Tribe Eyes Issey

From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.

Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.

Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.

Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.

Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.

Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.

Clothes are part of an individual’s identity. Personal style is a creative form of self-expression that can make a person feel comfortable and confident. From bell-bottoms and oversize tie-dye dresses to denim jackets and leather pants, the fashion world has changed greatly over the years. Still, many looks never go out of style, and certain vintage and designer suits, outfits and ensembles can prove just as timeless.

Think of heavy, warm sweaters: They immediately evoke a specific sensation of cold, winter mornings, hands cupped around a steaming mug of coffee or tea as fog rolls idly across the Irish moors. The design of Aran wool sweaters dates back generations, yet they remain in vogue today.

Then there are iconic fabrics, such as gingham. Originating in Asia, this fabric is known for its overlapping stripes. It was first imported to Europe in the 17th century and then was woven in 18th-century England — Manchester, specifically — where it was given the checked pattern with which it is associated today. It’s an enduringly popular choice for all types of ensembles, from vintage swimwear and rompers to three-piece suits.

Vintage and designer suits, outfits and ensembles convey style, whether dressing up or down.

From understated jumpsuits and vibrant knits to classy jackets and elegant skirts, a range of fashionable garments for any occasion can be found on 1stDibs. Browse clothing by leading designers like Chanel, Versace, Prada and many more today.