisibly Set Rubies
Located in New York, NY
Ruby and Diamond Flower Brooch This brooch has invisibly set ruby petals and round brilliant-cut
Category
Mid-20th Century French Artist Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
A Van Cleef & Arpels Invisibly-Set Mystery Ruby Diamond Platinum Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
The highly flexible invisibly-set calibré-cut ruby four-row band, with diamond collet trim, mounted
Category
Vintage 1960s French Link Bracelets
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Natural Ruby Mystery Set Flower Earrings with Diamonds in 18k White Gold
Located in La Jolla, CA
Natural Ruby Mystery Set Flower Earrings with Diamonds in 18k White Gold Ruby Mystery Set Earrings
Category
20th Century Drop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Estate 18K Mystery Set Vivid Ruby Princess Diamond Huggie Earrings Omega Backs
$6,900
W 0.4 in L 0.7 in
Estate 18K Mystery Set Vivid Ruby Princess Diamond Huggie Earrings Omega Backs
Located in Winter Springs, FL
. These exceptional huggie earrings are masterfully invisibly set with intensely saturated natural rubies
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Lever-Back Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Gorgeous 18k Gold Mystery Invisible Set Ruby & Diamond Floral Clip On Earrings
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- Numerous Natural Genuine Rubies - Calibre Square Cut - Mystery Invisible Set - Vivid
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Cluster and Ruby Pendant 'Mystery-Set' Ear Clips
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
pendants, elegantly set with vibrant calibré-cut rubies that catch the light beautifully. Topping off the
Category
Vintage 1960s Dangle Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Platinum
Cartier Diabolo Diamond Mystery Invisible Set Ruby K18 Yellow Gold Ring US 6.5
By Cartier
Located in Tokyo, JP
■Item No.: 30490605 ■Brand: Cartier ■Name: Diabolo Diamond Invisible Set Ruby Ring ■Material: 12P
Category
1990s French More Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Set of Two Diamond Sapphire Ruby Flower Brooches, France
Located in New York, NY
A pair of two elegant brooches featuring mystery-set sapphires, rubies and round and baguette
Category
20th Century French Brooches
Materials
White Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
Recent Sales
Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Pendant Earrings
By Amyn The Jeweler
Located in Santa Monica, CA
Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Pendant Earrings in White Gold. Designed by Amyn The Jeweler
Category
20th Century Hong Kong Drop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, White Gold
Invisible set flower ruby earrings
Located in Khet Bang Rak, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
Floral design with Mystery set natural Ruby 20 mm size which are light weight & easy on ears. Made
Category
2010s Thai Artist Stud Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Invisible set butterfly Ruby ring with a diamond
Located in Khet Bang Rak, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
Butterfly ring made using natural hand picked rubies in mystery set making sure they are placed
Category
2010s Thai Arts and Crafts Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Ruby with Heart Shape Diamonds
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Ruby with Heart Shape Diamonds making a floral shape, made in 18
Category
20th Century Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
18K White Gold Diamond and Mystery Set Ruby Flower Earrings
Located in Flushing, NY
18K White Gold Diamond and Mystery Set Ruby Flower Earrings Marked: K18 750 D 0.23 ct R 3.00 ct
Category
20th Century Drop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Octagonal Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Ring, 18 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
An Octagonal Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Ring in 18 Karat Yellow Gold. Ruby Weight: 1.59 carats
Category
20th Century Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond 18k White Gold Pendant Necklace
Located in Simpsonville, SC
The Mystery Set Ruby Diamond 18K White Gold Pendant Necklace is an exquisite piece of jewelry that
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Drop Necklaces
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Bombe Dome Ring in 18k Yellow Gold
Located in La Jolla, CA
Wide Ruby and Diamond Bombe Ring in 18k Yellow Gold Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Bombe Dome Ring
Category
20th Century Unknown Dome Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Gold Fairy Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Adorable! Diamond fairy sitting on a invisible set ruby globe. Fairy's face is a single pear shape
Category
2010s Unknown Artist Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Gold Dome Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
First patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933 this masterful skill seamlessly sets stones without
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Modern Dome Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Gold Dome Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
First patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933 this masterful skill seamlessly sets stones
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Modern Dome Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Leaf Ear Clips
Located in New York, NY
Beautiful mystere set ruby "leaf" design ear clips, 228 french cut rubies set in invisible style
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Artist Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Ring, 18 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
An invisibly set, mystery ring with Rubies with diamonds on the side. Set in 18 Karat Yellow Gold
Category
20th Century Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Caresse d'Éole Fairy Clip. Traditional Mystery Set, Rubies
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This piece is a Van Cleef & Arpels classic because it uses the House’s unique Mystery Set technique
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Invisible Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Cocktail Earring 18 Karat White Gold
Located in New York, NY
Invisible or Mystery set Princess cut Burma Ruby And Diamond Cocktail Earring in 18 K White
Category
Early 20th Century Lever-Back Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Solid 18k White Gold Mystery Set Ruby & Diamond Heart Cocktail Band Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- Numerous Natural Genuine Rubies - Calibre Cut - Mystery Invisible Set - Vivid Red
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Very Large Yellow Gold Mystery Set Ruby & Fancy Yellow Diamond Flower Pin Brooch
Sold
H 2.6 in W 3.2 in
Very Large Yellow Gold Mystery Set Ruby & Fancy Yellow Diamond Flower Pin Brooch
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- Numerous Natural Genuine Rubies - French Cut - Mystery Invisible Set - Deep Red Color
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
Materials
Yellow Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Invisible Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Owl Pin or Pendant 18 Karat White Gold
Located in New York, NY
Invisible or Mystery set Princess cut Burma Ruby And Diamond Owl Pin/ Pendant in 18 K White
Category
Early 20th Century Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Burmese Ruby "Mystery Set" Diamond Gold Earrings
Located in New York, NY
Classic ruby and diamond flower earrings. Five mystery set ruby flower petals centered with 5
Category
2010s Unknown Artist Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Classic Burmese Ruby Diamond Gold Earrings
Located in New York, NY
Classic ruby and diamond flower earrings. Five mystery set ruby flower petals centered with 5
Category
2010s Unknown Artist Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Ruby Diamond Mystery-Set Gold Bracelet
Located in Miami, FL
adorned with a total of 408 mystery-set genuine French square-cut rubies weighing approx. 82.96 cts and
Category
Vintage 1960s Unknown Retro Link Bracelets
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Contemporary 8.70 Carats Ruby Diamond Mystery Set Drop Earrings
Located in Philadelphia, PA
color with VS clarity - terminating as a pear shaped drop. With rubies mystery set fully around
Category
Early 2000s Contemporary Hoop Earrings
Materials
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Mystery Set Rectangular Ruby and Diamond Pendant, 18 Karat White Gold
Located in New York, NY
A Mystery Set Rectangular Ruby and Diamond Pendant in 18K White Gold. Ruby Weight: 4.88 carats
Category
20th Century Pendant Necklaces
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS "Mystery" Set Ring
Located in San Antonio, TX
18 kt. gold ring set with square -cut rubies in mystery setting, flank with square-cut diamonds
Category
French Dome Rings
Materials
Ruby
Rare FRED PARIS Mystery Ruby & Diamond Set Leaf Pin Pendant, France 18kt
By Fred Paris
Located in Miami, FL
brooch lies an exquisite array of 115 custom square step-cut natural rubies, invisibly set to perfection
Category
1990s French Contemporary Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Pair of "Mystery Set" 50 Cr Ruby & Diamond "Fleurettes" Ear Stud Earrings, 18KYG
Located in New York, NY
These stunning cocktail earrings feature an invisible or mystery set of princess cut Burma ruby and
Category
Early 20th Century Lever-Back Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
Impressive invisible " mystery"set design "Burma" ruby bracelet bordered with diamonds The
Category
2010s Unknown Artist Link Bracelets
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Diamonds & Princess Cut Invisible Set Natural Rubies Ring 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
Invisible or Mystery set Princess cut Natural Ruby And Diamond ring in 14 K Yellow Gold
Category
2010s Wedding Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Tie Pin, ca. 1930s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
& Arpels from the 1930s in an oval shape, set with mystery-cut ruby surround and two Asscher cut diamonds
Category
Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Cufflinks
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Ruby Cufflinks And Studs
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
An elegant and timeless pair of square shaped Mystery-Set Ruby Cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels
Category
Vintage 1980s French Cufflinks
Materials
Ruby, 18k Gold
Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch by Schilling
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A ruby and diamond brooch in platinum, by the German jeweller Schilling. The rubies are mystery set
Category
Mid-20th Century German Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Sabbadini Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Flower Brooch Pin
By Sabbadini
Located in Miami, FL
design of bombé calibrated square-cut ruby petals (in invisible mystery setting which was originally
Category
Late 20th Century Italian Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Invisible Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Flower Brooch and Pendant
Located in Zurich, Zollstrasse
. 17.30 grams. It features a floral design of bombé calibrated 220 natural rubies (in invisible mystery
Category
2010s Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Pair of "Mystery Set" Ruby & Diamond "Fleurettes" Ear Pendants Earrings, 18K
Located in New York, NY
Invisible or Mystery set Princess cut Burma Ruby And Diamond Cocktail Earring in 18 K
Category
Early 20th Century Lever-Back Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
VAN CLEEF EN ARPELS Cadenas padlock Bracelet Watch– 18K Gold Mystery Set Rubies
Sold
H 0.53 in W 1.03 in
VAN CLEEF EN ARPELS Cadenas padlock Bracelet Watch– 18K Gold Mystery Set Rubies
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in San Diego, CA
with mystery-set square-cut rubies, a revolutionary technique patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933
Category
Mid-20th Century French Artisan Wrist Watches
Materials
18k Gold
1.87ct Natural Red Ruby & Diamond Mystery Set 18k White Gold Briolette Necklace
Located in Birmingham, GB
stunning shape pendant with beautiful mystery set rubies (a style of setting first developed by French fine
Category
20th Century Pendant Necklaces
Materials
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Mystery Set 2.25 Carat Ruby Diamond 18k Gold Ring Size 6.25
Located in Simpsonville, SC
The Mystery Set 2.25 Carat Ruby Diamond 18k Gold Ring is an extraordinary display of craftsmanship
Category
Late 20th Century Cocktail Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold
Diamonds & Princess Cut Invisible Set Rubies Men's Ring 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
Invisible or Mystery set Princess cut Natural Ruby And Diamond ring in 14 K Yellow Gold
Category
2010s Wedding Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Diamonds & Princess Cut Invisible Set Rubies Men's Ring 18 Karat 2Tone Gold Ring
Located in New York, NY
Mystery set Princess cut Natural Ruby And Diamond ring in 18 K Yellow and white Gold . perfect
Category
2010s Wedding Rings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Gold, 18k Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mystery Set Ruby Earclips
Located in New York City, NY
A superb pair of Mystery- Set VanCleef & Arpels ruby and diamond ear clips. Signed with inventory
Category
American Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, 18k Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mystery Set Ruby Ring
Located in New York City, NY
Rare mystery-set four row ruby platinum ring. Signed with serial numbers. Set on Platinum. Ring
Category
American Cocktail Rings
Van Cleef & Arpels Important Mystery-Set Ruby & Diamond Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Southampton, NY
This fabulous flexible bracelet is mystery-set with diagonal lines of square-cut diamonds within a
Category
1990s French More Bracelets
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
RARE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mystery Ruby Set "Pavot" Pin
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Atlanta, GA
Gaze on this rare and stunning "Pavot" brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. "Mystery set" ruby petals
Category
Vintage 1960s French Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, 18k Gold
Bracelet with diamonds and invisible set Ruby
Located in Khet Bang Rak, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
2.60 carat diamonds are used to make this glamorous Bracelet along with 6 carat of mystery set rubies
Category
2010s Thai Art Deco Modern Bracelets
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Invisible set floral Ruby bracelet with diamond studded triple coil mechanism
Sold
H 1.74 in W 1.07 in D 0.16 in Dm 2.21 in
Invisible set floral Ruby bracelet with diamond studded triple coil mechanism
Located in Khet Bang Rak, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon
Invisible set natural ruby petal on one end & a heart shaped on the other end makes it one of its kind. A
Category
2010s Thai Art Deco Modern Bracelets
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Paderzani Mystery Invisible Set Ruby and Diamond Earrings in Yellow 18K Gold
Located in Lisbon, PT
A pair of Paderzani Mystery Invisible Set Earrings in 18K Yellow Gold, designed as a pair of
Category
Late 20th Century Italian Modern Clip-on Earrings
Materials
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mystery Set Diamond Bangle
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Lakewood, NJ
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mystery Set Diamond Bangle with ruby and emerald flower motif
Category
20th Century French Bangles
Materials
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold
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Mystery Set Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs
Surely you’ll find the exact mystery set ruby you’re seeking on 1stDibs — we’ve got a vast assortment for sale. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Platinum, this item was constructed with great care. Find an antique version now, or shop for 40 vintage or 7 modern creation for a more contemporary example of these cherished accessories. Making the right choice when shopping for a mystery set ruby may mean carefully reviewing examples of this item dating from different eras — you can find an early iteration of this piece from the 20th Century and a newer version made as recently as the 21st Century, both of which have proven very popular over the years. For this particular piece, are consistently popular carat weights. Creating a mystery set ruby has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and Cartier are consistently popular. See these pages for a round cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also square cut cut and baguette cut cut versions available here, too. When shopping for a mystery set ruby, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.
How Much is a Mystery Set Ruby?
The price for a mystery set ruby starts at $3,000 and tops out at $750,000 with these brooches, on average, selling for $19,000.
Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design
This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.
Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.
Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.
Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.
When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.
Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.
More Ways To Browse
Owl Pendant Brooch
Van Cleef Ruby Mystery Setting
Ruby Tie Pins
Vca Pins
Rectangular Ruby Pendant
Van Cleef Tie Pin
Demeter Cameo
Devil Charm
Diamond Badge
Diamond Caduceus Brooch
Diamond Fringe Tiara
Diamond Polar Bear
Diamond Pyramid Bulgari
Diamond Squirrel Brooch
Diana Cameo
Dior Butterfly Earrings
Dior Ladybug
Dolce Gabbana Cross